Musclechuck, any one using it?

[Sometimewoodworker]

I've just come across the Musclechuck http://musclechuck.com/technology.html and wondered if anyone is using it and has any comments. It looks a bit pricy but could be worth the money?

[promark747]

It's well made...I bought one for my Festool OF2000 (which is their "Type 2" that fits Festool models), but then changed the design of my router table, so I don't need it.  If you'd like to buy it from me at a savings over retail, please send me a PM.

[Tinker]

I have one circa 1999 or so.  Slight different design but same idea.  I have it mounted on my DW 650 camping on my Woodrat.  Much easier to use and tightens with no problem.  I have never had a bit slip with it.  I thought, when i bought it that there might be some vibration involved; but it runs smoothly.  The only problem I ever had was when first installed, somebody kept sneaking into my shop when I was not looking and would hide the allen key from me.  Once i developed the habit of parking the key right where could see it all the time, that was no longer a problem.
Tinker

[greg mann]

I have the Eliminator version which appears to have the cam mechanism and is probably what Tinker has as well, since they have been sold by the original importer of the WoodRat for some time. I see they now also offer the MuscleChuck so perhaps they feel it is superior. I like the concept for adding length while minimizing loss of rigidity by way of engaging the spindle threads and the internal taper. The chuck becomes pretty monolithic with the spindle. In that way it is similar to the attachment design for cutters that Arunda and other timberframe jig builders use for attaching their cutters to big routers. You get roughly an inch more extension to allow for above the table or below the router base tool changes with a simple Allen wrench but you don't lose rigidity by way of the extension just relying on a half-inch shank, and you are not limited in the ability to bury as much shank of your bit as you like. In fact, in that regard it allows you to 'choke up' on the shank and reach further with a bit and not having a length of unsupported shank sticking out, which is great, as long as the chuck itself doesn't interfere with your work.

[Sometimewoodworker]

, please send me a PM.

PM sent

[Tinker]

Yes Gregg, I think the Eliminator is what I have.  I did get it from the WoodRat importer.  He also sold an extension which I also tried.  That I used just once.  The vibration was downright scary.  I ran the router with that monster for about two seconds and shut machine down and I probably tossed the extension.  But that Eliminator is really great and, as you mention, does add extension to the bit.  Just by design, the bit does not need to be held by as much of its shaft as with the regular collet.  But the Eliminator is held tightly by the router collet.  There is no vibration.  Once I put that on the router, it has never been removed. 

I think the muscle chuck and the Eliminator, either one, might make changing bits in any table where the lock nuts of the collet are resessed below the table surface.  The ratchet on my OF 1400 that is mounted in my CMS has stopped working on the loosening move.  I can loosen by using two wrench method so I am ok for now.  I don't want to send the router in for repairs for now, as I have very little time to do my Christmas presents.  I am thinking of getting another Eliminator (or, since the Router Boss dealer has the Muscle Chuck, will get that) for the 1400 and then i won't care if the ratchet works or not.  It should make bit changing for that situation much simpler, even if the ratchet is working perfectly.

With the WoodRat, it seems one needs an extra set of very long fingers to change bits when using the normal collet.  With the eliminator, it is much easier to hold the bit with one finger while tightening with the allen key.  I have disk problems in my neck which sometimes makes for numb fingers.  My index finger and thumb on left hand. (I happen to be a lefty) I know in advance when it will probably happen.  But when I have to hold the bit while turning the collet tight, I don't think i could do it when the fingers go numb.  With the Eliminator, once I have the bit installed loosely, it doesn't make for any problems in tightening while holding the bit in place with only one finger.  It doesn't make any difference if i can feel the bit or not.  Just a little side info in case anybody else has numb finger problems.
Tinker

[JimH2]

For those who have one is the regular or extended version long enough to be able to change the bit without having to remove the router from the CMS. I can do it with the wrench and lock, but it is a pain to reach under the table to hold the lock and turn the wrench on the top. I'd rather not have the extended due to an increase in what little run out there is, but if that is what works I'm in.

[Tinker]

I tried the Eliminator chuck in my CMS. It was fiddler to insert the allen key to tighten, or loosen, the chuck. I went back to holding the button on the 1400 with one hand (finger) and tightening with wrench method.
Tinker

[JimH2]

I tried the Eliminator chuck in my CMS. It was fiddler to insert the allen key to tighten, or loosen, the chuck. I went back to holding the button on the 1400 with one hand (finger) and tightening with wrench method.
Tinker

Will the plunge not pull up far enough to give you enough clearance to get the Allen key in?

[Tinker]

As I remember, the chuck did not extend far enough that I could get a clear shot with the allen key. I was aPITA to work it. I just use an open end wrench from the top and the button on the router below.

[JimH2]

As I remember, the chuck did not extend far enough that I could get a clear shot with the allen key. I was aPITA to work it. I just use an open end wrench from the top and the button on the router below.

Well that sucks. Fixes one problem but not another.

[Svar]

As I remember, the chuck did not extend far enough that I could get a clear shot with the allen key. I was aPITA to work it.

Could you use a regular L-shaped hex key to reach it? If only half a turn is enough to release the bit L-type should be convenient enough.
From the reviews I read excessive runout is often a problem, it's a hit and miss. There is a reason why all chucks, be it mills or routers have self centering designs. If shank diameter varies slightly from bit to bit (which is usually the case), traditional chuck will still center it. Not so much for the Musclechuck.

[derekcohen]

I do not have a problem using the standard MuscleChuck in my router table (with Router Raizer) ...



It is reachable even when the chuck is not raised completely ..



The router is an Elu 177e, which is the forerunner of the DeWalt 625 ...

Handles removed, and attached to the outfeed of a Hammer K3 on a basic aluminium plate ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Henrik R / Pingvinlakrits]

I have the musclechuck for the OF2200 as well as on a Bosch router. Works a charm and no complaints.

The OF2200 is in the TF (table router) configuration and sort of permanently attached to the CMS unit. The musclechuck really speeds up changing router bits.