Armor 54"x25" Premium Maple Table Top

Nice, Keep an eye on the lumber liquidator website. Not sure what their new name is now but I picked up some maple butcher block countertops 8'  long on sale for a 350 each. It happens once in awile.
 
I wonder how hard it would be to take those 3/4" holes out to 20mm.
 
Bob D. said:
I wonder how hard it would be to take those 3/4" holes out to 20mm.

That was my thought exactly today Bob...although you're still stuck with a 3" CL to CL measurement. Thus the reason I considered it to be a great assembly/fixturing table.
 
Cheese said:
Bob D. said:
I wonder how hard it would be to take those 3/4" holes out to 20mm.
That was my thought exactly today Bob...

Maybe the UJK reamer would work?  Perhaps a bit more than I’d usually want to cut, although removes the idea of having to re-center the cutter.
 
RustE said:
Maybe the UJK reamer would work?  Perhaps a bit more than I’d usually want to cut, although removes the idea of having to re-center the cutter.

Good thought RustE...but unfortunately, probably not. Reamers are designed to remove a few thousandths of material, like .001"-.003" in metals, so for wood their limit may be around .005". The 3/4" OD needs to be opened up .037", so .0185" per side.  [sad]

However, now that you mention it, it would be relatively easy to manufacture a 3/4" diameter pilot that would attach to a 20 mm cutter. Think of a 20 mm Zobo bit that would accept a 3/4" screw-in pilot.  [big grin]  That could work really well.

Matter of fact, I already have a 20 mm Zobo bit that has a 6 mm screw-in pilot installed. It wouldn't take much to machine a 3/4" pilot version.  [cool]
 
At 1-1/2” thick you’ll need to make the hole on the underside closer to 30mm if you want to fit a Festool clamp thru the hole.
 
Or just do this...

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Bertotti said:
Cheese is that 1080 down the front of your bench? If so how well does it work?

Ya, it works really well for clamping. Clamping is the obvious benefit. It lag screws into the front, 8020 slides over the lags and then when properly placed the lags are tightened.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Here I needed to install a spacer on the edge of the bench to rest the front of the MFS on. A piece of 3/4" thick 1575 profile works well and is easily attached/removed. It acts as both a material stop and a height spacer.

[attachimg=3]
 

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It’s a toilet washer that fits snugly around the clamp and nestles into the 20 mm hole to hold the clamp rod in place before the other part of the clamp is attached.
 
Cheese said:
Bertotti said:
Cheese is that 1080 down the front of your bench? If so how well does it work?

Ya, it works really well for clamping. Clamping is the obvious benefit. It lag screws into the front, 8020 slides over the lags and then when properly placed the lags are tightened.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Here I needed to install a spacer on the edge of the bench to rest the front of the MFS on. A piece of 3/4" thick 1575 profile works well and is easily attached/removed. It acts as both a material stop and a height spacer.

[attachimg=3]

Nice. I have been eyeballing 8020, I don't know why I keep calling it 1080. I have that stuck in my head. But there is a leveling jig I have in mind and I think 8020 would work well for these slabs I got. Which could later be repurposed into the beginnings of a cnc frame. Thank!
 
The 8020 website has a deflection calculator that is very helpful when designing stuff that requires higher stiffness.
 
I have been to 8020net is it the same site? I have missed that calculator. Deflection is the one hold up in my design.
 
I drew up an SVG that would allow anyone with a Shaper Origin to route the holes to be 20mm.  I'd probably route them about 1/2" deep and then use a top-bearing router bit to finish the rest of the thickness.

[attachimg=1]

SVG is in the zip file attached.

 

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