Changing from saw stop to Festool, what do I need

[Intex]

Downsized so I don't have room for all the larger Sawstop equipment and JET machinery, so I am thinking I can probably do almost all my wood shop woodworking work with Festools

I have some questions:

1. Which would be the best choice for a home wood shop, a corded or cordless Festool, and would the 55 model be powerful enough for mostly hardwood 1" thick work?

2. For home sanding, mostly finish sanding , which model would be a good choice? Not something very heavy. I do not do production work, just personal projects

3. Is the new small vac. CT SYS powerful enough, or should I upgrade to mini or midi
    Not concerned with holding capacity

4. I think my first question should be whether I start everything with cordless or go the corded route

Sorry everything is not so precise, but with a large outlay I just didn't want to rely on a salesman's opinion and buying without doing my due diligence

Thanks a lot!

 

[jyarbrou]

1. I usually go corded, I have a tendency to forget and charge the batteries, so when I need something it's dead. I rarely work away from power so I just keep a long extension cord for when I do. I've used the TS55 to rip some 10' long 6/4 red oak with no problems. The only problem I had was I kept tripping the 15amp breaker since the TS55 is rated for 15amps. I ran a 20amp circuit and had no problems with it. I probably wouldn't have even had to do that if I would have changed to a rip blade instead of the standard combo blade.

2. My go to is the ETS EC 150 and the RTS. I checked them all out and found that the 150 fit my hand better, and was more comfortable to me. If you can get to a store that stocks them, go try them all out. For me I found they all felt different in the hand. Try to think down the road to what all you will acquire, so you can get them in the same size to share paper. I picked up an RO 150 because I already had the ETS. Getting a RO125 would have meant stocking different sized papers.

3. Haven't used the CT SYS yet. I have a mini and a CT36. CT36 stays in the shop with a boom arm attached and the mini gets carried around to where I'm working in the house. The mini has enough CFM for the ts55 and all the sanders I have. Haven't tried it on the Kapex yet. Honestly, it takes me forever to fill either of them up. I use a shop vac for cleanup, so it's only tool generated dust being collected.

It's a slippery green slope, so be careful. My wife got me a ts55 a few years ago, and it's been green since then.

 

[Birdhunter]

I cut a lot of exotic hardwoods with my TS55. Mostly 3/4" and 1" stuff. It does fine and isn't as massive as the TS75.

I'd suggest one of the dual mode sanders. I like the 5" size as most of my work is small to medium size pieces.

My drills and jigsaw are battery. Every other Festool product is corded. The corded is nice to use with the Festool vac with the auto start feature.

I'd suggest a medium capacity vac. Routers and Dominos produce lots of debris. Capacity can be an issue

 

[Shane Holland]

Welcome to the forum.

Here are my  [2cents].

1) I would personally go corded unless you need the portability and freedom from a cord. Ultimately, it's a personal choice. The performance is on par between corded and cordless for the most part. The TS 55 has plenty of power for 1" hard wood. I would recommend considering the 12-tooth blade which will make rip cuts and cuts in thick hardwood faster.

2) Another vote for the ETS EC 150 if you want something lightweight and compact. It's a phenomenal sander. Add the DTS 400 for corners if you can. Great complement to round-pad sanders.

3) At 106 CFM, the CT-SYS has almost as much suction as the other vacs, but I would still go with the CT MINI or bigger vac. Not only the additional suction, you get variable speed which is very important for sanding. No variable speed on the CT-SYS. You'll want to reduce the suction. Also, more capacity is a good thing, even though you said that's not an issue. You can save 10% on the vac when bundled with any tool.

4) Corded.  [wink]

 

[Intex]

Thank you everyone for the advice

Do you feel the TS55 system with track can do most of the jobs that my table saw is handling now?

Since it is supposed to give very clean cuts I think I am going to get rid of my joiner and save a lot of room. The open stand horizontal drum sander will also go I think

I think I will take everyone's advice and go corded except for the drill

 

[rljatl]

TS55 plus Bosch Reaxx Jobsite table saw plus Jessem table saw clear cut guides. 

The track saw will rip and crosscut large panels and the Bosch jobsite table saw will do smaller crosscuts, repetitive and narrow cuts.  Great combo and does not take up much room.  Toolnut.com has the Bosch Reaxx TS.

Unlike the Sawstop Jobsite saw fence, the Bosch Reaxx fence allows the use of the Jessem TS clear cut guides without modification.  The Reaxx fence has a t-track under the top plastic cover which allows the Jessem to be screwed right on using 80/20 nuts. 

 

[Shane Holland]

There's a LOT of debate over whether the TS saws can replace a table saw. I think that's because it comes down to what you mainly do with your saw.

For me, I rarely break out the table saw. It's mainly for ripping down thinner boards, which is where the TS saws can be challenging. But there are some options, like the parallel guides or the MFT, that can help with that.

I'm sure there will be plenty of opinions on this topic. Or, search the forum and you can find other discussions about replacing a table saw.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/search2/?search=replace+table+saw

Shane
shane@toolnut.com

 

[jeh]

You need both even if the table saw is a portable one.

 

[jyarbrou]

I don't think I would get rid of my SawStop, but if I HAD to pick one or the other, I would probably say the TS55. I mostly use the table saw now for making repetitive cuts or thicker stock the TS55 can't handle. Although I do use the MFT for some repetitive cross cuts. I recently picked up the RipDog Rip Guides, so I may start using the table saw even less.

