cabinet doors hinge jig help

[jeep jake]

Hey guys I have about 10 super basic cabinets to build I have built most of the carcasses and solid plywood doors are cut. What jig do you guys recommend for my 35mm blum soft close hinges. I'am not making any money at this point, due to purchase of tools, and I also don't plan on making any real high end cabinets. I am planning on building some shop cabinets, and laundry room cabinets, in the near future. What I am looking for is precision, efficiency isn't a concern right now.
this is what I was thinking about picking up.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=32263&cat=1,180,42311
Is there another jig that anyone would recommend? or any feed back on this specific jig.

 

[pugilato]

I have found this jig from Woodhaven to be easy to use and has not failed me yet... 35 mm hinge boring jig

I like it because it can be done with a router.

 

[tjbnwi]

This is the Rockler offering, if you get 2 and a length of T-track you can set the spacing, install a stop and the boring will be in the same location on each door. I used this system until I got my CMT press for the hinges.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5878&Max=999

I actually still have it and your local to me, send me a PM and we can make a deal on it. Tell you what, $75.00, you come get it and its yours.

Tom

 

[stvrowe]

You may want to review this thread;  35mm Euro Hinge Boring

If you are new to using these hinges, be sure to download the catalog sheet for your hinges/mounting plates.

 

[Cort]

Hey guys I have about 10 super basic cabinets to build I have built most of the carcasses and solid plywood doors are cut. What jig do you guys recommend for my 35mm blum soft close hinges. I'am not making any money at this point, due to purchase of tools, and I also don't plan on making any real high end cabinets. I am planning on building some shop cabinets, and laundry room cabinets, in the near future. What I am looking for is precision, efficiency isn't a concern right now.
this is what I was thinking about picking up.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=32263&cat=1,180,42311
Is there another jig that anyone would recommend? or any feed back on this specific jig.

I have the Veritas jig you reference, and I can attest to its quality.  However by no means is it a production tool.  It is ok for the occasional hinge here or there.  While set up is quick, repetitive use is not its strong point.  I sometimes chuck the jig's drive adapter in my drill press and use the jig in the drill press for better downward pressure.  A 35 mm diameter cutter is a fairly large bit to spin on a handheld drill, even with a nice cast metal jig.  If you have a drill press, I think you would be just as happy by making a jig for the drill press table yourself and purchasing a 35 mm dia cutter.  One thing often overlooked is the need to be familiar with your hinge's layout parameters.  Spend some time reviewing the data sheets for your hinges--they should be online.  There are some neat Excel spreadsheets you can download from online sources for specifying the right Blum hinges and base plates for your projects.

 

[honeydoman]

Go to
http://sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfeld-s-hinge-boring-jig?filter_name=Easy%20bore

It's great and only 179 free shipping. I've been using it for years
Just like the Blum one (which is about 300)

This one works great. When you buy it let me know and I can give you a tip on how to use it

 

[otis04]

For ten doors, I would measure carefully and drill with a drill press.  Use a small drill as a pilot and put the brad point of the 35mm bit in the hole, it will not drift.  Not the quickest, but you can save the money toward a LR32 system.

 

[ThomasC]

With a couple of exceptions, it is more critical that the distance from the edge of the door to the cup be accurate, than it is to be accurate from from either the top or bottom edge of the door. Considering this, and given that you're only boring 10 doors, I think the drill press (with a registration fence) would be adequate.

TC

 

[semenza]

I am using the Blum ECO Drill. It is the most expensive one shown so far. Very similar to the Sommerfeld.  I am guessing that they work the same way too. So the Sommerfeld might be the way to go just based on price. What I will say is that it is all self contained. ie; the bits are mounted in the unit (factor that into the price) , the clamp is integral , the bore distance spacers,etc. Set the bore distance and depth (easy), mark the hinge center line, clamp it on, drill.

It just plain works.

Seth

 

[BUTTER]

Hey guys I have about 10 super basic cabinets to build I have built most of the carcasses and solid plywood doors are cut. What jig do you guys recommend for my 35mm blum soft close hinges. I'am not making any money at this point, due to purchase of tools, and I also don't plan on making any real high end cabinets. I am planning on building some shop cabinets, and laundry room cabinets, in the near future. What I am looking for is precision, efficiency isn't a concern right now.
this is what I was thinking about picking up.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=32263&cat=1,180,42311
Is there another jig that anyone would recommend? or any feed back on this specific jig.

