Cabinet doors for garage

TheTrooper

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Mar 19, 2015
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Okay, I'm out of my element here. I've built tons of vanities, built-in,  mantels and so on. I have a customer that wants cabinets built for her garage but wants flat panel doors on them.  All I've done was raised panels and rail and stiles with a flat panel.  I'm considering doing a ½" MDF but  other sure how it will hold up in a garage and how will it hold up with full overlay hinges.  I've only ever used solid maple, poplar, cherry, and oak before. And made my raised panels from the same glue ups.
There are 3 cabinets one at 3' wide and 2 at 4' wide all 72" tall to match the cheep Walmart ones she's had for years.  The boxes will be a cabinet grade ¾" birch or maple ply and the shelves will be the same.  My dilemma is the doors.  I've never used MDF for cabinets and was wondering (1) will it hold up to the stress of the hinges,  (2) should I use 2 or 3 hinges and (3) do you suggest a dab of PL Urethane adhesive in the hinge pockets.  Or what other material should I use.  The cabinet will be painted but the owner is doing that herself.
 
I think I'd go with a good grade of edge-banded plywood and use three hinges due to weight and the potential for abuse in a garage.  I've never liked MDF for doors, and especially not in a garage environment.  YMMV...
 
I vote for banded ply as well. Too many temperature swings in a garage. Keep it simple.

Cheers. Bryan.
 
I would think you will need at least 18mm (3/4 ) so that you can drill for blumb hinges

I've seen kitchen doors In 12mm but they have a packer around the hinge .not sure you would get a good enough fixing this way
 
3/4" (18mm) would be my choice.  As noted by VW Mick, hinge cups would blow through 1/2" (12mm).
 
I have been using 3/4 mdf for cabinet doors for 15 years no problems at all. I have several in my shop unfinished, and have done many painted ones and several with veneer and stained. On tall cabinets like pantrys I use 4 doors and put three hinges on the long doors. I use cup hinges both 1/2 and full overlay. I have had no problems with moisture or warping.
 
I'd also go with edge banded 3/4" ply for warp resistance along with reduced weight over MDF. MDF is roughly 25-30% heavier than plywood.
Blum recommends that doors from 40"-65" tall and weighing 15-30# use 3 hinges, while doors 65"-88" tall and weighing 30-45# use 4 hinges. See attachment below.

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Attachments

My experience with garage cabinets is for two workshops in garages including my current one.  First, I don't use that nice of grade of plywood.  I bought 3/4 BCX for my current shop and used it for the drawers too.  It isn't pretty but holds up fine.  I but the large base cabinet on a 3 inch high pressure treated plywood base.  Our driveway slopes towards the house until the last few feed and once in 3 years we got a couple inches of water.  Even in previous garages there is water when the car comes in dripping.  Best to consider that however you do the base.  I would use exterior grade plywood for sure.  The moisture changes can encourage delamination.

I prefer drawers but have used doors on uppers.  I made them of softwood and 1/4 luan.  Very light and worked fine.  I used a cope and stick bit on my router table to make the joints.  The luan will not fill he resulting 1/4 slots.  I solved that by caulking the panels in before I painted.  It looked surprisingly good.  If you prefer, you could always use 1/4 hardboard.  It would be easier and would paint up, if anything, better.  Poplar would be nicer for the frames.  I think poplar frames with hardboard panels would make nice garage cabinets. 
 
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