stvrowe
Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2007
- Messages
- 834
The bathroom remodeling effort for our main bath is complete with the exception of curtains which my wife will make. I am not including pictures of the before because I don't have them and even if I did, it would be too embarrassing to post them given 18 years of wear and tear from my two children.
The bathroom is very long and narrow (approximately 12 ft by 5 ft) and originally had a 7-1/2 ft long vanity with a plastic laminate top. Floors were linoleum and were also 18 years old and showing their age. One of the weaknesses of the original bath was that it felt small given the rather large vanity. Going with two pedestal sinks really opened the space but at the sacrifice of storage. Fortunately, this bath has a rather large linen closet that could be used for storage. I ended up building a set of shelves to go above the water closet so guests will have easier access to towels, washcloths, etc. A towel rod is integral to the shelves.
BEADBOARD
I added 3/8? beadboard around the perimeter. This is the type of beadboard intended to go on ceilings but I chose it since the bead was actually a full half round as opposed to the typical ?? sheets that look like they just have two grooves next to each other. The downside of this approach is that there was not a standard cap or chair molding available locally for 3/8? ply. I made my own by face molding on a shaper with a universal cutterhead. I have had an ATF-55 saw for a number of years and honestly didn?t use it a whole lot since I have a slider and most of my work is done in the shop. The ATF-55 and guide rail was particularly useful for this project. First, I used it to profile fit the inside corners of the beadboard by adjusting the guide rail several times to cut to the line. This yielded extremely tight fitting joints. The second use for the ATF-55 was mitering the joints for the outside corners of the beadboard. The outside corners were a perfect fit (no need for corner bead here). Certainly other methods could be used to achieve the same result but not as easy as the Festool ATF-55.
SHELF UNIT
The shelf unit was made of soft maple with the back from leftover beadboard. I constructed this with the intention of being able to add some raised panel doors to the top portion in the future if I wanted ( in other words, if SWMBO installs too much clutter on the shelves, doors will be added). Shelves, dividers, and stretcher rails were joined with 5mm Dominoes. It is probably overkill, but thirty two 5mm Dominoes hold this puppy together.
The divider spacing between the bottom shelves was sized to allow for rolled towels to be stored. After it was build, SWMBO determined that rolling towels was too hard to they are now folded. She started loading it up as soon as it was hung so I had to driver her out just to take pics.
This is my first project using the LR-32 and the OF-1400 router to drill system holes for the sides. The sides were approximately 9? wide and the LR-32 rail covered the first set of holes I drilled. I quickly discovered the importance of using the same reference edge when using this system after drilling the second row of holes. Yep! ? you guessed it, holes were offset about 16mm and I didn?t have enough material to make a new side. Since this was a painted project, I used some 5mm pre-glued dowel pins by dipping the end of the pin in water and hammering them in place. I then cut them off flush and sanded with the ETS 150/3. After finishing, I can?t even tell which side has the mistake. Only time will tell if this telegraphs through.
Curved profiles were made using the PS-300 EQ jigsaw and sanding with the ETS-150/3. I used the OF-1400 router and the guide rail to create stopped rabbets on the sides and stretchers. I screwed the back in place to make it easier to paint in the future.
There are no visible fasteners in this project. I wanted to use a French cleat system to hang this but didn?t want to sacrifice shelf depth. Using a wooden cleat system, I would have lost about ?? to ?? of shelf depth. I ended up using an aluminum cleat system that only requires a ?? recess. The cleat system I used was from Brooklyn Hardware in Portland, OR.
Thanks for looking,
Steve
The bathroom is very long and narrow (approximately 12 ft by 5 ft) and originally had a 7-1/2 ft long vanity with a plastic laminate top. Floors were linoleum and were also 18 years old and showing their age. One of the weaknesses of the original bath was that it felt small given the rather large vanity. Going with two pedestal sinks really opened the space but at the sacrifice of storage. Fortunately, this bath has a rather large linen closet that could be used for storage. I ended up building a set of shelves to go above the water closet so guests will have easier access to towels, washcloths, etc. A towel rod is integral to the shelves.
BEADBOARD
I added 3/8? beadboard around the perimeter. This is the type of beadboard intended to go on ceilings but I chose it since the bead was actually a full half round as opposed to the typical ?? sheets that look like they just have two grooves next to each other. The downside of this approach is that there was not a standard cap or chair molding available locally for 3/8? ply. I made my own by face molding on a shaper with a universal cutterhead. I have had an ATF-55 saw for a number of years and honestly didn?t use it a whole lot since I have a slider and most of my work is done in the shop. The ATF-55 and guide rail was particularly useful for this project. First, I used it to profile fit the inside corners of the beadboard by adjusting the guide rail several times to cut to the line. This yielded extremely tight fitting joints. The second use for the ATF-55 was mitering the joints for the outside corners of the beadboard. The outside corners were a perfect fit (no need for corner bead here). Certainly other methods could be used to achieve the same result but not as easy as the Festool ATF-55.
SHELF UNIT
The shelf unit was made of soft maple with the back from leftover beadboard. I constructed this with the intention of being able to add some raised panel doors to the top portion in the future if I wanted ( in other words, if SWMBO installs too much clutter on the shelves, doors will be added). Shelves, dividers, and stretcher rails were joined with 5mm Dominoes. It is probably overkill, but thirty two 5mm Dominoes hold this puppy together.
The divider spacing between the bottom shelves was sized to allow for rolled towels to be stored. After it was build, SWMBO determined that rolling towels was too hard to they are now folded. She started loading it up as soon as it was hung so I had to driver her out just to take pics.
This is my first project using the LR-32 and the OF-1400 router to drill system holes for the sides. The sides were approximately 9? wide and the LR-32 rail covered the first set of holes I drilled. I quickly discovered the importance of using the same reference edge when using this system after drilling the second row of holes. Yep! ? you guessed it, holes were offset about 16mm and I didn?t have enough material to make a new side. Since this was a painted project, I used some 5mm pre-glued dowel pins by dipping the end of the pin in water and hammering them in place. I then cut them off flush and sanded with the ETS 150/3. After finishing, I can?t even tell which side has the mistake. Only time will tell if this telegraphs through.
Curved profiles were made using the PS-300 EQ jigsaw and sanding with the ETS-150/3. I used the OF-1400 router and the guide rail to create stopped rabbets on the sides and stretchers. I screwed the back in place to make it easier to paint in the future.
There are no visible fasteners in this project. I wanted to use a French cleat system to hang this but didn?t want to sacrifice shelf depth. Using a wooden cleat system, I would have lost about ?? to ?? of shelf depth. I ended up using an aluminum cleat system that only requires a ?? recess. The cleat system I used was from Brooklyn Hardware in Portland, OR.
Thanks for looking,
Steve
. We have used the aluminum cleats for years for dozens of projects, great strength and a narrow profile. We just finished a project that we used them to hang outdoor shutters, shutters can be removed and painted and like you said no visible hardware. With the clips and the dominoes your wife can load that shelf with bricks and it still won't budge!! 
