Baseboard trim install reading/video recommendations for a 1st timer?

[gearhound]

I'm about to start the install of 5.25" MDF trim with a simple profile in my house and wondering if there's any good reference material you'd recommend me reviewing being my 1st time? I've watched a few videos and haven't came across a good one that goes through the process from start to finish....looking for reference on the best techniques for inside/outside mitering, coping, nailing positions/etc...
Any links to a good primer resource would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Matt

 

[Sparktrician]

Hold the MDF up 1/4" above the finished floor line, just in case there's a leak.  MDF does NOT like water (or other liquids).  The gap can be covered by oak shoe molding. 

 

[woodferret]

Good enough for beginner


Things that I'd do differently.
* Use titebond quick-thick for outside miters.
* Coping back cut I'd use something less aggressive like 10-15 deg.
* If there's any chance of water damage, definitely BIN the back and edges.
* I will sand/remove drywall flareouts at the base of the wall if need be.  Some are pretty awful, especially on the corner beads.
* Have shims handy for the reverse situation of cave-in bottoms.  I've had walls built out 1/8" over the bottom half of the baseboard.  You'll want to shim over the studs on that lower half so you're not canting the baseboard.
* If the wall is horrendously wavy, consider using liquid nails in addition to the brads.  If it waves more than the baseboard can bend, you'll have to float the wall.
* If your house doesn't have flat and level floors, it pays to precut and dry-fit.  Cut a bit overlength, but enough that you can see where the meet-ups lie.  You'll likely have to make hard choices to scribe the bottom here and there.
* Use combo layers of wood filler, drydex, BIN, and bondo for nail holes.  I don't like to use caulk for those as it shrinks and is entirely visible.

I'd also echo Sparktrician's lift of the baseboard off the flooring.  I do 1/8" and shoe molding, but I've BIN'd the entire thing.  If you're not doing shoe molding and going for the modern hairline, definitely BIN.

 

[woodferret]

I also just realized you said 5.25".  If your miter saw doesn't do standing of that height, you'll have to cut lying down and your single or dual bevel will determine which side you want your cope to be on.  Typical profiles, you want the top against the fence so you can slide the back bevel up the bottom.  Just one thing to keep in mind before you start cutting.

I use a 8.5" and the bevel without micro adjust is a PITA since outside corners are never on the 45 stops   If you can borrow a 12", I'd grab that.

 

[Dongar]

I haven't watched it in years but I liked Gary Katz series on trim carpentry. He recently released the series on Utube for free. This is the one on baseboard.  =8s