Bridge City Toolworks "Jointmaker Pro Upgrade" Review . . .

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Reflections at 3am.

The new rails rock!

My JMP with the (prototype) upgrade kit followed me home for the weekend.
This Monday I'll start posting my thoughts on the new rails taking into account that I have been using the JMP since it first came out.
I'll talk about whether it is worth the money to upgrade to the linear rails, what the differences are and what one could do with the original tables and ways if one does upgrade.
I'll talk about what the changes would mean to the new owners of the JMP-v2 as well as the JMP-sw.

enjoy your weekend,
Roger

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A General Review of the new Linear Tables for the Jointmaker Pro  (JMPv2 & JMP Upgrade Kit) from Bridge City Tools

I'll cut right to the point (perfect pun don't you think?): I have been a Jointermaker Pro user since its introduction and was more than curious as to whether it?s worth the money to upgrade my Jointmaker Pro to the v2. Through this review you should be able to gain enough information to decide if the new JMP v2, the new JMP SW (single wing) or the upgrade kit is for you. I will not (at this time) bury you with details and insights to work methods, clamping set-ups (even if you see hints in the photos), nor will I repeat my review of the JMP from a year ago.

Note: Whenever I write JMP-v1, I am referring to the original JMP introduced about a year ago.

On the New Linear Rails . . .

Switching from the original dovetail system to the new ball bearing linear rails...

. . . is like the feeling you got from going uphill on a cruiser bike and then switching to a geared system bicycle.

. . . is like going cross-country skiing then switching to downhill skis.

. . . is like massage with oil as opposed to bare hands.

I think you get my point; they all get you to the same destination with less effort.

With that in mind it is important to note that the quality of the cuts between the two linear table systems is identical.  Comparing a perfectly tuned JMP-v1 to the upgrade version you can't help but notice that the inertia and reduced effort of the new linear slides makes the cutting experience feel "breezy". There is an absence of drag with the linear slides that is inherent with the dovetail design. Especially when one travels the full length of the original ways - pushing through a cut, and then returning.

The new rails provide more momentum with less effort during the cut..

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Cutting small stock or cutting shallow cuts on large stock, whether it be squiggle wood, cutting dovetails, joinery cuts or chamfer cuts - the inertia of the new rails makes this an easier operation. Where the new system really shines are lengthy sessions for all the above. There was not the same feeling of fatigue as with the dovetail system. That being said if you are just an occasional user and working with balsa like wood for architectural models I'm not quite convinced that you would need to upgrade.

I found for instance when I was cutting the ripped piece you see below it became a "breezy experience" -  which on the dovetail system is usually a tedious process.

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In the short time I've been using the upgrade I'm surprised at the robust quality of the linear rail system. There have been times in the past with the dovetail system where when you get a little ahead of yourself and you push the workpiece (trap clamped to the tables) into the blade; and the work piece and the blade become jammed. This then necessitates slowly backing the blade out and wiggling out the work piece, which sometimes leads to loosening the dovetail to table alignment - which then leads to having to recalibrate the tables. (An easy adjustment - but annoying interruption to one's workflow.) In the couple of times I got ahead of myself - that didn't happen with the upgrade rails. While I'm on that topic - if for some reason the table to rail alignment (bearing slop) does get out of whack there will be adjustment ports thru the bottom of the rail to adjust the screws that hold the table to the rails. On the prototype rails I have, only one rail has adjustment ports. Keep in mind that if you remove the factory installed linear bearing housing that is attached to the rails, (the sliders) all hell will break loose and you will probably void your warranty, as you will have acetyl ball bearings showering all around you.

While we are on the topic of linear bearings here's a brief animation with an x-ray view on how they work.
(I should note that the animation below is generic in form, and with no connection to BCTW's linear bearings - I'm just showing the similarity of motion.)
  YouTube - THK line?rn? veden?

Keep in mind that the bearings in the JMP upgrade are acetyl (to reduce the noise level & the wear on the track) This system requires no lubrication and has no need for constant re-adjustment on the table / rails. The hydroscopic movement due to weather changes to the original dovetail sliders is no longer an issue. The noise level is definitely higher on the upgrade version, to where if you were multi-tasking while on the phone your caller would know that you were up to something. (Not so on the JMP-v1 - I know, I've done it many a time) Working at 2 am in the morning is possible however, unless your spouse is a very heavy sleeper you might want to set up in the room adjacent to the bedroom rather than the bedroom itself.

