Bandsaw or Smaller Jobsite Table-Saw

[John1102]

I was hoping to find some feedback from forum users on this topic.  I am downsizing my 3HP cabinet saw, since I have a Festool tracksaw TS-55 and newly acquired Kapex miter saw.  I am considering either a jobsite Bosch or Sawstop table saw or a 17" Grizzly G0513X2BF bandsaw that has a 3-second electronic blade brake.

I am wondering how much success Festool users have had using a bandsaw instead of a tablesaw to compliment their work-flow.  I tried this a few years ago with a Laguna 1412 110v model and it didn't work out as well and I was disappointed in that machine.  Things I like about a bandsaw are the decreased noise and dust in my shop environment. Thank you for any-feedback. 

 

[xedos]

What didn't you like about the 1412 ? 

It's a pretty nice machine for what it is.  Can't help but wonder if a bandsaw is what you really need. 

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I guess it all depends on the type of work you’re doing etc. As much as I love and appreciate my band saw, for me, it doesn’t remove the need for a table saw. I have various plunge/track saws but, still use my table saws on a regular basis.
I suppose in a hobbyist or DIY environment, a lot of making do with certain tools is achievable but, not in a professional scenario. At least not for me anyway.

 

[ChuckM]

If you're a turner, you can live without a tablesaw. In fact, I know a talented woodturner, formerly in furniture making, who now uses his tablesaw only as a shop tabletop.

Someone has shown pictures on how one can resaw with a TS55, and of course, most tablesaw users know how to resaw narrower stock, like this:=30 (but I use only one featherboard at the front.)

Some bandsaw users also partially resaw a stock on a tablesaw before finishing it on the bandsaw.

I do own a bandsaw for curve work, most of which can also be handled by my scrollsaw or jigsaw. So between a bandsaw and a tablesaw, as a furniture woodworker, I can live without the former, but not the latter.

Some hand tool aficionados insist that they could have a bandsaw in their shops but not a tablesaw. Initially, I mistakenly thought that they were talking about a foot-pedaled bandsaw.

 

[Dick Mahany]

I down sized from my 3HP Unisaw to a track saw/MFT3 in 2016.  I have a Delta 14" band saw  with 6" riser.  As much as I tried, I just couldn't make that combination work to my satisfaction and purchased a DeWalt 7491RS portable saw since it can handle a full kerf blade and an 8" dado set.

The largest obstacles for my work were in ripping face frames, cabinet door rails and stiles and other long narrow pieces.  The band saw could do it, but left the cut edge needing additional milling to straighten, square and smooth it.  The track saw was too tedious even with the Seneca narrow parallel guides.  The table saw eliminated those obstacles. 

Since I also do a fair amount of turning, I typically use the band saw for processing turning blanks and the blades are different from those that I use for woodworking and cabinetry. That would require a lot of blade changing for the band saw which isn't what I was wanting to do as often as it would require.

Think not twice, but three or four times before parting with your 3HP cabinet saw.  That is the single largest regret I had after downsizing, however I just don't have the space for that full sized saw.  After being without a table saw for a few years, that portable saw has been a wonderful addition.

 

[John1102]

My Laguna 1412 had some quality control issues and I wasn't happy with its ability to use larger width blades (that was my experience) & sold the saw 2 years ago.

I thought I could rip boards on the bandsaw if one edge was already jointed and clean up the cut edge on the planer by running them through on edge, however, a table-saw would be an easier process.  I like using hand-tools and wondered if any Festool users had been successful with that type of workflow---I am a hobbyist and home DIY/remodeler so I don't need production speed. 

 

 

[jeffinsgf]

What's missing from the marketplace is a quality small table saw. I've never found a "portable" table saw that I thought matched a belt driven, cast iron topped table saw for precision and power. The 8" table saw has disappeared. That's what I use in conjunction with my track saw. I have an 8-inch table saw with about 15 inches of rip capacity. It's about 30 years old and has neither bells nor whistles, but it is laser-accurate.

Since getting a track saw in the late 90s I have never felt the need for a bigger table saw, but I would never be without a table saw for processing solid stock...and one I could depend on.

