Author Topic: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK  (Read 1300 times)

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Offline Dusty.Tools

  • Posts: 124
    • Dusty.Tools
Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« on: July 25, 2019, 02:32 AM »
Hi all,

Does anyone have experience with this MFT template jig:

https://www.cncdesign.co.uk/pro-jig-replacement-perforated-festool-type-mft3lp-top.html

I'm tempted to buy one, if I can convince them to ship to the US. Or I'll pick it up when I visit in August...

Cheers

Ben
@dusty.tools

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Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 703
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2019, 03:02 AM »
I looked at buying one a while back before I bought my PGS. I phoned them to enquire, and chap I spoke to, told me they give perfect results if used properly, and if I wasn’t happy they’d refund my money.

Offline blaszcsj

  • Posts: 456
  • I like building stuff with my hands.
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2019, 08:22 AM »
They won’t ship to USA. I tried a year or so ago.
OF1010 EQ Router | MFT/3 | DF500Q | Carvex 420 | ETS EC 150/3 | CT 36 Auto Clean | TSC55 | LR32 | OF1400 EQ Router | ZOBO Metric Set | CXS Li 2.6 - 90 Limited Edition | Universal Cleaning Set | HKC55 | Centrotec CE-SORT | RO150 FEQ | DTS 400 | RO90 DX | CTSYS | C18 Drill | SysLite KALII | Syslite STL 450 | RAS 115 E | OF2200 EB

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 463
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2019, 08:58 AM »
@Dusty.Tools Just expand your collection and get an LR32 system. It's capable of making perfect tops and so much more.  [popcorn] You know you want it.
@matts.garage

Offline Dusty.Tools

  • Posts: 124
    • Dusty.Tools
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2019, 11:51 AM »
:)

I do have a holey rail...

But I haven’t found methods that I like for ensuring the spacing and position for each row.

I don’t have an MFT too to use as a jig...


——————————
dusty.tools
@dusty.tools

Offline threesixright

  • Posts: 314
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2019, 12:00 PM »
I do have a holey rail...

But I haven’t found methods that I like for ensuring the spacing and position for each row.

I don’t have an MFT too to use as a jig...

I'm in the same boat. Wanna make my own bench with a MFT top. Since I need the LR32, want to use that (and not buy another jig). The LR32 make sure you have the spacing right, just need a good starting point. Just tagging along  [popcorn]

Offline Dusty.Tools

  • Posts: 124
    • Dusty.Tools
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2019, 12:52 PM »
ok so.....

The first row is easy, you measure the offset from the edge you want, clamp the track down and route a hole every third hole on the track.

For the second row, most solutions I can find have relied on using another MFT top to set the position, ensuring it's square with the 1st row and perfectly spaced.

So even with an LR32, I'm still struggling to see how I can go beyond a perfectly spaced single row of holes.

I could put two bench dogs into my first row, put a square up against it, and line up the fence at 90 degrees, line up the first hole and now add a column. But this feels too error prone when you have to repeat it 14 times for the large top I'm making.

A jig like this, or maybe the parf guide solves this because it gives you a more precise way of moving beyond the first row. A jig like this and the LR32 might be the perfect solution of accuracy (from the jig) and speed (from the LR32).

Maybe I'm missing something :)
@dusty.tools

Offline rmhinden

  • Posts: 188
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2019, 01:09 PM »

The first row is easy, you measure the offset from the edge you want, clamp the track down and route a hole every third hole on the track.

For the second row, most solutions I can find have relied on using another MFT top to set the position, ensuring it's square with the 1st row and perfectly spaced.

So even with an LR32, I'm still struggling to see how I can go beyond a perfectly spaced single row of holes.

I have been thinking about this as well.   Once the first row is done, could you use the holes in that row to set the LR32 width with the  parallel side fences for the second and subsequent rows?

Thanks,
Bob



Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 463
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2019, 01:14 PM »
@Dusty.Tools Ben Ben Ben. .allow me to spend more of your money on green tools.  ;D

Start with an oversized top. Square it up however you like. Now along the long side of the top, using an LR32 stop on your holey rail you may reference off one side of the long portion of the top a set distance for your first hole. Bore every 3rd for 96mm spacing. Now move the rail to the opposing long side, using an LR 32 stop to set the rail the same distance. You should now have two parallel rows of holes on 96mm centers along the length of your top. Now to get the holes for your top all you do is take your rail, a pair of rail dogs inserted into one of each of the parallel rows, and do your 96mm centered holes. Lift the rail with rail dogs, insert into the next row, rinse and repeat. You'll get a top of any size you like this way. When you're done you cut off the holes you used for the rail referencing process. The top I made using this method fits perfectly over my MFT/3 top with dogs inserted through both at any location.



« Last Edit: July 26, 2019, 01:20 PM by DynaGlide »
@matts.garage

Offline Bob D.

  • Posts: 1228
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2019, 01:31 PM »

The first row is easy, you measure the offset from the edge you want, clamp the track down and route a hole every third hole on the track.

For the second row, most solutions I can find have relied on using another MFT top to set the position, ensuring it's square with the 1st row and perfectly spaced.

So even with an LR32, I'm still struggling to see how I can go beyond a perfectly spaced single row of holes.

I have been thinking about this as well.   Once the first row is done, could you use the holes in that row to set the LR32 width with the  parallel side fences for the second and subsequent rows?

Thanks,
Bob

Or, after the first row is done, use the rail and 3-4-5 rule to
bore two perpendicular column lines, one at each end.

