Blade Choice for Cutting Clear Acrylic

[pdlandgang]

I have a TS55.  Material is going to be between 1/2" to 1" thick.  Which is the best blade to get that would result in a "glue" ready edge by itself and what blade would give an edge that might need some small refinement to get ready for "gluing"?  From what I have read, the finer the blade and slower speed is the best combo for the best cuts.

It is for a potential client that needs display cases for a bakery. 

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

We have a blade that's made for cutting plastics. Yes, a slow blade speed will help prevent the plastic from melting as it's being cut.

http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/track-saws/blades/aluminum-plastic-56-tooth-saw-blade-496307

If you want some assistance on it, I know that some of my colleagues have worked with customers who were also cutting acrylic and they may be able to give some advice.

Shane

 

[tbellemare]

I've cut acrylic with that blade quite successfully - also with the Fine Tooth Blade. The "glue" is an extremely low viscosity solvent and with a good cut, the seam will disappear.

Tom

 

[mouppe]

I just use the regular blade on full speed but I make shallow passes and it works fine.

 

[Stephen B]

I just use the regular blade on full speed but I make shallow passes and it works fine.

[size=11pt]
You may like to place masking tape straddling the line of the proposed cut. This helps to minimise any tear out and also better shows your pencil marks.

 

[mouppe]

I just use the regular blade on full speed but I make shallow passes and it works fine.

[size=11pt]
You may like to place masking tape straddling the line of the proposed cut. This helps to minimise any tear out and also better shows your pencil marks.

I have never encountered any tearout but I do clamp the rail down so it does not move at all.

 

[rst]

I fabricate acrylics commercially (up to 1/2") and cut with an AGE plastic/aluminum blade and a TS-75.  I have a Powermatic table saw with a sliding table but the Festool saw and tracks are quicker and easier in many cases.  Actually you should cut fast... it prevents the plastic from heating.  It is important to keep a consistent speed of cut.  If you need transparent edges scrape rather than sand.  It is quicker and leaves an better edge.  There are commercial scrapers but you can use a stiff knife.  If you are butt gluing, use the sawn edge...do not sand or scrape.  For clear edges flame the edge with a torch, I use propane as most of my runs are reasonably short.  Be careful not to over heat as the plastic will bubble.  Practice!!!  Like anything else there a various ways of getting the same results but the above method is a scaled down version of of the methods used by store-fitting companies.
.

 

[pdlandgang]

Does it tend to dull the blade faster?

 

[rst]

You are cutting plastic...carbide is not going to be dulled by plastics.  I have used blades for years and have never sharpened one.  You will need to clean the blade occasionally with conditioning buffs... I use my blades for plastics, aluminum, wood and brass and have not sharpened a blade in 10+ years and that was my aluminum fabricating blades when we were doing storefront work.  BUY industrial blades.  http://www.plasticsmag.com/ta.asp?aid=5048

 

[rst]

http://www.plasticsmag.com/ta.asp?aid=4540

 

[rst]

http://www.plasticsmag.com/ta.asp?aid=3207

 

[rst]

Another consideration is the acrylic...there are extruded and cast.  You need cast as it machines and finishes better.  The thickness of your material is going to be an issue also.  The reason I bought a 75 was because my 55 did not like cutting 3/8 and above.