I have the Veritas jig from Lee Valley, and will honestly say that I don't much care for it.  Holding the jig down to the workpiece by hand detracts from its efficiency. The holes for the other two points take an extension to reach with my Vix bit, and, of course, limit you to the screw-in hinges.

That said, if efficiency isn't your biggest priority, it's a nicely-made tool.

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I have an Orange 35mm bit and a simple guide That I bought at Rockler. Couldn't find the link but I believe it is CMT or a Rockler branded item. The guide was around $35 and forgot how much the bit was but if I remember correctly it was a suggestion when I bought a bunch of Blum hinges. I have done many euro Blum door hinges with it and it does the job very well. The Plastic guide had me concerned but is still in perfect shape.

 

[honeydoman]

I've used all the jigs. And even the Blum one now all I use is Sommerfeld. It's exact. Quick and last forever

Buy

 

[land_kel]

So who copied who here? Sommerfeld or Blum.  Seems to be exact same except Blum uses torx drivers in lieu of 13mm socket.  Is there a big priced difference? What about the wood chip jamming with no extraction method.

D

 

[honeydoman]

Blum was first. Cuz Sommerfeld used to sell Blum. That's how I bought my first one. Then he had his own made up. And it's almost exactly correct. I'm sure he did something to bypass patent or what ever but his works great and last long time

 

[semenza]

So who copied who here? Sommerfeld or Blum.  Seems to be exact same except Blum uses torx drivers in lieu of 13mm socket.  Is there a big priced difference? What about the wood chip jamming with no extraction method.

D

No problem with wood chips jamming the Blum can't speak for the Sommerfeld.  When you unclamp and move to the next  most of them fall out the  bottom.  I think the Sommerfeld is about $100 less.

Seth

 

[land_kel]

I purchased the BLUM Ecodrill for $225 new in box at Richeau. Did not know about the Sommerfeld one but am happy with it. Replacement bits are spicy, but I should not have to worry about that for some time yet as a hobbiest. Thanks for the answers.

David

 

[tjbnwi]

My hinge boring system is the CMT. I looked at the others and choose the CMT because of the one spindle drive system. It will accept 35 mm, 20 mm, 8 mm and 2.5 mm bits. The head can be changed out to bore for 11 mm x 42 mm Grass hinges also.

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-CMT333-03-Universal-Boring-System/dp/B0017Q1WYO/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Drill press and a fence makes quick work of them especially with a couple stops.   The use a Vix bit to drill pilot holes for the screws. Takes almost as long to type as to actually do it.   Unless you are making doors on site I see no reason for a jig. 

Not all the hinges have the same centerline distance from edge of door. Your drill press fence needs to be adjustable.

The jig eliminates 3 steps and 3 motions.

1) square hinge to door edge

2) drill hole "A", while trying to hold hinge square to edge 

3) drill hole "B", while trying to hold hinge square to edge

The drill press is why I feel the CMT jig is superior to the others available, can be used it on a drill press or "free hand". The fence is also easy to adjust.

Tom

 

[Michael Kellough]

I bought the Blum Eco jig based on a recommendation from a cabinetmaker I respect.

It is precise, durable, and easy to use. It does not require a drill press. A cordless drill is fine.
It is easily used on an MFT on site.

The only negative is the lack of dust collection but the dust is contained so it doesn't fly all over as when using a drill press.
When set up on an MFT (or similar table) I tape a plastic bag to the side of the table to catch the debris that falls from the jig as it is removed from the door. Occasionally I poke a stick inside to loosen jammed chips or use the vac.

I only use knock-in hardware now to take advantage of the 8 mm holes. Set the jig in position once and make all three holes.

If I lost it and had to get another I'd get the Sommerfeld version to save some money.

It's dead simple. Those who prefer the PC pocket hole jig to the Kreg might also prefer the CMT drill press jig.

 

[tjbnwi]

The CMT jig does not require a drill press.

I've used it with a drill, both corded and cordless for years.

Works on the MFT, floor, clamped to the door. I much prefer the single spindle input.

If appears you cannot drill the 2.5 mm holes with the Sommerfiled or Blum jig, only 8 mm mounting holes. The Sommerfield will not drill for the 11 mm x 45 mm Grass hinges either. I would not expect the Blum to drill for the Grass, other brands should be able to.

By the way, I have the Kreg pocket hole jig. An older one modified for dust collection.

Tom