 

[Dick Mahany]

My Laguna 1412 had some quality control issues and I wasn't happy with its ability to use larger width blades (that was my experience) & sold the saw 2 years ago.

The 14" bandsaws are somewhat problematic for wide blades.  My absolute favorite blade was the Laguna Resaw King variable pitch 3/4" carbide tipped blade.  I wound up breaking one in just a few months due to stress fractures from the small diameter wheels.  In addition, it was very difficult to tension the blade properly. During the short time it lasted, it resawed flawlessly and left a beautiful surface that required little sanding.  I routinely sliced 1mm veneers and was happy.

When that blade failed, I contacted Laguna and they sold me a replacement blade at a reduced cost, but that one also failed after only a few months in exactly that same manner. Even though I'm a DIY / hobbyist, if I get another bandsaw, it will be 18" at a minimum for that reason alone.

Here's a pic of the failure.  Sorry for straying from the full topic.
[attachimg=1]

 

[dicktill]

My Laguna 1412 had some quality control issues and I wasn't happy with its ability to use larger width blades (that was my experience) & sold the saw 2 years ago.

The 14" bandsaws are somewhat problematic for wide blades.  My absolute favorite blade was the Laguna Resaw King variable pitch 3/4" carbide tipped blade.  I wound up breaking one in just a few months due to stress fractures from the small diameter wheels.  In addition, it was very difficult to tension the blade properly. During the short time it lasted, it resawed flawlessly and left a beautiful surface that required little sanding.  I routinely sliced 1mm veneers and was happy.

When that blade failed, I contacted Laguna and they sold me a replacement blade at a reduced cost, but that one also failed after only a few months in exactly that same manner. Even though I'm a DIY / hobbyist, if I get another bandsaw, it will be 18" at a minimum for that reason alone.

Here's a pic of the failure.  Sorry for straying from the full topic.
[attachimg=1]

Wow, I had the exact same failure of the exact same blade on my Laguna 1412. The blade was wonderful while it lasted. I don't think though that it is the blade width that is the problem with the slightly smaller wheels, but rather the blade thickness. Hate to imagine what happens on really small wheels, e.g. 8-10".

 

[John1102]

If I keep a cabinet saw I may take your advice (jeffinsgf) and cut the guide rails down to 18-20" rip-capacity to make it more compact as I don't need the extra capacity, and I work out of a smaller single car garage shop so space savings is key for me.  I do agree there is a missing quality belt-driven compact tablesaw on the market-place.

I also had poor luck with the Laguna resaw blade breaking.  If I ever end-up with another bandsaw I will likely look into the Lenox carbide blades.  I guess it's nice to know there are others who have had similar Laguna blade issues.  Thanks for sharing.

 

[John1102]

See page 4 of this OWWM PDF (link included) on a 1950s Atlas advertisement for 10" and 8" compact table-saws.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/15290.pdf

 

[grbmds]

A number of years ago I decided, rather than replacing my tablesaw with a better one, I'd go with a Festool track saw and MFT. It works great, but I still found the need to have a tablesaw for easy rips, etc., so bought a job site saw. I also own a bandsaw. While I have found that I use my bandsaw more than I ever did, I always go back to the job site saw for some cuts, like small piece crosscuts and rips. I think that, because I've always had a table saw, I just feel more comfortable using it for some cuts as opposed to the bandsaw or even the tracksaw with the proper setup. Can you use a bandsaw for the cuts I do on the job site saw? I think so, but I just find it easier to use the tablesaw.

By the way, I am completely satisfied with the Sawstop Jobsite saw I have. Does it give the same cuts and have the same power of a cabinet saw? No, but I have not found anything I work with at this point that it can't handle as long as I use the right saw blade. It's nice to be able to easily fold it up and move it out of the way when I don't need it.

 

[DIY WoodWerx]

A number of years ago I decided, rather than replacing my tablesaw with a better one, I'd go with a Festool track saw and MFT. It works great, but I still found the need to have a tablesaw for easy rips, etc., so bought a job site saw. I also own a bandsaw. While I have found that I use my bandsaw more than I ever did, I always go back to the job site saw for some cuts, like small piece crosscuts and rips. I think that, because I've always had a table saw, I just feel more comfortable using it for some cuts as opposed to the bandsaw or even the tracksaw with the proper setup. Can you use a bandsaw for the cuts I do on the job site saw? I think so, but I just find it easier to use the tablesaw.

