Bench top planer - what do you use it for?

Kodi Crescent

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Can somebody please help me understand what a bench top planer is used for? 

I understand you can plane boards to the same thickness.  But if you buy boards from somewhere, aren't they already planed for thickness?  This seems like an "essential" tool for woodworking, but I'm just not understanding why. 

Please educate me.
 
I have a bench top planer and use it rarely.  Rarely only because much of my work as a carpenter does not need the material to be exactly the same thickness.

On my first aquarium stand for a client I learned a very valuable lesson.  What you buy is not necessarily always the same thickness.  What would be good enough for carpentry was not good enough for cabinetry.  It was my fault for not checking what I bought and after having to remake the product and eat the materials and the labor, the second one had all of the lumber run thru the thickness planer prior to me even thinking about laying out the cuts.

One hour of planing versus 850 bucks.  An expensive lesson for me on one hand, but in my mind a lesson that will not be forgotten.

Rest assured the next stand was more profitable.

Peter
 
Peter

We use ours (Dewalt) mostly for door veneering projects. To get square stock integrated with beadboard for thickness and reveal. Also for random furniture pieces where we dress out rough stock to prepare for glue ups.

Here is our most recent door veneer, a dutch door modification of a stock hollow core:

[attachimg=#]
 
If you get your lumber from a lumber yard most of them are in "rought" condition.Thickness can vary depending where it comes from.So if you need 3/4" lumber,the lumber yard will get you something like 4/4 then you can bring it home and plane it down to 3/4" or whatever thickness you want.You can have the lumber yard do it for you,but at an extra cost.
Most lumber that you find at Lowes or Home depot will be S4S. Clean cut on all 4 sides and cut down to dimentional lumber.
Also i use mine when i do edge to edge glue up.I get lumber that is a little thicker than 3/4" glue them together then plane them down to 3/4" or whatever thickness i want.Gives me a nice solide surface.
I happen to know someone who works at a lumber yard.So when i need lumber,he usualy gives me 1 straight line,joint and plane down to size i want at no extra cost.Witch it's nice because i can start working right away with my projects.
 
I use my planer all the time even though I buy my lumber surfaced close to final dimension.

I let the wood sit in my workshop for a while then I use my planer to get me closer to final dimension- just a few passes to make sure all the wood is the same thickness. I always finish with a jointer plane and a smoothing plane after this.
 
I use my planer quite a bit.

When you straighten warped wood (and even pre-dimentioned wood can warp) using a jointer or hand planes, you end up getting narrower boards. In order to be able to use them, you end up having to make the other boards for the project match the narrowest board (relative dimensioning). Unless you luck out and get flat, square wood all the time for your projects (near impossible) you end up needing to joint and plane your pieces.

Sometimes I use the planer to make solid wood edging as well. If I have a piece that is close to final dimension but just needs a hair off, the planer is sometimes a better way to go then trying to get the tablesaw to cut 1/16" off narrow pieces.

With the right sled you can also use a planer as a jointer for wide boards like this:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=5245

-Jim
 
Peter Halle said:
What you buy is not necessarily always the same thickness.  What would be good enough for carpentry was not good enough for cabinetry.

I'm going to repeat Peter's remarks, because that burned me, too. You'll only make that mistake once (hopefully!). Get everything dimensioned and then start laying out/cutting.
 
Thanks for the feedback and the video.  I guess there's something I'm still not understanding.  The planer can remove warping?

What's the difference between a jointer and a planer?

If I'm going to build a built in or bookcase with sheet goods, would I still need either of these tools?

Thanks!
 
You won't need a jointer or a planer with sheet goods, but you also won't be able to change their thickness (generally speaking). You buy the thickness you want.

With solid wood, a planer (more accurately called a thicknesser in the UK) will not remove warping, but it will make the two opposite surfaces of the wood parallel. I made a sled which enables a planer to be used like a jointer and this removes warp.

 
Kodi Crescent said:
Thanks for the feedback and the video.  I guess there's something I'm still not understanding.  The planer can remove warping?

What's the difference between a jointer and a planer?

If I'm going to build a built in or bookcase with sheet goods, would I still need either of these tools?