As a somewhat close re-enactment of the sound level - go to a drawer in your kitchen with full extension slides - older Accuride style slides are best - and slide it back and forth - putting some weight on the front drawer-face, its a little louder than that rolling sound, not including the sounds/clicks you hear at full and closed extensions. (This re-enactment does not work with Blum hardware!)

And one more little detail - Did I say - No lubrication required!

The Big Question . . .

Will I order the upgrade? Without a hesitation - yes.
Am I upset that there is a significant upgrade, just shy of a year from its original introduction? Actually, no and no. For the first no - I'm glad BCTW's was able to come up with a radical improvement on efficiency & ease of use on their next generation of JMP's and make the improvement available as an upgrade on an existing design.
For the second - "no", having the original JMP allows me with very little modification to have the ability  to switch for an expanded use, inappropriate here, but I will soon share my  thoughts on the Bridge City Tools Forum.

What I am more surprised at is that they have made such a dramatic change in the design of the JMP series without an escalation in price. In the days ahead I will go into more detail of using the new system as a single table user (simulating the JMP-sw), but with what I've done up till now is that for the majority of the cuts, a single slider is very efficient and effective.  I tested the single table idea because the new JMP SW only has one sliding table.

The Down Side . . .

I have to say that I'm trying very hard here to list the negatives,
And the negatives a more annoyances to work around with!

The first - being the access slot on the outside edge of each table. (The ones directly over the new rails) Once the back fence is set up, in order to put through either the short bolt or longer bolt for the wood clamp one needs to pull the table all the way forward so the slot on the table extends to over the back plate - so you then feed the bolt thru at that point. (See photo) On the JMP-v1, one accesses the outside slots through the ways to feed the bolt.

This may be a matter of the "Prototype" version, but the access slot for the feeding of the short bolts in front outside slots of the table (to hold the back fence) when extending the table over the front plate - is a very tight feed-through. That would be remedied by making the table/slot just a little bit longer.

The sound, you'll get use to it - the JMP-v1 does have more of a Zen quality to it.

This is a surprise to me but using the JMP w/v2 upgrade rails, makes me want to use the tool more--resulting in one's disappearance from household activities, chores & family movie watching.
Now that can be a huge positive or a huge negative? I'll keep you posted!
 
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In the next few weeks I'll be fielding questions from both forum members and visitors while I have use of the upgrade prototypes. I will also be documenting different clamping procedures and techniques that I have come to use.

all the best,
Roger Savatteri

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Thanks Roger -

Great insights and very helpful.

Can you tell us what the red clamp you are using as a hold-down is on your JMP table?

Is it metal, plastic, or what?

Thanks - looking forward to more.

neil
 
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Neil,

Thank you for your thoughts.
Actually the same question was asked earlier on tF, plus a question about my "donuts" on the clamping block.

So here's my reply copied over.......

Poto said:
.... what is that very cool stand-up clamp that you have? And what's with the little donuts on the clamping block? ...

I'm really getting to like that stand up clamp & you'll see me using it more in coming set-ups. It's called a rack clamp and the manufacturer is Des-taco and it's very lightweight and made  from high strength glass reinforced nylon. It is non-metallic and resistant against chemicals.  see.....http://www.dawntools.com.au/products/Composite_Non_Metalic_Clamps_34_81.pdf
Once upon a time Lee Valley was selling it & a couple of other composite models and then discontinued selling them. I picked them up when they were on special buy at the end with the intention of using them for some sort of jig or for fiberglass projects to use in conjunction with tooling set ups. I'm glad I did.
Keep in mind that in order to alleviate binding / flexing of the tabletops one needs to take care when applying too much pressure with the surface clamps.

As to the little donuts on the clamping block,,,, think tires on a tugboat.
Sometimes, depending on the workpiece to be held - I find the "tugboat tires" holds a bit firmer than the sandpaper.
I found them back in my misc. hardware drawers!
(they are held on with very strong double face tape)
note: when I use the "tugboat" side of the clamp block above, I flip it the other way.

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Not wanting to rain on anyone's parade, but the price is insanely high for what is clearly a specialty item. That said, I realize the manufacturer is entitled to charge whatever is appropriate to conduct his business at a profit. My opinion is just an ultra-mini-micro-review based on weighing the publicized features against the total price of the tool. It's a no-buy for me.
 
Both. The assembled JMP is $1,545.00 - the upgrade is $438.00

The total after taxes and shipping is well over two grand. I don't know - that's serious dough to me. But then again, I'm a hobbist, so a pro (or a wealthy hobbist!) may have a different perspective.
 
