Beam saw suggestions

[ear3]

I'm working on a table commission that involves large, oval-shaped legs (4" x 5 1/2") similar to these:

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

I don't currently have a tool that would cross cut something that thick to length, so I'm thinking I'll take this opportunity to invest in a beam saw (unless there are other suggestions for how to cut something like this accurately). 

I'm not going Mafell, so it looks like the two main options are the Makita 5402 and the Skilsaw Super Sawsquatch.  It seems that both are comparable in power, so my main need is accuracy and as dead square a cut as can be achieved with a tool like this.

Other than this project, down the road I do have a deck build where this saw would presumably get used to cut 4x4s and 6x6s to length.

There's an online head to head review that seems to favor the Skilsaw, so I am currently leaning in this direction:


Anyone have experience with these saws and/or a marked preference?

 

[demographic]

I've used a HKC55 to accurately cut oak beams 100x220, just do a 50mm deep cut on one side, cut along one edge and flip it over and do the other side.

Unless you desperately just want to buy a beam saw or have a few hundred legs to cut it seems kind of overkill for just a few tables.

 

[Klemm]

Have you considered a millwork shop who already has the capability and farm out this uncommon requirement?

Hans

 

[Michael Kellough]

I’d go with the Skillsaw because of the better base. Big saws like these seldom have really flat bases and if it doesn’t you won’t get a truly square cut. Even if the base is flat the bevel adjustment on these big rough carpentry saws is pretty crude and again, the base is rather flimsy and can twist simply from the weight of the saw.

I’d do as Demographic suggested after getting the stock nicely prepped, square/straight/parallel. At that point sawing from all four sides with a more civilized saw should work well. Better than one risky cut with a wonky saw.

Otherwise, you would likely get better results from a handsaw than a beamsaw.

 

[rst]

A judicious use of a handsaw would definitely be the most cost effective solution, finishing with a hand plane to ensure square.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Handsaw was the first thing that came to mind seeing this post. Not that I want to stop you from buying a powertool, but unless you do these things very often it is a costly and space consuming option.

 

[peter halle]

A mitersaw of any brand using a fence with stops would get you most of the way thru of thru using the flipping method.  If needed a hand say would finish up.  Maybe a low angle plane to finish up but you have shown outstanding skills here and this is definitely in your wheelhouse.

Peter

 

[Bob D.]

I believe Milwaukee just came out with a cordless version.
I seem to remember getting an email from them not long ago announcing it.

 

[Michael Kellough]

A mitersaw of any brand using a fence with stops would get you most of the way thru of thru using the flipping method.  If needed a hand say would finish up.  Maybe a low angle plane to finish up but you have shown outstanding skills here and this is definitely in your wheelhouse.
Peter

This is OT but a little relevant.

I’ve been using the Mafell KSS 40 (very similar but smaller and a little more refined than the Festool HKC 55) and enjoying the ability to take the saw to the work. Especially convenient when the work is heavy or awkward. Way easier than tugging the wood back and forth to suit a miter saw.

Another benefit (also similar to the HK saws) is that it’s actually easier to make very fine angle adjustments than with a miter saw simply because the space between whole degree increments on the scale is about double that on a miter saw angle scale.

 

[Svar]

You already have TS75, HK55, or Kapex. Cut as deep as it goes to establish square kerf and finish with hand saw.

 

[Bob D.]

I believe Milwaukee just came out with a cordless version.
I seem to remember getting an email from them not long ago announcing it.

I was mistaken, I thought it was Milwaukee but it was Skilsaw that came out with a beam saw recently.


Looks like ToolNut has them.
https://www.toolnut.com/power-tools...pt55-11-worm-drive-carpentry-16-chainsaw.html

 

[DeformedTree]

handsaw to get it rough, then rig up a routing plate or similar fixture to finish machine the end off with a router.

 

[Cheese]

I'd check in with your local lumber yards or Home Depot. I know of a half-dozen of them locally that have functioning 14"-16" radial arm saws and they may help you out for a small stipend.

If that's not an option, then I'd go the TS 75 track saw method and cut-rotate and cut again.

 

[Tinker]

[member=37411]ear3[/member] As I recall, a while back you were actually getting into serious use of hand tools. They still do make hand saws. Hand planes to fine tune. I go along with those suggestions.
Tinker

 

[junk731]

Both those saws are weapons but could be rented from a good Rental Supply. The blade is the important, expensive part. Have you considered using a good bandsaw or a 14" Makita compound mitersaw. When I was a landscape contractor, in a previous life, we very accurately cut thousands of 6x6 cedar and pressure treated timbers with the 14" mitersaw for decks and retaining walls.

 

[RJNeal]

I’m in the use the Hkc and hand saw camp.
I also own a 10” skilsaw but with Hkc and track you should be able to connect the perimeter kerfs nicely.
I’m not in the position to store a lot of tools that don’t get used much.
And yes I wouldn’t mine owning a 16”
Rick.

 

[Master Carpenter]

Your asking to use a timber framing saw for fine furniture. I wouldn’t. Look at the tooth count of the available blades. You’ll definitely get tearout at the cutline, taping it will be necessary.

I have experience with the Makita, it’s a two hand saw, it’s nicknamed the Man-kita around here. Getting perfectly accurate crosscuts is going to take some practice.

Like others have mentioned, I’d use a saw I already have and finish with a handsaw. Probably be done in less time than driving to the store and back to buy the bigger saw. If you want precision build a fence and clamp/screw the tracksaw at 90 degrees making a giant miterbox. Plunge and go with the TS75. A stop block on the other side wil guarantee they are all the exact same length.

 

[Sourwould]

You shouldn't have a problem cutting this with a regular skilsaw in two passes.

I have used the old gold makitas, newer makitas and the big worm drives. The old gold makitas are the nicest of the three. All cut pretty rough, pretty slow, and are hard to keep true. Cuts have to start perfectly straight (if you're freehanding), you will not steer one of these saws in the cut. I think it's best to use a guide or do a scoring cut, helps with tear out too.