acustic plaster slabs

A

Alan m

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Aug 11, 2010
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i am putting up a ceiling on a job . we are going to be using acustic stabs. that is what the boss is calling it but my research shows a 2" layer of dense fiberglass type insulation under the slab. the stuff he is getting is just like a normal slab but with a pattern of holes drilled in it. there is some kind of mesh on the back .
we will have to cut off 2" off each end to fi where we are putting it. the problem is that the ends will be shown and need to be perfect.
has anyone any advice on  this product or cutting it.
i am thinking ts55 adn old blade. i have read threads on cutting normal slabs with the ts55 adn they say is ok .
i might try it if i can get a blade.

any special blade out there. or anyone with a a worn down (not enough carbide left for  resharpening) ts55 balde that i would buy off you.
would any other blade fit that would be cheaper. i dont want to use my good blade as it will definetly need sharpening then

thanks alan
 
That sounds like acoustical ceiling tile used here except for the mesh on the back.  Is the visible surface soft or hard?  Here guys use a razor knife to cut them.

Peter
 
i havent seen them in person yet. only seen the patern in the book. the rep was out, he said they were 12mm thick to match the normal slab. . the screw holes and joints will get taped and jointed. i presume then that the surface will be hard.
we use stanley knifes on slabs here too but that gives you a broken edge . i need a perfectly smooth edge because it will be suspended down 3" from the normal ceiling and the batton will be back in a few inchs for lights.

i am think that the ts55 would be great. i asked my local dealer today  about a special blade. i think they can be got but he gave me a cheap blade (irwin i think is the brand) ,it should fit but the kerf is 2.6 mm instead of 2.2mm. i will try and find a shim washer to shove over the cheap blade by .2mm or more . i will then leave that blade there for that kind of job.
 
Alan m said:
i am putting up a ceiling on a job . we are going to be using acustic stabs. that is what the boss is calling it but my research shows a 2" layer of dense fiberglass type insulation under the slab. the stuff he is getting is just like a normal slab but with a pattern of holes drilled in it. there is some kind of mesh on the back .
we will have to cut off 2" off each end to fi where we are putting it. the problem is that the ends will be shown and need to be perfect.
has anyone any advice on  this product or cutting it.
i am thinking ts55 adn old blade. i have read threads on cutting normal slabs with the ts55 adn they say is ok .
i might try it if i can get a blade.

any special blade out there. or anyone with a a worn down (not enough carbide left for  resharpening) ts55 balde that i would buy off you.
would any other blade fit that would be cheaper. i dont want to use my good blade as it will definetly need sharpening then

thanks alan
Click to expand...

When we've installed these we have never left cut sides showing... just doesnt look good.

Always just figured out a layout that works without cutting, using different lenghts of battens to figure it out.
Many times if there is a "row" of battens that would need to be cut to fit we just leave them out.

We've cut these just with a long bladed boxknife, and an alminum streight edge. The white "plaster" is so delicate. Always use clean gloves when installing! [big grin]

 
Deansocial said:
Are the slabs flat? Is so cant you use a decorative edge bead?
Click to expand...

you cant really use any beads because it isnt skimed etc at all. just painted.
i would likw to put some kind of j rail(like the pvc soffet rail) around the cut edge
 
j123j said:
Alan m said:
i am putting up a ceiling on a job . we are going to be using acustic stabs. that is what the boss is calling it but my research shows a 2" layer of dense fiberglass type insulation under the slab. the stuff he is getting is just like a normal slab but with a pattern of holes drilled in it. there is some kind of mesh on the back .
we will have to cut off 2" off each end to fi where we are putting it. the problem is that the ends will be shown and need to be perfect.
has anyone any advice on  this product or cutting it.
i am thinking ts55 adn old blade. i have read threads on cutting normal slabs with the ts55 adn they say is ok .
i might try it if i can get a blade.

any special blade out there. or anyone with a a worn down (not enough carbide left for  resharpening) ts55 balde that i would buy off you.
would any other blade fit that would be cheaper. i dont want to use my good blade as it will definetly need sharpening then

thanks alan
Click to expand...

When we've installed these we have never left cut sides showing... just doesnt look good.

Always just figured out a layout that works without cutting, using different lenghts of battens to figure it out.
Many times if there is a "row" of battens that would need to be cut to fit we just leave them out.

We've cut these just with a long bladed boxknife, and an alminum streight edge. The white "plaster" is so delicate. Always use clean gloves when installing! [big grin]
Click to expand...
i dont know much about the material , i havent seen it yet.
the problem is that the slab isnt flush with the ceiling alll around it. it is droped down 3"
the edge will be seen no matter what
i cant see a knife leaving a good enough edge  on these. we dont want to have to sand the edges.
i think the ts55 would work great.
 
im not sure what you are asking

there will be a bulk head all around. the normal slab will come out along the bulkhead ,up the face of the bulkhead, then across the ceiling about 8 ". then the unslabed part of the ceiling will be counterbattoned to bring it down 3". the fancy slab will then be screwed to the counterbattons. there will be a 4" gap between the face of the bulkhead and the fancy slab. the first timber will be 4"inside the edge of the fancy slab(it will be beside the 8" of normal slab).
the edge of the fancy slab will be sticking out 4" and the edge will be seen. lights will be in the slot created shining a glow all around
 
Ok well if it was me I would create an upstand around the edge of the acoustic slab say 50mm high and you will be able to get a fluorescent lights into it then to create the glow. Then you will be able to tape and join that joint and won't have a plaster board edge showing. Maybe I'm wrong but when you cut it with the ts55 will there not be air voids along that edge that wil need to filled in?
 
galwaydude18 said:
Ok well if it was me I would create an upstand around the edge of the acoustic slab say 50mm high and you will be able to get a fluorescent lights into it then to create the glow. Then you will be able to tape and join that joint and won't have a plaster board edge showing. Maybe I'm wrong but when you cut it with the ts55 will there not be air voids along that edge that wil need to filled in?
Click to expand...
there wont be air holes on this slab(hopefully). the pattern is a smooth section,few rows of holes ,smooth bit,more holes,smooth ,holes. down the sheet. i will be cutting in the smooth section
 
Ok but if there are air holes what are you going to do then? You could a j section beed on the edge and mitre the corners. As the j section will be slightly thicker than the slab you will need to feather the bottom edge with gyproc so the j section disappears once painted
 
i know what you mean. might have to do that if there are holes. hopefully there wont be holes. it will have to be taped and jointed anyway so a bit more isnt a problem
 
Well if it's getting taped and jointed just tape and joint the edges of the slab with paper tape and cut off the excess with a Stanley knife. Also if you cut the slab with a knife why not use a surform to tidy up the edge?
 
Alan m said:
i know what you mean. might have to do that if there are holes. hopefully there wont be holes. it will have to be taped and jointed anyway so a bit more isnt a problem
Click to expand...

Hence why i said a decorative bead think its gyp 119 or something like that
 
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