By the way, I am completely satisfied with the Sawstop Jobsite saw I have. Does it give the same cuts and have the same power of a cabinet saw? No, but I have not found anything I work with at this point that it can't handle as long as I use the right saw blade. It's nice to be able to easily fold it up and move it out of the way when I don't need it.

I started out the MFT/Track saw route.  Never had a table saw but find that not having one for small face frame rips and edge banding rips takes some rigging with a track saw.  I’ve been looking into a table saw or bandsaw.  Would a bandsaw be good for face frame rips and edge banding rips?

 

[ChuckM]

Some people swear that (at least online) they can do anything with their bandsaws that their old tablesaws could. May be their bandsaws can but my bandsaw could not deliver the precision cuts (mitres or bevels, e.g.) -- nowhere near -- that my cabinet saw does.

If you need to make dado and rabbet cuts often or on small stock, neither a bandsaw nor a track saw would give you an efficient way of doing it.

A tablesaw and a bandsaw can coexist but one doesn't replace the other.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

I'm a serious hobbyist and tried to do without a table saw. At the time I sold my 4-year old Uni with 52" Biese fence. My garage/shop needed space for my new large lathe and I thought I was using my track saw for over 90% of my work...dumb move!

I went through a bench top and portable saw until I found a 1950 Uni that is perfect for my shop. The footprint and table of the older Uni's is smaller than the modern day saws.

I also have a G0513X2 (no break) with a Driftmaster fence and love it especially for re-sawing but it wouldn't replace the work I do at a table saw.

 

[grbmds]

A number of years ago I decided, rather than replacing my tablesaw with a better one, I'd go with a Festool track saw and MFT. It works great, but I still found the need to have a tablesaw for easy rips, etc., so bought a job site saw. I also own a bandsaw. While I have found that I use my bandsaw more than I ever did, I always go back to the job site saw for some cuts, like small piece crosscuts and rips. I think that, because I've always had a table saw, I just feel more comfortable using it for some cuts as opposed to the bandsaw or even the tracksaw with the proper setup. Can you use a bandsaw for the cuts I do on the job site saw? I think so, but I just find it easier to use the tablesaw.

By the way, I am completely satisfied with the Sawstop Jobsite saw I have. Does it give the same cuts and have the same power of a cabinet saw? No, but I have not found anything I work with at this point that it can't handle as long as I use the right saw blade. It's nice to be able to easily fold it up and move it out of the way when I don't need it.

I started out the MFT/Track saw route.  Never had a table saw but find that not having one for small face frame rips and edge banding rips takes some rigging with a track saw.  I’ve been looking into a table saw or bandsaw.  Would a bandsaw be good for face frame rips and edge banding rips?

For what you're doing I wouldn't use a bandsaw. I think a small job site saw (Dewalt, Bosch, Sawstop, etc.) would work well and, in my opinion, better than a bandsaw. Not knowing the length of board you want to rip, it's a little difficult to make a recommendation because I find that my JobSite saw works very well for ripping pieces of wood that are 3' or less in length. Once I get beyond that length, ripping on this saw is a little more difficult at the start and the end of the cut because of the lack of table depth in front and behind the blade. For longer rips, I usually must rig up outfeed support and it's a little trickier to get the piece started straight. The newer Sawstop Jobsite Pros have 7 7/8" table in front of the blade at max blade height (so a little more when ripping the wood thickness you most likely would rip). That would be better for longer pieces. Other than that, I love the saw for work I do and never got the same result with the track saw or bandsaw.

Whether a bandsaw works for you or not depends, to some degree, on your work flow, how much hand work you do, etc. A bandsaw wouldn't give as smooth a cut and generally requires 2 passes over my jointer as opposed to 1 when I rip with a combo blade on the table saw.

