ATF 55 Saw: Track Rail repair

[White]

One of my track saws accidentally jumped off the metal rail track path last week and the blade cut into the side of the rail through the rubber strip before I could let go of the ON switch.    There is a small 1/8" cut into the metal rail about 3" long and 1/8" into the metal and through rubber strip that I want to do a weld repair on.  I think I can weld an aluminum filler into the edge then sand and polish the finish.  I would buy new rubber strip and apply it to the repair.  Can you tell me if the metal rail is 100% aluminum or some kind of alloy?  It makes a difference which type of weld rod I select to do the fill repair.

Has anybody done this before to save the rail?  I really don't want to buy another rail.

 

[White]

[sad]

 

[Bohdan]

Welding is possible but it will destroy the surrounding anodising especially after you sand and polish the finish. I would just replace the rubber strip and the rail will still work perfectly. If the damage still affects your OCD then fill the gap with aluminium solder.

The heat of welding may also warp the rail making it useless.

 

[cblanton42]

                                                        First thing, welcome to the FOG! 
      While this seems like a pure tragedy right now, I wouldn't try to weld it, it's probably going to end up being no big deal,  seriously!!!  If your saw still slides smoothly over the damaged area, then I wouldn't do anything other than maybe replace/repair the damaged strip, (If it doesn't slide, take a file and smooth off the edges of the damaged area until it does).  Then grab a piece of scrap and do a test cut and see if you get any tear out at the damaged area in your wood. 
    I'm betting it's probably not enough damage to leave any signs of it, if so you're good!!!  (Other than the constant reminder when you use the track of seeing the gash you personally installed)!

Good luck!
CB
   

 

[semenza]

  Welcome to the forum!

I agree that welding will possibly cause more damage. I would try just replacing the strip first. Maybe file the cut area smooth if it is not smooth.

Seth

 

[android]

Fill it with some JB Weld if you don't like the gap. Heating it is going to warp it. Then it won't cut straight.

 

[Michael Kellough]

As above, not a big deal, I have far worse on one of my rails and it still works fine.

I would file that tiny hook away but the 2 inches or so of missing splinter guard generally won't be a problem except when cross cutting a piece of plywood that has poor veneer adhesion.