Carrying case for guide rails...

[JDLee]

Greetings everyone...

I'm new to Festool.  I just sold my EZ Smart system and purchased an unreasonable amount of Festool items.

My EZ system guide rails fit in a plastic rifle case sold on the Eurekazone website.  They made it easy to carry the rails around without concern for damaging them.  I see that Festool has a soft-sided case that will hold two FS1400/2 rails.  But I'd like a hard case that would hold longer rails like the FS1900/2 along with a FS1080/2 (I guess a FS3000/2 would be unreasonable).

I ran several searches, but couldn't find any posts about this.  Has anyone found a good solution for protecting guide rails when carrying them around?

 

[Dan Clark]

... purchased an unreasonable amount of Festool items.

JDLee,

Welcome aboard.  BTW, most people purchase an unreasonable about of Festool stuff.  We refer to it as the slippery slope!  ;D

Several people have created various ways of storing their guide rails for shop use.  I've seen posts where a case is made using solid wood ends + 1/4" ply or hardboard.  One of the other members here may have more specifics.

One other source of info might be the JLC Finish Carpentry forum.  There are several Festool users over there and most work onsite.  Here's a post to get you started:http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38930&highlight=festool+case.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Eli]

... purchased an unreasonable amount of Festool items.

BTW, most people purchase an unreasonable about of Festool stuff. 

I resemble that remark. What's unreasonable anyway?

 

[JDLee]

Thanks for the link, Dan.  I thought it would probably come to building something like that.  I was going to get two 55" rails to carry around and join for an 8' cut.  But a tech at Festool told me that one 55" isn't long enough to across a 4' wide sheet of plywood because with the size of a TS75 you'd have to start the cut with a plunge.

I think the way EZ connectors cause their rails to self-align is one of the few features I'll miss.  But they necessitate a thicker guide rail (one of the things I'll miss least).

Eli--The TS75 and the rails, more than paid for with the proceeds from my EZ sale, were reasonable.  And I already owned a MFT 1080 that I bought for use with that system (and kept).  I think the 1400/CT33 combination was a little less reasonable.  The hole drilling kit and rail were certainly unreasonable.

I bought the EZ system because I became frustrated with any other guide system I'd tried.  I just wanted to be able to cut down some plywood (honest). But I will use the rest of it (I swear) as soon as I'm through remodeling (rebuilding may be more accurate) the home I bought.  Did you ever see the Tom Hanks film "The Money Pit?"
...

 

[Dan Clark]

JDLee,

I saw the movie and I'm living it right now with a master bath remodel (I'm posting a story in a few days in the Member Projects section). 

One question - why the TS75?  If the key usage is cutting sheet goods, a TS55 is probably a better choice. 

Regards,

Dan.

 

[festoolgolfer]

i made this carrying case out of scraps, a little heavy but protects the rails.

 

[JDLee]

One question - why the TS75?   If the key usage is cutting sheet goods, a TS55 is probably a better choice.

People keep telling me that.  To the point that I'm beginning to question my decision.  I want the ability to cut as deep as the TS75 goes on the fairly rare occasion I need it. 

I had thought that I could always add a TS55 later and have the best of both worlds, but I guess there's an issue with switching saws on the same rails and the splinter guard.  I was going to go into that, but I see it has been addressed in other posts.  That's a bit annoying.  Still, its vastly more integrated than the EZ system.

Festoolgolfer--I like that.  I think that I'm ultimately going to end up making something like that.  I can live with the weight to protect the rails and make them portable.

 

[Dan Clark]

One question - why the TS75?   If the key usage is cutting sheet goods, a TS55 is probably a better choice.

People keep telling me that.  To the point that I'm beginning to question my decision.  I want the ability to cut as deep as the TS75 goes on the fairly rare occasion I need it. 

I had thought that I could always add a TS55 later and have the best of both worlds, but I guess there's an issue with switching saws on the same rails and the splinter guard.  I was going to go into that, but I see it has been addressed in other posts.  That's a bit annoying.  Still, its vastly more integrated than the EZ system.

Festoolgolfer--I like that.  I think that I'm ultimately going to end up making something like that.  I can live with the weight to protect the rails and make them portable.

JDLee,

If it's within the 30 day window, you can take it back and buy a TS55.  They are both good saws; it just depends on what you'll use it for most. 

I've used my TS55 to rip 18' X 1-3/4" X 11-1/2" (true dimensions) Microllam beams.  It's tough stuff.  I first used the Panther saw blade (14 teeth) and then the Standard saw blade (12 teeth).  It went through that easily althought the Panther is not meant for plywood.  The TS55 is a tough little bugger. 

I also have a Bosch 4410L miter saw.  It's faster for mitering and can cut over 4" deep, but since I've gotten the TS55, I haven't used it much.  (I want to get a Kapex and get rid of my Bosch for some upcoming major trim carpentry work.) 

One of the things you'll find here on FOG is that we're not wedded to a particular tool set or methodology.  Each of us is searching for the best combo to fit our needs at the time.  Needs change?  We change. 

If your looking for a saw to perform rough carpentry, and to break down sheet goods and for use on the MFT, the TS75 will work.  However, for roughly the same amount of money, you could get a TS55 for the sheet goods and MFT use plus something like a nice Makita circular saw for rough carpentry. 

Also, if you're concerned interested in high volume work, you can use the TS55 to cut one side, and then flip over the board and cut through the other side.  Or, you can cut part way with the TS55 and then finish the cut with a hand saw (I have several Japanese pull saws - fast cuts and very accurate.)  Lots of ways to solve that issue.