Then use the rail with some proper size pins to fill in the field.
-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline Dusty.Tools

  • Posts: 124
    • Dusty.Tools
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2019, 01:41 PM »
ok that makes sense.

How would you do it if you couldn't start with an oversized top? I have a few tops already squared up and cut to the right dimensions....

I guess I could just create the two parallel strips and clamp everything down so they are aligned with my top....

Ok I think I'll try it this weekend, if I'm allowed :)
@dusty.tools

Offline Dusty.Tools

  • Posts: 124
    • Dusty.Tools
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2019, 01:42 PM »

The first row is easy, you measure the offset from the edge you want, clamp the track down and route a hole every third hole on the track.

For the second row, most solutions I can find have relied on using another MFT top to set the position, ensuring it's square with the 1st row and perfectly spaced.

So even with an LR32, I'm still struggling to see how I can go beyond a perfectly spaced single row of holes.

I have been thinking about this as well.   Once the first row is done, could you use the holes in that row to set the LR32 width with the  parallel side fences for the second and subsequent rows?

Thanks,
Bob

Or, after the first row is done, use the rail and 3-4-5 rule to
bore two perpendicular column lines, one at each end.

Then use the rail with some proper size pins to fill in the field.

Similar to the Parf system, yes that makes sense.
@dusty.tools

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 463
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2019, 01:43 PM »
ok that makes sense.

How would you do it if you couldn't start with an oversized top? I have a few tops already squared up and cut to the right dimensions....


Can't help you there. Should've talked to me earlier  [tongue]
@matts.garage

Offline Dusty.Tools

  • Posts: 124
    • Dusty.Tools
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #13 on: July 26, 2019, 02:01 PM »
ok that makes sense.

How would you do it if you couldn't start with an oversized top? I have a few tops already squared up and cut to the right dimensions....


Can't help you there. Should've talked to me earlier  [tongue]

As usual :)
@dusty.tools

Offline threesixright

  • Posts: 314
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #14 on: July 26, 2019, 02:24 PM »
@DynaGlide Thanks!

Any change a "rail square" would do the trick (good excuse to buy one [tongue])?



Offline Dusty.Tools

  • Posts: 124
    • Dusty.Tools
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2019, 02:56 PM »
@DynaGlide Thanks!

Any change a "rail square" would do the trick (good excuse to buy one [tongue])?

I have the TSO version but I do find it's not that precise. Meaning on a 3' cut there's some wiggle room at the other end. It's awesome for most cuts, but I think this would throw off an MFT accuracy. I guess I could combine with a parallel guide.....
@dusty.tools

Offline threesixright

  • Posts: 314
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #16 on: July 26, 2019, 03:21 PM »
@DynaGlide Thanks!

Any change a "rail square" would do the trick (good excuse to buy one [tongue])?

I have the TSO version but I do find it's not that precise. Meaning on a 3' cut there's some wiggle room at the other end. It's awesome for most cuts, but I think this would throw off an MFT accuracy. I guess I could combine with a parallel guide.....
Thanks! I was afraid of that  :(

Offline sandy

  • Posts: 91
Re: Pro Jig MFT template from CNC Design in the UK
« Reply #17 on: August 08, 2019, 08:06 AM »
Here is how I've made several MFT tops without starting with an oversized piece of MDF.  First, if you are only interested in making replacement tops for an MFT/3 table, the regular 1400 mm holey rail is all you need.  If you’re interested in making an MFT style top that is considerably longer, the long holey rail for the first row is best, but it’s not required, as you can...

1.  Use your rail and TS55 to create a known straight edge along the short side of your MDF.  Use the TSO Guide Rail Square and your rails, with connectors, to create a perpendicular cut on the long edge of the MDF.  You now have a known right angle corner.

2.  Place a mark at the center of where you want the first hole to be.  On an MFT/3 replacement top the mark would be 71 mm from each edge of the new corner.

3.  Lay the holey rail along the short edge, and space it from the short edge by the distance you determined the first column to be from the edge.  Again, for an MFT/3 replacement top, that would be 71 mm.

4.  Use the LR32, the holey rail, OF1400, and 20 mm router bit to create the first column of holes after you have first placed the LR32 jig on the holey rail with its pin through a rail hole and confirmed that the tip of the 20 mm bit is on the mark for the first hole.  Clamp the rail to the MDF, and plunge through the MDF, preferably with a foam spoilboard under the MDF, and the holes spaced at 96 mm (3 pin holes) apart.

5.  With the router off, plunge the 20 mm bit into one of the holes in the first column that you just created.  Then, slide the holey rail under the LR32 jig, and move the rail so that the pin on the jig goes into one of the holes in the rail.

6.  With the 20 mm bit in a hole and the LR32 jig sitting on the rail with a pin in one of the holes, attach the TSO Guide Rail Square to the holey rail, and slide it against the short, squared end of the MDF, then create as much of the row as the length of your holey rail permits.  Repeat for each hole in the original column.

7.  At this point you will have to extend the rows, but you know how far the first row must be from the long edge, so plunge the 20 mm bit, insert it into one of the holes in the first row, make the pin of the LR32 jig go into a hole in the rail, adjust the far end of the rail to the appropriate distance for the first row, e.g., 71 mm, and create the new holes for the first row.

8.  With the first row complete, follow the steps above to form the remaining columns.

9.  Cut the remaining short and long edges to their final dimensions, if necessary.

Sandy