I'm pretty sure the tax is included in the selling price and if you read the website, shipping is free right now.  You may want to double check that though.  Never would I pay someone a couple hundred bucks to put something together for me.  It may take a couple hours to complete it but it would save you money.  So, if you pay $45 you can become a founders circle member and get the tool for $1195.  If not you get it for $1295.  If you think about it, you pay $45 to save an extra $55 plus then you get discount on any other tool you buy for 1 year.  If you are already a member then you save $100. Regardless if you are a hobbyist or pro, if the JMP is something you can use then I don't think it is over priced at all.  It really is an amazing machine made of great components, materials, and engineering.
 
ForumFMG wrote:

"Regardless if you are a hobbyist or pro, if the JMP is something you can use then I don't think it is over priced at all."

I disagree, but I respect your opinion. I personally feel that there are things overpriced, regardless of how useful they may or may not be to you. Festool's Kapex is a good (if controversial) example; I paid roughly $450 for the Milwaukee 6955-20 Miter Saw, and the machine - including dust extraction - is every bit as good as the Kapex.; even if the Kapex is better overall, it is clearly not twice or three times as good. I feel the same way about BridgeCity tools - I will admit, though, that they do "look the (expensive) part". Hell, if I were a wealthy guy I would just pay for the JMP without batting an eye! I really mean it. :-)

"It really is an amazing machine made of great components, materials, and engineering."

It does look very, very nice, indeed.
 
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Forum is correct.... as a Founder member the JMP-v2 is $1195.  to your door. (shipping is included) Only if you live in Oregon could there be taxes.

The JMP-sw does about 95% of the cuts the JMP-v2 does, so thats $795. .............to your door.

I would highly suggest & recommend self - assembly.

The only reason one would need the upgrade is if you already have the original model JMP  (the new technology is within both the JMP-v2 & the JMP-sw)

And upgrading is optional not necessary.

note ....and if you have the original model JMP, one is more than likely a Founder member,,,,, so that makes the Upgrade $399. delivered.

All versions of the JMP are highly engineered hybrid machines made for precision work.

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Thanks, Roger, for the clarification.

Your product does look nice, indeed. Good luck!
 
irvin00 said:
Thanks, Roger, for the clarification.

Your product does look nice, indeed. Good luck!

Irwin,

Your welcome & for further clarification I merely wrote the review(s).
(as well as own one)

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Roger,
Is it easy to change between different blades(crosscut and ripping) on the "JP"? I keep a ryoba  within reach at all times to avoid needing to rip with a blade intended for cross-cutting,
 
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William,

A blade change on the JMP takes me about an easy 3-4 minutes.

Loosen the 2 screws that holds the blue saw guide,
lossen the 5 little screws (you don't have to remove them) ,
remove blade, clean/blow out track where blade sits
switch blade (I wax mine - more on this later)
tighten the 5 screws, tighten the blue saw guide with the two screws.........done.

for more detail with illustration see section 21 here....... http://www.bridgecitytools.com/files/datasheets/505/JMP_UsersGuide_rev2.pdf
(keep in mind that the pdf manual I just referred to is for the JMP-v1 - but that whole function will remain the same with either the JMP-v2 or JMP-sw.)

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Roger Savatteri said:
As to the little donuts on the clamping block,,,, think tires on a tugboat.
Sometimes, depending on the workpiece to be held - I find the "tugboat tires" holds a bit firmer than the sandpaper.
I found them back in my misc. hardware drawers!
(they are held on with very strong double face tape)
note: when I use the "tugboat" side of the clamp block above, I flip it the other way.

FWIW the little donuts on the clamping block are cable grommets
 
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On the subjects of miters,
for anyone interested in special rigging on the JMP, I just downloaded a long post on a working model of a  3-Point 45 Degree Miter Clamp Jig for the JMP

The thread is residing at the Jigs & Fixtures forum at BCTW.
Scroll down to Dec. 20th. . .  Bridge City Tool Works Forum

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In an effort to get more info up on a regular  real time basis - I'm going to be posting "Tweeter-Like Posts" of specific JMP moments in the workshop.

In the following shots I'm really ecstatic over the wood-clamp from the JMP-sw that Michael sent me to test out.
It holds even a thin profile very securely and works well with any of the JMP versions. (below I'm using it on the JMP-v1 version to cut a miter)
You also see me using only one of the two that come in the set.

(It only comes standard with the JMP-sw, but I'm told it will be available as an accessory item) - one could also grab some maple and make one - oneself.

In the third shot I'm using the CT-15 to set the blade angle.
Remember, although there is a degree scale on the forward plate - it's always best to set the blade to the work.
(There are flip-stops to use if you need to go back to that angle at a latter date)

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