Built-in with beaded face frame

[VictorL]

I've completed relatively simple build-in  with beaded face frame.
Birch plywood, poplar, pine and aspen.
Tools used: TS-55, Domino DF-500, OF-1400, RS-400, Deltex DX93, LS-130, LR-32 jig, Kapex, MFS-400, T12+3, MFT-3 table, CT-26 (in shop) and CT-mini (on site)

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VictorL

 

[Theshipstore]

Victor  Awesome job, really like the shelf and door layout alot

Sal

 

[Brice Burrell]

Lots of beaded face frames of late.  How did you make yours?

 

[VictorL]

Lots of beaded face frames of late.  How did you make yours?

MFS and Festool's router bit (491667). It's a little bit small, but works fine.

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[lumbajac]

Very nice.  What did you do/use for your finish?

 

[rnt80]

Looks really good.  I'm a sucker for beaded face frames.  Why didn't they want the piece built in?  You obviously built it to fit in that particular space.
Is the top for the base made from solid stock?  It looks to be longer than 8' and it's hard to see if you have a seam in it.

 

[VictorL]

Looks really good.  I'm a sucker for beaded face frames.  Why didn't they want the piece built in?  You obviously built it to fit in that particular space.
Is the top for the base made from solid stock?  It looks to be longer than 8' and it's hard to see if you have a seam in it.

Base top made out of 7.5' and 4.5' plywood. These parts were glued together with 5mm dominoes. Edges were glued and routed in shop, then two parts were glued on site and finaly cut to dimension.  After glue dried, top was handled as a single piece. No breaks or cracks.
Face frame made from two symmetrical pre-assembled parts and glued together on site. (Seam is in the center). 

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Very nice.  What did you do/use for your finish?

It's Benjamin Moor latex paint

 

[Michael Kellough]

That's clever!

 

[honeydoman]

nice looking and very clever idea to use domonios for clamps  for glue up.. I learned something....  I would have taken it to ceiling and wrap crown.. but otherwise beaded face frames and styles look very nice, thanks for sharing..

[thumbs up]

 

[jmbfestool]

Nice Clean job!

One thing!   I prefer the hinges chiseled into the bead rather than the door. So they are more discreet.   I have seen a kitchen which was done like how you did it just chiseled them into the door not frame but before seeing that I always thought it should be into the bead but to be fair either way looks fine after I saw it the other way.  

JMB

 

[Joe Duarte]

Very  nice job VictorL...did you finish on site or in the shop?.... I am debating the best way to finish a kitchen with frames and inset doors. I don't like to see joints between frames. What finish you used?
Thank you...
Joe

 

[VictorL]

Very  nice job VictorL...did you finish on site or in the shop?.... I am debating the best way to finish a kitchen with frames and inset doors. I don't like to see joints between frames. What finish you used?
Thank you...
Joe

Thanks, Joe. The finishing process had multiple stages. Some parts were painted in shop, some on site. Internal part of cabinets and shelves were painted in shop, the rest of parts were painted on site.  I've used Benjamin Moore's latex paint.

 

[tiralie]

Why didn't they want the piece built in?  You obviously built it to fit in that particular space.

Victor:
Nice job. I particularly like the finish.
Like rnt80, I was wondering how you and/or your client decided on the design.
Thanks for posting.
Tim

 

[VictorL]

Why didn't they want the piece built in?  You obviously built it to fit in that particular space.

Victor:
Nice job. I particularly like the finish.
Like rnt80, I was wondering how you and/or your client decided on the design.
Thanks for posting.
Tim

Thanks. It was my first built-in.
the reason was to have something in place, but at the same time unit must be easy to remove/replace in 3-5 years.

 

[alfa]

Very  nice job VictorL...did you finish on site or in the shop?.... I am debating the best way to finish a kitchen with frames and inset doors. I don't like to see joints between frames. What finish you used?
Thank you...
Joe

Thanks, Joe. The finishing process had multiple stages. Some parts were painted in shop, some on site. Internal part of cabinets and shelves were painted in shop, the rest of parts were painted on site.  I've used Benjamin Moore's latex paint.

How did you apply the paint? Did you use HVLP? Sand in between coats? I'm finishing up some cabinets and have a 5 stage Apollo HVLP that I intend to use - thanks, Alfa

 

[VictorL]

How did you apply the paint? Did you use HVLP? Sand in between coats? I'm finishing up some cabinets and have a 5 stage Apollo HVLP that I intend to use - thanks, Alfa

Paint was thinned a little bit. I've used low end turbine HVLP, but occasionally I'll upgrade it toward 4 stage HVLP.
I lightly sanded with Brilliant 2 P400 between coats.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Unless you had a low stop in the base cabinet "counter top" it looks like the left hand bookcase leaned right and the right hand bookcase leaned left. To avoid that make sure the parts all all cut the same way in the same setup/jig so even if the cut isn't absolutly square the resulting cabinets all lean the same way.

If you still get gaps like this you can deal with them after the fact if you made the base cabinet like ordinary kitchen cabinets with open tops spanned by stretchers. Don't screw the "counter top" down in the back and you can insert shims above the back stretchers to push the "counter top" up to the bottom of the bookcase.

If you want to be fancier than the shims you can use jack screws. Countersink deeper than flush drive in a screw with the point ground off to a length a little longer than the thickness of the stretcher. The blunt end of the screw will push "counter top" up and will look like it belongs there if anyone ever bothers to lay on their back and look up inside the base cabinet.

 

[Wooden Lungs]

Really nice work. Very neat and well designed. Looks like they could take it with them if they move too!

 

[VictorL]

Unless you had a low stop in the base cabinet "counter top" it looks like the left hand bookcase leaned right and the right hand bookcase leaned left. To avoid that make sure the parts all all cut the same way in the same setup/jig so even if the cut isn't absolutly square the resulting cabinets all lean the same way.

If you still get gaps like this you can deal with them after the fact if you made the base cabinet like ordinary kitchen cabinets with open tops spanned by stretchers. Don't screw the "counter top" down in the back and you can insert shims above the back stretchers to push the "counter top" up to the bottom of the bookcase.

If you want to be fancier than the shims you can use jack screws. Countersink deeper than flush drive in a screw with the point ground off to a length a little longer than the thickness of the stretcher. The blunt end of the screw will push "counter top" up and will look like it belongs there if anyone ever bothers to lay on their back and look up inside the base cabinet.

Thanks for feed back. I've made bunch of mistakes in this project. Next projects will be nicer and neater.

Really nice work. Very neat and well designed. Looks like they could take it with them if they move too!

It's one of options.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Very nice, Victor!  [thumbs up]