Anyone tackled a paneled archway?

[rnt80]

I have to bid out some trim work that will involve a paneled archway.  I was planning on using some composite, flexible moulding material for the rails and stiles but, without paying for new moulds to be cast, my supplier only has applied moulding available which is something the customer is not interested in.  The opening is approximately 4' wide.  Would I be able to profile some 3/4" mdf with a cope and stick door set and then cut kerfs in the back to make it flexible enough to conform to the archway?  Any other suggestions on how to tackle this?

 

[wow]

I don't know that I am following what you are trying to do? Any chance you can find a picture of something similar so we can see what you are trying to make?

 

[Loren Woirhaye]

If the customer cannot accept frame and panel work with applied mouldings and wants a fully profiled curved cope-and-stick the customer has too much money or is misinformed.  Applied mouldings are traditionally used in some of the finest work precisely because they don't interfere with joinery and and simplify curved applications.  Understandably a plastic moulding is not acceptable  in stain grade work.  Though, I'll add, a faux finisher with graining skills can do a lot to make a client happy with the "wood look" at a cheaper price.

Real wood applied moulding can be steam bent. Domestic hardwoods mostly bend acceptably for a mild arch like this.  Use a backing strap.  Since the curve is the same throughout one setup will do.  You can test it both ways, profiling then bending and bending first then profiling. Presumably you're doing some sort of drop in curved plywood panel.

It's a hassle.  Steam bending is interesting though.  Get paid for your trouble.

###

I'll add that I did a job with serpentine doors where I did a profile on the router table using a pattern bit to shape the curves,  roundover bit for the front and a 1/4" straight bit to excavate the channels.  I suppose I excavated the grooves in the straight stiles with a slot cutter.  I cut the joinery by hand and used  miters at the corners.  It took some time and it looked good.  Minor mismatches in the rounded over profile were smoothed with carving tools.  Cutting the curved grooves with a straight bit turned out well.  There were no reject parts but I was terrified of slipping up the whole time.

 

[WPeters]

We sub out our curved panels and trim to Keim lumber in Berlin Ohio.  They do tremendous work!  It will be more expensive than the methods you described, but it may be worth looking into.  They can match profiles as well.

 

[tjbnwi]

Take a picture of the arch and post it please. I need to see what design arch is being covered.

Tom

 

[Scarpia]

I agree with WPeters above, find a mill firm to do it, especially if your panels are raised. If your panels are to be flat and your rails and stiles can be made out of your composite material, could you fabricate an loose inset mounding with a router and some 3/8" or 1/4" Azek?  I don't know if this is helpful or not but here is a little article about making curved cabinet doors I bookmarked long ago. (It's by the guy that invented clam clamps)  http://www.miterclamp.com/radius/pages/Radiuscabinetphotoessay.htm

 

[tiralie]

I have to bid out some trim work that will involve a paneled archway.

Sounds like fun...

I was planning on using some composite, flexible moulding material for the rails and stiles but, without paying for new moulds to be cast, my supplier only has applied moulding available which is something the customer is not interested in. 

Molding needs to fit your design first. Designing around existing flexible profiles is cost effective but doesn't have the "custom" look your client is hiring you for. If cost is prohibitive, then work back from there. Are you able to find a design/molding profile he likes? This will be the first problem to solve.

The opening is approximately 4' wide. 

What is the rise?

Would I be able to profile some 3/4" mdf with a cope and stick door set and then cut kerfs in the back to make it flexible enough to conform to the archway? 

If it's a very subtle curve maybe, but anything dramatic and you will run into problems where the casing will be difficult to join/match with the arch.

Any other suggestions on how to tackle this?

Like others have mentioned, take your designs to a custom molding or millwork shop to have the curved molding made to your specifications, using stock or custom knifes. You could make your own, but that would mean buying a Williams and Hussey or similar molding machine.
Tim

 

[rnt80]

Thanks for the replies.  I've attached a picture of what the customer wants.  The casing will be outsourced but the panelling I planned on doing myself.  While the panels will be flat the rails and stiles are supposed to have a simple cove detail...that's where I'm running into a problem.  If I could do an applied molding I would just use flexible ply for the rails/stiles and a composite applied moulding.  This is a paint grade job so I don't have to worry about steam bending stock.

 

[tjbnwi]

Seeing as it is paint grade, route the detail on some bendy ply. Make sure you prime it well. Make a form, bring the molding to the job on the form. The owner will think you're a magician.

Tom

 

[curt boyer]

Azek works very well for radius work. We've used it for stiles and rails as well as moulding. Our local lumberyard has heating blankets to make radius bends beyond what can be done cold. You can use bending plywood for the arch as well as the stiles and rails as long as you are using a moulding to cover the plys. You can also rip thin strips of solid wood and laminate them with a form. If you use a router with a circle cutting jig you can swing an arc through 3/4" to make framing ribs. Then glue and staple or nail the bending ply to the ribs. If you map out where the stiles and rails are located you can cover most of the fasteners.
This is going to be a fun project for you!
Cheers
Curt

 

[Loren Woirhaye]

I'll note that applied mouldings do not always come up over the edge like a wainscotting moulding.  An applied moulding can be a simple quarter round.  If you can get a flexible quarter round at  3/8" or so it will look like rail and stile profiles with paint on it.

 

[tiralie]

What kind of opening is there now? Are you re framing or is it an exiting arch?

If I could do an applied molding I would just use flexible ply for the rails/stiles and a composite applied moulding.  This is a paint grade job so I don't have to worry about steam bending stock.

You could also mill the cove in some MDF and rip it to width and bend, glue and pin it to the edge of your flexible plywood. There will be a bit of sanding.

Make a form, bring the molding to the job on the form. The owner will think you're a magician.

Agreed. I would even go further. If the width will fit through the door I would and build the whole arch and side panels off site and ship to the site and slide into the opening. Otherwise I would just create a full arch and two side panels. Just be sure to build the form to fit the casing not the other way around.  Working inside out makes this project easier. Basically a big cabinet without shelves.
Tim