 

[xedos]

My Laguna 1412 had some quality control issues and I wasn't happy with its ability to use larger width blades

I think early models did have some QC issues, not surprising given it was a new model from a new manuf. source.  Trouble with larger width blades (especially carbide) isn't the saw's fault.  Mentioned already - 14" saws just aren't designed for wide blades or tall cuts.  I don't care what Laguna's sales Dept, or video marketers tell you.  In addition to the narrow wheel diameter causing issues, these saws just can't overcome the beam strength of carbide blades to tension them properly.  I doubt the Lenox blade would be much better on that saw.  To small wheels and not enough backbone.

I thought I could rip boards on the bandsaw if one edge was already jointed and clean up the cut edge on the planer by running them through on edge

 

You can and successfully if your saw is tuned within an inch of its life and you have the correct blade. Even then , it's not ideal.  I can do the same operation with a Disston rip saw and an old Stanley jointer.  It will be very quiet and satisfying on one level , yet on another level makes me want to quit working with wood.    Joining on a planer is possible with the right jig, but isn't the best process either.  As you've discovered.

What's missing from the marketplace is a quality small table saw. I've never found a "portable" table saw that I thought matched a belt driven, cast iron topped table saw for precision and power.

Might be missing; but not by many people.  Otherwise the void would be filled.  Delta had 8" and smaller saws for decades along with their unisaw.  Fell out of favor in the 60's (?) and ceased production.  INCA sold the venerable 259 for a long time along with other compact woodworking machines.  Ask anyone who's used INCA and they'll tell you it was very robust, accurate and well made. Trouble is not enough people wanted machines like that to keep them in business.    Both can be had in the used market if you're patient.

Given what you describe you want to do and your past experience I don't think a bandsaw will make you happy.  Perhaps an electric hand planer with a jig/ table set up would give you the capability and small footprint you want.  Trouble is they are expensive and difficult to find. I don't know of any currently for sale as new.  One of the portable benchtop 6" jointers from PC, Delta, Grizzly would also be something to look into.  $300ish, decent cut, and easy to store when not used.  More capable than a planer set up.

The Bosch tablesaw is a nice compact model that can store on edge which might appeal to you.  DeWalt has a similar saw, and arguably has a better fence.  This with a portable jointer are likely going to be easier to live with.

 

             

 

[morggan25]

What didn't you like about the 1412 ? 

It's a pretty nice machine for what it is.  Can't help but wonder if a bandsaw is what you really need.

I think that he needs to make it a little bit lower in height. And by the way, if you need some good advises with finishing the wood working here is what I can recommend to you ( website:https://www.wood-turned.com/ ), this resource can give you a lot of useful information about it...

 

[jarbroen]

I'm a little late to the game, but will throw my pennies in the thread.

I currently have a tracksaw and Laguna 14bx - no table saw.
I started out with a $100 Ryobi table saw years ago before I found track saws.  I really hated using it.
It went bye bye after my first TS55.
I actually had the bandsaw before tracksaws.  My wife bought me a lathe a few years ago and that 'necessitated' the bandsaw.
I've done a variety of projects over the last few years and get by with the band saw for some ripping duties and the track saw for others.
If it's sheet goods - tracksaw is a no brainer.  There are some challenges with really narrow rips or small pieces.  Those I can usually overcome with some planning ahead and a couple of tricks.
The bandsaw works really well when I have thick stock for making furniture.  If the piece is really long the table doesn't work well and I need a helper.
I rip with an extra 1/8" or more and gang plane a few boards on edge.  Definitely extra work, but with good results.

A spot where the BS definitely comes up short, and I think it's been mentioned, is bevel cuts.  The BS will do it but you're left with a wavy edge that you can't plane.

Some day I might come up with enough reasons/excuses to get a tablesaw, but for now the BS and tracksaw get the job done.  I just have to live with the trade off in efficiency.

 

[ChuckM]

I have a bandsaw and a tablesaw (TS75 sold due to little use). Resawing is mostly done on the tablesaw unless it is too wide (and unsafe) for which I'll use the bandsaw. Overall, the tablesaw is better in speed as well as in quality (my bandsaw is third-rate).

But grooving is not something a tracksaw or bandsaw can handle efficiently, and setting up a bit and routing is nowhere as quick as doing it on the tablesaw...again my router table is primitive.