Brass Pilot Router Bits

Mario Turcot said:
I'm looking for bits that do not marr or burn the edge.
Any pilot bit with ball bearing? The outer race does not spin, so it does not mar or burn. At least in my experience.
 
Svar said:
Mario Turcot said:
I'm looking for bits that do not marr or burn the edge.
Any pilot bit with ball bearing? The outer race does not spin, so it does not mar or burn. At least in my experience.

Yes all my trim & pattern bits have bearing. I notice that it will mar or burn the wood if I do not move fats enough. could it be because the bolt holding the bearing is too tight? It happen several times with pine and poplar, are those species too soft?
 
Have you tried a lower speed on the router?

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I use the 1/16 round over all the time in my cabinet work. Its great for easing the corners and gets into corners of pre assembled face frames. The brass will wear out over time and start to burn the wood. At that time you will need to purchase another bit. Also I pretty much only use Whiteside router bits.
 
"Yes all my trim & pattern bits have bearing. I notice that it will mar or burn the wood if I do not move fats enough. could it be because the bolt holding the bearing is too tight? It happen several times with pine and poplar, are those species too soft?"

If your bearing bits are burning then maybe the bearing is gummed up and not spinning. They can be removed, cleaned, and oiled. I believe the screw should only be clamping down on the inner race and apply no pressure to the outer portion of the bearing. If it is then maybe the wrong screw head diameter or washers are installed. Also the bearings spin crazy fast and do wear, so a replacement may be what is needed.
 
There are 3 common styles of router bits with pilot bearings or ball bearings.

The Infinity style bit uses a small brass pilot bearing and relies on just the fit & finish of the brass cap and the machined router bit shaft to prevent rotation. While handy because of it's small size, I've noticed that applying a little bit too much of a side load to the bit will render the brass bearing useless and it will spin.

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The traditional ball bearing bit, while more bulky, relies on an actual ball bearing with sealed-in lubricant to prevent burning. There's a small flange bolt that retains the ball bearing. Make sure the flange is only contacting the inner race of the ball bearing.

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For laminates, a square edge Teflon ball bearing bit is available. It's designed to not mar laminate materials including high gloss products.

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[member=72399]CeeJay[/member]
CeeJay said:
Have you tried a lower speed on the router?

That a good point, thank you!

[member=60285]Getmaverick[/member]
Getmaverick said:
I use the 1/16 round over all the time in my cabinet work. Its great for easing the corners and gets into corners of pre assembled face frames. The brass will wear out over time and start to burn the wood. At that time you will need to purchase another bit. Also I pretty much only use Whiteside router bits.
Thanks, this is what I was wondering.

[member=60461]Bob D.[/member]
Bob D. said:
If your bearing bits are burning then maybe the bearing is gummed up and not spinning. They can be removed, cleaned, and oiled. I believe the screw should only be clamping down on the inner race and apply no pressure to the outer portion of the bearing. If it is then maybe the wrong screw head diameter or washers are installed. Also the bearings spin crazy fast and do wear, so a replacement may be what is needed.
Another good point, thanks!

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I believe you might have nailed it. I put too much lateral pressure and the washer between the bearing and the cutters is getting into the wood.

[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] Tools today is my main bit resources and they have a huge selection. I never trully look into their miniature bearing series. Perhaps I should give it a try, that 4 pcs set fills pretty much all my needs. Thansks for the suggestion.
 
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