Best of luck,

Dan.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I had thought that I could always add a TS55 later and have the best of both worlds, but I guess there's an issue with switching saws on the same rails and the splinter guard.

The position of the saw on the shoe can be adjusted, as in, adjusting the angle of the blade to the direction of travel so the rear of the blade does not score the work. In theory, this also allows you to adjust multiple circular saws so they all fit the guide rail/rubber strip the same way.

 

[Ned]

...the TS75 will work.  However, for roughly the same amount of money, you could get a TS55 for the sheet goods and MFT use plus something like a nice Makita circular saw for rough carpentry. 

I agree.  I hefted a TS75 for the first time yesterday.  Lord, it's heavy compared to my ATF55--and you lift that extra weight every time you cut sheet goods just to make sure you have enough saw for that "fairly rare occasion".

Have to admit I'm having a hard time figuring out what I'd use a TS75 for.  Finish carpentry on covered bridges?

Ned

 

[gkeas]

I had thought that I could always add a TS55 later and have the best of both worlds, but I guess there's an issue with switching saws on the same rails and the splinter guard.

The position of the saw on the shoe can be adjusted, as in, adjusting the angle of the blade to the direction of travel so the rear of the blade does not score the work. In theory, this also allows you to adjust multiple circular saws so they all fit the guide rail/rubber strip the same way.

I replaced my 75 with a 55, but the 55 blade cuts about 1.5 mm outside the existing spinter guard on my rails (that were cut by the 75)  I'd like to learn more about repositioning the saw on the shoe.  Can anyone elaborate?  (why don't I replace my splinter guards? Good question, I guess I'm lazy_

 

[brandon.nickel]

I bought the soft case for the 55" rails.  You can put two of them in there but only if you nest them just right and squeeze for all you're worth.  Would it have killed Festool to make the bag 2 cm longer?  My 55" rails now live semi-permanently connected to each other in my shop, so the bag sees little use.  Aligning them isn't hard if you have a 3rd rail or a 48" level/straightedge.  Takes a few seconds and they don't move once tightened.  You can dimple the rails if you get too aggressive with your set-screws. 

Like others I'd recommend the 2700mm rail for in shop work.  I really wish they'd make a version of that with the LR32 holes.  I have no reason to buy a 95" rail except that I'd like a few more holes than my 1080 provides.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I bought the soft case for the 55" rails.  You can put two of them in there but only if you nest them just right and squeeze for all you're worth.  Would it have killed Festool to make the bag 2 cm longer?...... 

Brandon, I too have the Festool tote bag and at the beginning I thought it was too hard to get the rails in. But, after you've done it a few times it's not really that difficult to do. Now I really like the bag.

 

[joiner1970]

Brandon,

I have two 1400 rails and the bag and I dont have to squeeze them to get them in had no problems at all.

 

[Amateur]

I have an old ski bag that my wife, who sews, is going to adapt to hold my 55" & 75" rails.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

        If you end up building a case some possible light weight materials-  Luanne will be lighter than hard board (masonite, the peg board stuff) maybe you can find some 1/8",  or that plastic that comes in 4 x 8' sheets for covering walls etc.  A pine frame and foam inside. This might not be that heavy.

Seth

 

[Dave Ronyak]

The position of the saw on the shoe can be adjusted, as in, adjusting the angle of the blade to the direction of travel so the rear of the blade does not score the work. In theory, this also allows you to adjust multiple circular saws so they all fit the guide rail/rubber strip the same way.

I replaced my 75 with a 55, but the 55 blade cuts about 1.5 mm outside the existing spinter guard on my rails (that were cut by the 75)  I'd like to learn more about repositioning the saw on the shoe.  Can anyone elaborate?  (why don't I replace my splinter guards? Good question, I guess I'm lazy_
[/quote]

See Rick Christopherson's Manual for the TS 55 which is linked here  http://festool.home.att.net/ and on Bob Marino's site.  The Festool USA site also has some useful setup tips, but I don't recall it describing how to set toe or how to compensate for different saws on the same guide rails.  In essence, you simply loosen the same screws that secure the base of the saw to the motor/arbor unit just as you would to adjust toe-in, and slide the base relative to the motor/arbor unit to match the previously trimmed rubber strip, and reset the toe by inserting a piece of paper between the blade and the rubber strip on the heel side of the blade with the front (toe side) of the blade in contact with the rubber strip.  See Rick's manual; he's much better at these descriptions than I am.

Dave R.

 

[Norm St.Onge]

I found a plastic gun case on line - specifically a case for a black powder rifle/musket - that would hold 2-3 55" rails. Unfortunately it was amost $300. Most rifle cases are 53-54", the black powder was 58"...for the life of me I can't find the link, I remember googling through dozens of hunting supply webs sites to find it.

I use the Festool soft side case, if I nest them saw surface to saw surface they fit in the bag easily. Mine rail bag stays in my van nested between the shelving and the side wall. The bag prevents dings and dents but if I were to drop something heavy on it the rails would get damaged.

-Norm

 

[Christian A.]

Hi everybody,

another member of this forum, Frank Pellow, built a container for his Festool guide rails and accessoires. Unfortunately, I can't find a pic of it right now. I'd suggest to contact Frank if he doesn't jump in here and post additional information about his container.

Regards,

Christian

 

[GreenGA]

BTW, most people purchase an unreasonable about of Festool stuff.   We refer to it as the slippery slope!   ;D
[/quote]

I agree!  Sunday I only "recalled" hearing about Festool.  Today I placed an order with Bob for about 10% of the cost of my first house.  ;D