80/20 tapping

Published on Nov 3, 2012
Thread Tapping the bore hole in a Series 8 Light 40x40 Aluminium Profile Extrusion using an M8 x 1.25 Spiral Flute Ring Tap Mill. The flute tap is fitted into a cordless drill with a torque clutch. The cuck is struggling to grip the bit at the highest torque so M8 probably the limit for this method unless a more powerful gripping chuck used.

From u tube
 
I literally tap hundreds of holes in aluminum yearly.  The chuck slipage is a good thing as it helps keeping the tap from breaking.  I use WD40 and jog the drill forward and reverse to keep the cutting threads clear.
 
[member=42176]Drich[/member] I use a regular (non-spiral) 5/16" or M8 tap with cutting fluid in 1515 or 4040 profiles, like Ron have tapped hundreds of holes with a cordless drill and never broke a tap. Use lowest speed and take care to hold the drill straight but no more of a science than that.



RMW
 
Thanks for the help. Looking forward to building a work station or a router table. Richard have you posted your plans from your builds? The look very nicely done.
 
Drich said:
Thanks for the help. Looking forward to building a work station or a router table. Richard have you posted your plans from your builds? The look very nicely done.

Nope, still trying to finalize the cart, then I can update the plans to the accurate measurements and add details. Taking longer than hoped, partly because the incredible summer weather keeps distracting me.

In the shop this AM but working on getting the new cnc running. It's comical: using the cnc to make the template... to route out the plate recess... to make a router table top... to use to make the dadoes in the panels for the MFT/SYS cart... Because having the router table will be faster than hand routing.

Having ADD is time consuming but I am never bored.  [doh]

RMW
 
Richard/RMW said:
[member=42176]Drich[/member] I use a regular (non-spiral) 5/16" or M8 tap with cutting fluid in 1515 or 4040 profiles, like Ron have tapped hundreds of holes with a cordless drill and never broke a tap. Use lowest speed and take care to hold the drill straight but no more of a science than that.



RMW


My very first job in construction was working with a plumber.  He taught me a lot about plumbing as well as well pumps (his primary biz).  By about the third day I worked with him, i guess he figured i had learned all i needed to know and he got very thirsty. He went to "get parts" and did not return for the day.  We were installing black pipe and he had shown me how to work the pipe threading machine.  We were working in a very old house and nothing was square or level or plumb.  For the first few years working in the trades, i learned a lot about making things look right against imperfections.  I ran into a situation where i had to make a bend that would not work with any of the fittings he had left with me.  The bend was to close for me to use the bending tool without bending the pipe threads.  a couple of 45's would not fit.  I scratched my head and finally, decided I would angle the treads at one end of the short pice and angle the threads on the end on the long pipe leading to the short pipe.  I figured out a way to set up the threading machine so I could able the threads very slightly.  I had installed the long pipe with the "wobble threads" and was just setting up to cut the short pipe with crooked threads.  The boss came back justt as i was about to make the cut and got all upset.  He told me I could not cut threads that way and would not believe i had already done the threads on the other pipe that way and had already tightened the coupling.  He had had enough liquid refreshments by that time that he really didn't care, so he finally let me finish.  Surprisingly, the whole thing worked just fine and several times on other jobs he used the same method calling the method I had used "Tinker's impossible wobble threads." 
Tinker
 
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