Thanks!
If you only do a project here and there,you can just get your lumber jointed/planed for a little extra cost.All you have to do is cut your lumber to size you need.
As for the difference between the 2 tools,A planner will shave the surface to get to whatever size you need but the whole board will have the same thickness thru out.
A jointer,you remove anwanted thickness on the board to make it flat and straight.You can joint a little at the time until you satisfy with the result.
Hope this help.
 
Kodi Crescent said:
Thanks for the feedback and the video.  I guess there's something I'm still not understanding.  The planer can remove warping?

What's the difference between a jointer and a planer?

If I'm going to build a built in or bookcase with sheet goods, would I still need either of these tools?

Thanks!

If the warped area is supported the planer can do jointing.

Basically, a jointer has a bed made of a flattened material, usually cast iron but sometimes steel or granite. The blade is in the middle of two beds (infeed and outfeed) the outfeed is set to the height of the blade, the infeed is set below the height of the blade so as you run the wood over the blade, wood is removed to make it even with the outfeed table. Since the outfeed table is a flat surface, if enough wood is removed to completely match outfeed table, then the wood is flat on that side.

A planer has the blade suspended over the wood. The bed underneath the blade is flat so if you put a piece of wood with the flattened side down and feed it under the blade, the top side is cut parallel to the flat bottom side giving you two parallel, flat sides. If the side of the wood on the planer bed is not flat, the blade will push it down and you may get a thinner piece of wood but it in not flattened unless it is supported by a jointer sliding bed like the one in the video so it can't be pushed down.

Did that make sense? There are a few videos around showing how a jointer works and how a planer works, do a quick youtube search. Sometimes it makes more sense if you see it in action...
-Jim
 
Hello Kodi,

If your working exclusively with sheet goods then a joiner and planer might be a waste of money for you.  One thing that you have to understand if your building furniture or cabinets with solid lumber is that "wood moves".  A wood planer is mostly useless unless you have a joiner that will allow you to establish one flat face and one 90 degree edge.  The planer and table saw will allow you to get precise dimensioned wood to finish dimensions. If your interests run in the solid wood furniture direction, PM me and I'll recommend some reading material that will better explain what I am posting.
 
I was getting very confused at first cus at first I was thinking Planner (surface Planner)  then every one is going on about dimensions and I was think you wouldn't dimension something with a planner  but  then Richard Leon cleared it up for me.

You Americans have some funny ways of calling things lol.  A planner lol The word thicknesser has more relevance than the word planner.  

A surface planner( jointer) is used to get the timber flat  and remove the twist/bow.  

A thicknesser(planer) reduces the dimension of the timber.   Average thicknesser(planer) can remove up to 4mm  some less some more depending on how powerfull it is.  

So if your buying timber at 150mm thick it can often vary along the  length a few mm. So to get a consistent dimension you use a thicknesser (planer) So if you set the thicknesser at 148mm it will remove 2mm of your timber if in places your timber is thicker it will remove more and if in places your timber is thinner it will remove less. This then  keeps the timber the same thickness all the way 148mm!  If your timber is bowed or twisted it will still come out bowed and twisted the other end but at 148mm along the entire length.

This is where a surface planer(jointer) comes in the longer your surface bed is the easier it is to get your timber straight.  You would use this before sending it through your thicknesser for 2 sides of your timber to make to facing edges.   One to straighten your timber and two to square your timber on one edge using a square fence to run along.   Once you have done two sides of your timber THEN you send it through the thicknesser thicknessing the 2opposite sides to the ones your planned on the surface planer.  

then you timber will come out with ALL four sides bang on square and parallel to each other with a consistent dimension and as long as you did a good job on the surface planer it will be dead straight.

I use my Portable thicknesser ALOT  perfect for site work for when  bought timber is on the job as you know their are only set sizes you can buy and sometimes the timber can just be a little to thick and my thicknesser comes in perfect for jobs where I just need to make it to exact dimension.    Just need a portable surface planner with a LONG bed so I can straighten some of the crap bowed timber which often gets deliver on jobs.

JMB
 
Well...just watched the video my self! lol I hope da video helps lol but gotta admit i got a little bored watching it, its a long vid lol   [unsure]

 
jmbfestool said:
You Americans have some funny ways of calling things lol.  
NO, I think it's you guys that have some funny ways of calling things!! [laughing]
Let's face it,we drive on the right side of the road,You drive on the wrong side of the road!!! [laughing]
 
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