Best finish for MDF worktop?

ear3

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I apologize for all the questions, but this is the only way I'm going to figure this stuff out, so...one more question regarding how to finish the MFT-style MDF workbench I just finished boring out, especially since the only time I've worked with MDF in the past, it's gotten primed and painted.

What's the best finish for an MDF workbench where I'll be doing glue-ups, assembly and sanding (little to no cutting)?  Just wax it?  Or is it better to throw some more durable finish like a polyurethane, or even shellac?  And if poly, does it make a difference whether it's water or oil based?  Thanks much.
 
I did a 50/50 mix of wipe on satin poly and mineral spirits to finish the top of my lathe bench. Took 12 coats, but each coat dries quickly. I finished up with a coat of wax and buffed it out. It really toughened up the surface and water beads up on it like a freshly waxed car.
 
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And then paste wax from time to time.
 

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I Spray mine with Deft Semi-gloss Lacquer. A couple of coats and glue scrapes off easy.
 
Linseed oil with some natural turpentine and a bit of accellerant (hardener) mixed in. Even smells nice : )
 
You've already done the hole boring, so I'd stay away from polyurethane or heavier coatings that could drip into and affect usability of the holes. 
 
I use 2 or more coats of wipe on poly and then paste wax.  Periodic applications of the wax, especially before an extensive glue project.  I did get some glue into a couple of holes that had to be carefully chiseled out and sanded smooth.  I then added several applications of the paste wax to all of the holes and the problem has not reoccurred since.

Any glue that does find its way onto the surface is very easily remove with even a fingernail.  Anything that is stiff would work for removal and no damage to the table top.
Tinker
 
Did you use oil or water based poly -- and does it make a difference given MDFs high absorption and tendency to warp when wet?

Tinker said:
I use 2 or more coats of wipe on poly and then paste wax.  Periodic applications of the wax, especially before an extensive glue project.  I did get some glue into a couple of holes that had to be carefully chiseled out and sanded smooth.  I then added several applications of the paste wax to all of the holes and the problem has not reoccurred since.

Any glue that does find its way onto the surface is very easily remove with even a fingernail.  Anything that is stiff would work for removal and no damage to the table top.
Tinker
 
I use a spit coat of 1/2 # cut of shellac,  than Osmo poly X. You may not need to  do the spit coat, but  I find it seals it better and the Gulf of Mexico is across the street so I need to seal everything. 
 
Would it be crazy to recommend putting down a sheet of cheap laminate prior to boring the holes?  The Wilsonart distributor in Washington used to sell "B" and "C" grade sheets for about a dollar per sf.  These would have cosmetic blemishes, but nothing that would keep you from using it for a work surface.  I see full sheets of laminate at the building salvage stores for lower prices than that.
 
>>>Did you use oil or water based poly -- and does it make a difference given MDFs high absorption and tendency to warp when wet?
 
WastedP said:
Would it be crazy to recommend putting down a sheet of cheap laminate prior to boring the holes?  The Wilsonart distributor in Washington used to sell "B" and "C" grade sheets for about a dollar per sf.  These would have cosmetic blemishes, but nothing that would keep you from using it for a work surface.  I see full sheets of laminate at the building salvage stores for lower prices than that.

better do both sides. Just saying...
 
I ended up applying a couple of coats of Danish Oil to both sides, and am gonna wait for a few days before applying some oil poly.
 
Nice trick on the clamp + bungee cord for the systainer hold down.

WestcoastwoodcraftMark said:
I went with grey to match my interior, hey why the heck not  [tongue]
 
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