I am building a couple of built-ins for the family room and I am planning to install cabinet lights in the top. I have only been able find the "puck" lights which require a place to plug in and the cord is not rated to be buried in the walls. Question, should I give up and install an outlet and use puck lights or is there a better alternative? I called an electrical supply and all they recommended was the puck lights. She who must be obeyed is not sure she likes the puck lights.
Cabinet Lighting
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Chris Hughes
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Gentlemen, we like in the age of LED. Google LED and you will find all of the awesome options available. I grew up installing the same old cabinets in the same old designs with the same old lighting, so as a person that does design work I can not express how happy I am that when are out of the rut when it comes to lighting, material options and old thinking related to kitchen layout.
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Lighting has been one of my intense interests for more than twenty years. This is the next computer evolution like event. When buying LED lighting there is much to be considered. I would suggest that anyone who considers going down the road pay attention to the color of the light, just like finishers pay attention to the amber quality of their finishes.
Peter
Peter
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Hardwiring is usually an issue. The LED lighting is DC and requires a transformer.
Pteer
Pteer
It's called Star Strand.
Savio Lighting: ET2 StarStrand LED Tape
Hope this helps. We didn't supply it, but were responsible for incorporating it into cabinets.
Jon
Savio Lighting: ET2 StarStrand LED Tape
Hope this helps. We didn't supply it, but were responsible for incorporating it into cabinets.
Jon
Chris Hughes
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As was stated, LEDs need a transformer. If early enough in the project we can integrate the transformer at a power source other than on top or inside the cabinets. I have had the good fortune to work with some really nice lighting designs that were next level. I have seen all kinds of LED platforms like rope, flat wire, and modular inline units.
I just googled LED lighting and came up with a rather large selection. I am lucky enough to have local resources to see these products first hand.
I just googled LED lighting and came up with a rather large selection. I am lucky enough to have local resources to see these products first hand.
I used a little over a hundred feet of Starstrand on a recent project (Maxim Lighting LED tape). I used the SuperStar tape. It does require a transformer, in the LED world they refer to them as “drivers”. I used several of the larger dimmable drivers so we could vary the effect. We remote located the drivers for easy access and purchased the screw terminal kit for hardwiring to the tape. They also sell pre-trimmed heat shrink sleeves for the connection between cable and LED tape. If I remember correctly the tape was around $20 to $23 per ft. The termination kits were only a few bucks a piece. I almost fell over when I got the price on the drivers, they were just shy of $200ea. I wound up finding an alternate source for the drivers and they were only $86 a piece. They looked and spec’d exactly the same as the ones provided by Maxim, minus the branded label.
I evaluated several other brands but I really liked their product. It had good color, plenty of light output, and was very easy to install. The light was very uniform too.
Kris
I evaluated several other brands but I really liked their product. It had good color, plenty of light output, and was very easy to install. The light was very uniform too.
Kris
Tim Sproul
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I use 3 or 4 inch recessed can lights for uppers. Put in an LED replacement bulb if you want low energy/low heat light.
$15-20 for the can and another $20-50 for the LED. Wire like any incandescent can light.
$15-20 for the can and another $20-50 for the LED. Wire like any incandescent can light.
Here are some photos of the Starstrand installed. This is of course a different application, but it might give you an idea of how effective the lighting is.
Pathway lighting dimmed 15%.
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Step lighting dimmed 15%
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These lights were recessed so that light wouldn't broadcast across the wood. The idea was to just create a glow around the column. Dimmed 10%.
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Kris
Pathway lighting dimmed 15%.
[attachthumb=#]
Step lighting dimmed 15%
[attachthumb=#]
These lights were recessed so that light wouldn't broadcast across the wood. The idea was to just create a glow around the column. Dimmed 10%.
[attachthumb=#]
Kris
Holzhacker
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I recently looked into this for a commercial client who wanted to budget for doing under cab lighting in about a 100 kitchens next year. Ended up installing 4 different versions of lights as a trial and cost eval between now and then. Standard puck light set up, standard halogen bar set-up and two versions of LED strip lights.
I've always hated puck lights. Just don't like the stupid, cheap little things. Halogen bars, nice good light, too much energy and heat. Both have the expensive short bulb life and replacement issue. Bulb replacement cost and maintenance personnel cost to replace bulbs has become a budget issue for the client. We installed two versions of LED lighting that were both line voltage. Lighting is pretty good on both. We'll see how they last between now and spring.
I would agree with others that LED is the way to go. Costs will be higher no matter what, going LED. If you have the time to do the research and find the products, you should be able to manage Ok though on cost. If you need the stuff tomorrow, you're screwed on cost.
There's a company in Mokena just outside of Chicago making LED bars and tape I looked into. Nice product, decent pricing. Can't find their brochure right now though.
Another option is rope lights. I love rope lights. I know some people think they are cheesy but I've found them to be very reliable, cheap cost and really versatile. I've put lots of it in and never had a call back.
On a side note, went to Lowe's the other day. They had a bunch of LED light bulbs on clearance for $5 each. HD or Menards had the same bulbs going for the regular $30-$40. Don't know if other Lowe's are doing the same.
I've always hated puck lights. Just don't like the stupid, cheap little things. Halogen bars, nice good light, too much energy and heat. Both have the expensive short bulb life and replacement issue. Bulb replacement cost and maintenance personnel cost to replace bulbs has become a budget issue for the client. We installed two versions of LED lighting that were both line voltage. Lighting is pretty good on both. We'll see how they last between now and spring.
I would agree with others that LED is the way to go. Costs will be higher no matter what, going LED. If you have the time to do the research and find the products, you should be able to manage Ok though on cost. If you need the stuff tomorrow, you're screwed on cost.
There's a company in Mokena just outside of Chicago making LED bars and tape I looked into. Nice product, decent pricing. Can't find their brochure right now though.
Another option is rope lights. I love rope lights. I know some people think they are cheesy but I've found them to be very reliable, cheap cost and really versatile. I've put lots of it in and never had a call back.
On a side note, went to Lowe's the other day. They had a bunch of LED light bulbs on clearance for $5 each. HD or Menards had the same bulbs going for the regular $30-$40. Don't know if other Lowe's are doing the same.
For LED lighting the place I use is DealExtreme. They do 12v DC for cars Or house with a transformer as well as 110v and 86~240 v ac and a lot between
http://www.dealextreme.com/c/led-light-bulbs-907?page=1&pagesize=100&pagesort=relevance
http://www.dealextreme.com/c/led-light-bulbs-907?page=1&pagesize=100&pagesort=relevance
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