centrotec countersink depth

[harry_]

Sorry, I know I posted a similar question before, but can't find the thread for the answer....

I am wanting to buy a 4 or 4.5mm centrotec countersinking drill, but more importantly I want to be able to drill 1 5/8 of an inch with somewhere 1/8 to 1/4 inch of countersink.

My questions are:

Will the 'stock' version of this do that?

Is there an alternate drill bit (but preferably Festool) that I can put in there that will make it so?

[edit add] I suppose that the 1 5/8 of drill depth could be reduced by the amount of countersink available.

and a side question:

Why doesn't Festool show this info on the website?  [poke]

 

[peter halle]

Harry,

I have the 3.5 mm version.  Can you extend the bit out far enough? Yes.  BUT the cutting surface of the drill bit only extends 20 mm from the tip.  The drill bit does not a flat milled on it for the set screw, so if you can get a replacement bit in a longer length then you will be able to eject the shavings better without backing out the drill.

I just tried it on a pine 2 x 4 and two pieces of 3/4 paduak.  I did not need to back out on the pine, I did on the paduak.

The recommended depth per Festool is 8 mm to 20 mm.

Hope that this helps.

Peter

 

[harry_]

I'm not worried about having to back out. Everything I work is either oak or maple so that is s.o.p. for me if for no other reason than habit.

Now I will get out my secret decoder ring and do the metric conversions.

I presume I could use one of these replacement bits ?

but will I be able to adjust the countersink appropriately?

 

[peter halle]

Harry,

If you are already used to backing out as SOP than you might not need to buy other bits.  Picts to follow in a couple minutes.

Peter

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[Melrabie]

Peter, I have the same 3.5mm (item no 492 523) which has a flat milled on the bit, I know this because I broke the bit on the second hole I drilled with it. It seems the scope of delivery is different depending in which country you live as mine was delivered with a normal point drill and not a brad point as shown on the USA festool site.

 

[peter halle]

Peter, I have the same 3.5mm (item no 492 523) which has a flat milled on the bit, I know this because I broke the bit on the second hole I drilled with it. It seems the scope of delivery is different depending in which country you live as mine was delivered with a normal point drill and not a brad point as shown on the USA festool site.

That is interesting.  Mine is not a brad point.  It doesn't have the flats on the bit.  It does on the countersink portion.  Mine dates back to December of 2009.  It very easily could have been updated.

If it turns out that I have given wrong info - sorry!  I tried.

EDIT:  It is interesting that the US hardcopy catalog shows a bradpoint bit for the 5 mm version, but not for the 3.5 or 4 mm version.  Don't know.

Peter

 

[AlexThePalex]

Ok, I can help you guys out because I know why there's a difference. Point is, the picture on the American Festool site is wrong.

[attachimg=1]

The picture of the bit shown here is not the 4,5 mm countersink with depth stop No 492524, but it is a drill bit with depth stop only, no countersink, BTA HW D5 CE No 492522.

[attachimg=2]

Above image is how all 3 drill bits with countersink and depth stop look like (3,5 - 4,5 - 5,5 mm).

Is there an alternate drill bit (but preferably Festool) that I can put in there that will make it so?

You can put any drill bit of size 4,5 mm in that you want. The 3,5 mm countersink's center drill bit has a flat side but the 4,5 doesn't have that and is completely round.

 

[neeleman]

Above image is how all 3 drill bits with countersink and depth stop look like (3,5 - 4,5 - 5,5 mm).

Alex, a little correction. The BSTA versions come in diameters Ø3,5 - 4,5 and  5 mm (496451). Not 5,5 mm.

 

[greg mann]

Would it make sense to use the drill and countersink tool at its normal depth of 20 mm or less and then just follow behind with the same size drill with the proper flute length? If you want to do it all in one you will not be able to use the same drill bit at the shorter depths because the flutes will be up in the area where the set screw needs to be, and that is if the drill can even be pushed back into the holder that far. By the time you swap out drills and reset depths for long and short applications you could probably just visit the holes twice. Maybe being able to shorten the drill up is not an issue for you and you will want to leave it long. I think the concept for this tool is to be used mostly for stock about 20mm or less to create the clearance hole and c-sink. then a smaller drill would follow for the threaded portion of other material.

 

[justinmcf]

i would love to see festool supply a longer drill bit with the countersink bits.

the first thing i noticed when i bought the 5mm countersink bit was that the drill bit was too short for my needs.

i replaced the original festool 5mm drill bit with a longer generic brand 5mm drill bit so i could use it for 75mm stainless steel batten screws with hardwood decking boards.

i am now very happy with the countersink bit, but it is a shame that festool do not supply this as standard on such an expensive accessory.

justin.

 

[harry_]

Would it make sense to use the drill and countersink tool at its normal depth of 20 mm or less and then just follow behind with the same size drill with the proper flute length? If you want to do it all in one you will not be able to use the same drill bit at the shorter depths because the flutes will be up in the area where the set screw needs to be, and that is if the drill can even be pushed back into the holder that far. By the time you swap out drills and reset depths for long and short applications you could probably just visit the holes twice. Maybe being able to shorten the drill up is not an issue for you and you will want to leave it long. I think the concept for this tool is to be used mostly for stock about 20mm or less to create the clearance hole and c-sink. then a smaller drill would follow for the threaded portion of other material.

I have a particular application in mind and if this tool can do it (with some modification,if necessary) it is worth the $64 or whatever it costs. The flip-side is if it cannot, it is not worth the $2 in postage to get it here. Currently I drill the hole, then countersink and am annoyed by what I consider an `extra step` and an extra bit in my pouch.