3D Printed "raft" Removal

[Mike Goetzke]

OMG - I just hit retirement age but having a blast with my $99 Creality Ender 3 Pro printer. I made a couple shop/Festool objects and the raft was pretty easy to remove. Now I'm working on a stand for my huge LEGO Millennium Falcon. The raft is impossible to remove. I am using PLA+ versus PLA if that makes a difference. The bed is heated to 60C.

I tried to do some searching on this and found many conflicting suggestions. Like heat or not heat the bed and something about changing the distance the model is from the raft but I can't see this option in my slicer software.

I just finished a part that I chose "no-raft" as some suggested and it came out good.

Any input appreciated!

Mike

 

[woodwise]

It is the slowest option, but you will have the easiest time removing rafts/supports by using thinner layer heights. IE. .1mm layer height will make supports much easier to remove, but will be agonizingly slow to print. .25mm layer height will be reasonably fast, and stronger in most cases, but supports and rafts will be more difficult to remove.

Not sure what slicing program you use, PrusaSlicer is getting to be very good and offers a few good pre-tuned profiles for most machines.
Hope this helps.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

It is the slowest option, but you will have the easiest time removing rafts/supports by using thinner layer heights. IE. .1mm layer height will make supports much easier to remove, but will be agonizingly slow to print. .25mm layer height will be reasonably fast, and stronger in most cases, but supports and rafts will be more difficult to remove.

Not sure what slicing program you use, PrusaSlicer is getting to be very good and offers a few good pre-tuned profiles for most machines.
Hope this helps.

Thanks - I'm using the software that was included with the printer. looks like it is written by Creality.

 

[huntdupl]

I think the Creality slicer is just a skin version of Cura - I'd just download Cura, may offer more settings. *Download the 'Settings Guide' extension from the Marketplace button (top right) - this will give you pictorial descriptions for 30 settings for rafts [doh].

I've never had a use case requiring a raft, only brims for large footprints or thin objects. I'd avoid them if possible, save time and filament. Try and get your adhesion using Aquanet hairspray or Magigoo. May be worth upgrading your flex plate - (get what you pay for) I love the double-sided Fula Flex, especially if you get into PETG later.

My lessons learned in hope of saving you the same headaches: As an avid FOG user, I'd say you understand in the importance of quality...invest in good filament - I'd recommend Atomic. When all else fails, dry it out in the oven and reprint.

 

[Bob D.]

The PRUSA Slicer works with many popular printers, not just theirs. It's free, give it a whirl.

Keeping your powder dry is crucial as was mentioned.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I tried to do some searching on this and found many conflicting suggestions. Like heat or not heat the bed and something about changing the distance the model is from the raft but I can't see this option in my slicer software.

From this description, it sounds like you are having difficulty removing the part and/or raft from the bed. If that is the case, then the best solution is to allow the bed to cool first. If it's still difficult, set the whole bed plate in the freezer for a few minutes. Also, if necessary, a couple of light taps sideways at the base of the object helps.  Moving forward, make sure the bed is clean (alcohol), especially if the previous owner (or yourself) have ever used glue-stick on the bed.

The only time you should be using a "Raft" is when you have an object with a very small footprint that doesn't normally stick to the bed very well, PLUS would tend to tip over before printing could be finished. (e.g. is really tall and skinny.)

It is more common to use a "Brim", which is just a very thin layer of border material around the object (thinner than the raft). This is used when you also have a small part that doesn't want to stick well, but is otherwise stable (e.g. not tall and skinny).

Skirts are useless, and you can always spot a novice when they show a picture of their print with a skirt around it. But for some reason, it is the default setting on a new Creality/Cura installation. A skirt is an outline around the part, but no where near touching the part....hence, useless.

Most of the time, no additional bed adhesion is needed, except for small footprint parts.

Yes, the Creality slicer is just rebranding of Cura, but I wouldn't be so quick to replace it, because it comes pre-defined for your Creality printer. You can replace it down the road after you have learned the nuances of your printer, but I wouldn't do it just for the sake of doing it.

 

[Bob D.]

"But for some reason, it is the default setting on a new Creality/Cura installation"

PrusaSlicer has the same default setting in their print settings. I don't know why. It's as you stated of little use.
I modify the print settings to change this value to zero and no brim.