I use the TS55 to edge joint rough lumber now, but I'll keep the jointer for face jointing. For me it's much easier to face joint on the jointer, plane with my lunchbox, then edge joint with the TS55 and rip to size on the table saw. Especially on longer lumber.

 

[eightballrj]

I did exactly what you are doing but I already had my TS55 before I got rid of my Sawstop with Incra fence. I wanted the space back in my garage. I will tell you that you CAN do MOST everything with a TS and rail. However plowing dados is a no go and a few other tricks. However what I noticed more than anything is repeated cuts take much much more setup/measure time. If you are repeatedly knocking out narrow pieces you can use some of the accessories. But I find myself a bit outside that range often so I never bought it. I love not having the saw in the garage. But, if I ever have a dedicated shop area I will buy another SawStop. I hope that helps!

 

[grbmds]

If the tools are going to almost always be used in the workshop, I would buy corded. In a workshop, I've never seen the need for cordless tools except drill-drivers unless there are power issues in the shop.

I agree with Shane on the sanders - ETS150 and DTS400. The DTS400 would also double as a finish sander for smaller pieces as well as corners. Unless you are going to regularly use the sander for actual flattening of boards or glue joints, there should be no need for an RO (double mode sander). I have never found a use for it and use my ETS150, ETS125, and DTS400 for almost everything. Care when gluing up panels eliminates the need for a sander to flatten them.

I dumped my table saw for a TS55 and MFT, believing it could do almost everything. Since then I bought a jobsite saw for the smaller rips and crosscuts and have never been sorry. It is tough to get along without a table saw no matter what anyone says.

 

[Shane Holland]

Just a quick note...

I love my Rotex. It gets a lot of use.

But, the OP said he wanted something that's not heavy. Comparatively, the Rotex sanders are heavier, louder and not as well balanced as the other sanders just by the nature of what they are and how they work.

Shane

 

[ear3]

In my experience, the TSC55 actually performs better in thicker woods than the corded version, which, when combined with the no hose ability, makes it an easy choice over the normal TS55.  I sold my TS55 after getting the TSC, and it is my go to saw for all but the thickest boards.

 

[leakyroof]

There's a LOT of debate over whether the TS saws can replace a table saw. I think that's because it comes down to what you mainly do with your saw.

For me, I rarely break out the table saw. It's mainly for ripping down thinner boards, which is where the TS saws can be challenging. But there are some options, like the parallel guides or the MFT, that can help with that.

I'm sure there will be plenty of opinions on this topic. Or, search the forum and you can find other discussions about replacing a table saw.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/search2/?search=replace+table+saw

Shane
shane@toolnut.com

. Question for you Shane, by thinner do you mean narrow strips?  Just wondering .. [huh]

 

[Shane Holland]

Question for you Shane, by thinner do you mean narrow strips?  Just wondering .. [huh]

Yes, sorry if my wording was unclear.  [unsure]

 

[Paul G]

Thank you everyone for the advice

Do you feel the TS55 system with track can do most of the jobs that my table saw is handling now?

Since it is supposed to give very clean cuts I think I am going to get rid of my joiner and save a lot of room. The open stand horizontal drum sander will also go I think

I think I will take everyone's advice and go corded except for the drill

You haven't said what kind of work you actually do with your table saw so there's no way anyone could say if the TS is a reasonable replacement for your applications.

As for the TS/rail replacing a jointer? No, but maybe it's good enough for you, maybe when you fill us in on what you actually do/want to do can folks accurately advise.

 

[rljatl]

Fwiw, I have had great success using my TS75 and track for edge jointing.  I use the method where the the two board edges are touching.  Then the track saw and track are used to run down the seam.  The blade kerf takes a little off each board's edge.  Glue up as usual.  You can not see the glued joint.

 

[Stone Message]

Downsized so I don't have room for all the larger Sawstop equipment and JET machinery, so I am thinking I can probably do almost all my wood shop woodworking work with Festools

I have some questions:

1. Which would be the best choice for a home wood shop, a corded or cordless Festool, and would the 55 model be powerful enough for mostly hardwood 1" thick work?

2. For home sanding, mostly finish sanding , which model would be a good choice? Not something very heavy. I do not do production work, just personal projects

3. Is the new small vac. CT SYS powerful enough, or should I upgrade to mini or midi
    Not concerned with holding capacity

4. I think my first question should be whether I start everything with cordless or go the corded route

Sorry everything is not so precise, but with a large outlay I just didn't want to rely on a salesman's opinion and buying without doing my due diligence

Thanks a lot!

I think your second responder (and others) has hit the nail on the head. I sold my big table saw (and other stuff) in order to get me into Festool just like your plan.

Do not go cordless except drill/drivers. The ETS EC 150/3 is brilliant (not with Brilliant but with Granat  [wink]).

Could you stretch to the CT26 for your vac as it has a larger capacity?

Get a Domino as soon as you can.

Peter

 

[Holmz]

1) The TS55 should work. (An mt55 would be the other logical choice.)
2) The ETS EC125 maybe with a 150 pad seems pretty optimal.
3) midi or mini- or really any vac.
4) unless you need portability, then batteries are another thing that just gives drama if you do not need them. Jig saw and drills are an exception.

 

[jeh]

1) The TS55 should work. (An mt55 would be the other logical choice.)
2) The ETS EC125 maybe with a 150 pad seems pretty optimal.
3) midi or mini- or really any vac.
4) unless you need portability, then batteries are another thing that just gives drama if you do not need them. Jig saw and drills are an exception.

+on the MT55 (way better rail system)