Built-in bookcase

Very nice setup.  And a nice case.  Pretty and useful.

Did you do the face frame on site?

Interesting that they didn't have you cover the radiator.  How did that play out?

 
Very nice job Seth!  It looks like it was always there which is what I always aim to achieve!

Bob
 
Seth:
Great idea.
Nice looking cabinet too. It looks like doors are going on the bottom?
It looks like the sides are 1 -1 1/2" thick and the shelves are 3/4" to 1" thick. What did you paint it with?
Tim

EDIT>  Removed unneeded quote
 
Nice job Seth. The radiator is styling now! We have painted lots of those old radiators over the years, never fun. Good looking project.
 
Yup, couple doors going on the bottom. Only one pic shows the trim all done. Nothing fancy but it matches the simple trim in the room.  Luckily the crown was a standard big box profile and size , so I was able to just buy that, and not have to make it to match.

No, face frame was done in the shop. I would normally do the unit in sections that would be easy to move, then assemble and add the face frame on site.  But the the 1" drop fom left to right in the floor and spanning the radiator was going to be problematic with that method. So I built it as tall as possible and brought the unit in in one piece. Glad I calculated the diagonal height accurately, when standing it up, it came within 1/4" of the ceiling  [scared] That could have been a disaster moment with both homeowners standing there watching  [embarassed]

Hard to see in the picture but it is quite a nice radiator, completely decorated in the casting (what that called?). And it good shape. I think they just like te radiator.

Sides  are 3/4"  with 1 1/2" face frame. Short shelves are 3/4" with 1" front edge. Long shelves are full 1".

Paint is Sherwin Williams  , Pro-Classics Trim and Door. Which I really liked, and the SW Multi Purpose primer too. I like fast drying primer but some of it today dries so fast that I find it hard to  use. This dried fast but gave a little working time. I thought the paint  covered well, went on smooth, and had a good flow out.

As for the "portable shop"  that space was actually comfortable to work in , could have even gone a bit smaller if need be. Don't think I'd want to build the whole unit in that space. But a surprising amount can be done with a careful set up. I had the TS55 going on the MFT at one point.

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
Sides  are 3/4"  with 1 1/2" face frame. Short shelves are 3/4" with 1" front edge. Long shelves are full 1".

Paint is Sherwin Williams  , Pro-Classics Trim and Door. Which I really liked, and the SW Multi Purpose primer too.

Thanks Seth. From the photo it looks like the sides are a full 1 1/2" thick.
Are the long shelves 1" ply?
Tim

Edit. fix quote
 
johnmocha said:
Did you brush or spray the paint?  Either way it looks great!

Brush, well actually Ilike to use the paint pads, those sort of bristley sponge deals. I find that they apply a  lot of paint quickly and it comes out quite smooth.

Seth
 
Seth I wonder what brand pad you use? I've been using them for a long time for self leveling waterborne finishes (Minwax Polycrylic, mostly- when I can't use Osmo...).
They are incredibly good for this- short learning curve, super inexpensive, and your jobs look like they were sprayed.
But I get bits of that 1/8" or so bristle stuck in the surface sometimes. Often its basically invisible, but sometimes I have to pick them out immediately, which gets tricky.
Do you ever have this happening?
There should be a brand that doesn't do this...
 
panelchat said:
Seth I wonder what brand pad you use? I've been using them for a long time for self leveling waterborne finishes (Minwax Polycrylic, mostly- when I can't use Osmo...).
They are incredibly good for this- short learning curve, super inexpensive, and your jobs look like they were sprayed.
But I get bits of that 1/8" or so bristle stuck in the surface sometimes. Often its basically invisible, but sometimes I have to pick them out immediately, which gets tricky.
Do you ever have this happening?
There should be a brand that doesn't do this...

These are the ones I use. The larger one is quite maneuverable and has a pretty good feel because of the handle design. It can be used the long way or short way and the angled corner makes it get into corners pretty well.  As opposed to one with an actual long plastic handle.

[attachimg=#]

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The red handled one works well on trim pieces and narrow stuff.

BTW save your Festool accessory , plastic boxes. They make great, lidded paint trays to use with these pads.

And putting the pads into a plastic bag will preserve them for use over the course of several days.

I do get a piece of fuzz every once in a while, but at least with paint it can be plucked  off the surface  (while wet) and a quick swipe takes care of it.

Seth
 
Seth thanks for the tips, I can't remember which brand I used to use but I'll try out the Sure Line next time I'm doing a waterborne wood finish.
Paint pads are underrated!
 
Very clean, Seth, just like I'd expect from someone so organized.

I'll have to read the build tutorial more closely.

Nice work,

- Kit
 
kit camp said:
Very clean, Seth, just like I'd expect from someone so organized.

I'll have to read the build tutorial more closely.

Nice work,

- Kit

Thanks.

There is really no tutorial.

It has clean simple lines to go with the room. The base board, door and window casing is just flat stock.  The standard crown is the fanciest trim.

Seth
 
Hi Seth,

I have some painting coming up on a job and I was thinking of trying the SW paint you mentioned above. When checking it out, I noticed they have a a few different "Pro-Classic" paints. Were you using the Oil, Acrylic/Alkyd, or plain Acrylic? Thanks.

- Kit
 
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