Abrasive grits to use on butcher block type surface

[wannabe2]

Hi,
I have a workbench with a 2 inch thick butcher block top that was dragged over the metal catch that secures a vehicle's hatchback latch. The scratches aren't super deep, but definitely noticeable. I have an RO125 sander.
What progression/types of grits of abrasive should I use?
What about tips on technique? I assume I want to be methodical and take the same amount off the entire top so I don't with a surface that's uneven (i.e. with high spots and low spots).
Thanks in advance.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

When someone says butcherblock, I always hear endgrain, but that is not always what they mean.
Can you clarify?
Either way, your assumption is correct. You need to sand a much larger area than just the scratch, to keep from making a noticeable dip.
To start, endgrain will need a more coarse grit. It is harder to sand, even with softer wood.
Face grain sands easier. Depending on how deep the scratch is, probably around 80? It shouldn't take much with a Rotex, then go to 120, to get rid of the 80 marks. From there it is really about what you are doing with this. Is it going to get finish of some kind? That will determine how far you need to go.
If it is endgrain, you might need to start with 60, but don't go crazy with it. Step to the next grit as quickly as you can, or you can cause yourself more work getting rid of scratches

 

[Packard]

The fact is, once you smooth out to 120 grit, each successive grit goes really fast.  If the scratches have been smoothed out then just a few quick swipe with a random orbital sander is all it takes. Going to 320 or 400 is generally seen as obsessive, but for wipe on or rubbed finishes it feels silky.

But note that some stains like a less processed surface. I’m not sure about butcher block oil finishes.  The wood may become reluctant to absorb the oil. I just don’t know.

 

[wannabe2]

Thanks very much for the replies.

The surface to be sanded isn't what I would consider end grain. The workbench top is a combination of approximately 6" wide and 4" wide lengths (actual dimensions) of lumber that are all 2" thick that were laid side by side and secured along their long edges.  On the front and rear lips of the workbench top there are wood plugs near the ends that run perpendicular to the individual wood pieces, so I'm guessing they're covering the ends of dowels/steel rods(?) that were used to really lock the individual pieces together.
I'm not sure if that changes sanding recommendations, but I thought I'd mention it just in case it does.

Thanks again.

 

[Packard]

From a glue up, staining or finishing perspective, I find that edge grain and face grain behave the same.

End grain is a separate matter.

End grain absorbs stains and finishes faster than the other two and compresses far less under load.

 

[wannabe2]

OK, now I understand. Good graphic.
Thanks Packard