Cherry shelves with sliding doors
- Thread starter erikfsn
- Start date
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- Jul 8, 2007
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- 13,129
Beautiful project. [thumbs up] [thumbs up] [thumbs up] [thumbs up] [thumbs up] [thumbs up]
What a lucky little lady!
Peter
What a lucky little lady!
Peter
chrisrosenb
Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2007
- Messages
- 1,265
Very nice design & a beautiful project.
Chris
Chris
Thanks so much for all your comments.
The design was mine, although I borrowed some of the look of the doors from a Japanese dresser of my wife's.
On to how I made it, and tools I used, etc.
Festools used were my TS55, Kapex, Rotex and Deltex. Non Festool tools, Bosch 4100 table saw with Dado, Bosch Colt router, Bosch Jigsaw. I used the Kapex a lot, and so appreciated its spot on accuracy and ease of use. What a great saw.
I was having trouble using my OF1010 to make the dados in the sides for the shelves. I wanted to use the router with the guide rail, but didn't know about the leveling foot and so couldn't use it. I have a dado for the table saw, but didn't feel confidant in the miter/sliding part of the saw, too much play. So I used the TS55 to cut the borders of the dados, then used the table saw with dado to clean out the waste in the middle. Didn't work as well as I would have liked. The 1010 would have done a better job. I didn't place the rails carefully enough so the dados were a little large.
The doors have 1/4" plywood let into a solid frame (is that joint in the corner of the doors M&T?) with the little handles glued on. Everything is glued together, no fasteners of any kind (oh, whoops, I did nail the 1/4 inch plywood back into the sides and shelves).
The doors slide in top and bottom grooves. The top grooves are 1/4" deep and the bottom grooves 1/8" deep. Both sets of grooves are 1/2" wide, so the 13/16" doors are rabbeted to fit in the narrower grooves. The top groove is deeper to allow the doors to be lifted and removed.
Final note, I love the Kapex feature which allows you to set the depth of the cut at various places above the bed of the saw AND which lets you quickly switch back and forth between that function and normal cutting. You do have to be careful, because the saw does flex, so that the harder you push, the deeper it will cut. For example if you have set the saw to cut to within 1/4" of the bed, if you push too hard on the handle, you're going to get the cut a little closer to the bed than 1/4".
The design was mine, although I borrowed some of the look of the doors from a Japanese dresser of my wife's.
On to how I made it, and tools I used, etc.
Festools used were my TS55, Kapex, Rotex and Deltex. Non Festool tools, Bosch 4100 table saw with Dado, Bosch Colt router, Bosch Jigsaw. I used the Kapex a lot, and so appreciated its spot on accuracy and ease of use. What a great saw.
I was having trouble using my OF1010 to make the dados in the sides for the shelves. I wanted to use the router with the guide rail, but didn't know about the leveling foot and so couldn't use it. I have a dado for the table saw, but didn't feel confidant in the miter/sliding part of the saw, too much play. So I used the TS55 to cut the borders of the dados, then used the table saw with dado to clean out the waste in the middle. Didn't work as well as I would have liked. The 1010 would have done a better job. I didn't place the rails carefully enough so the dados were a little large.
The doors have 1/4" plywood let into a solid frame (is that joint in the corner of the doors M&T?) with the little handles glued on. Everything is glued together, no fasteners of any kind (oh, whoops, I did nail the 1/4 inch plywood back into the sides and shelves).
The doors slide in top and bottom grooves. The top grooves are 1/4" deep and the bottom grooves 1/8" deep. Both sets of grooves are 1/2" wide, so the 13/16" doors are rabbeted to fit in the narrower grooves. The top groove is deeper to allow the doors to be lifted and removed.
Final note, I love the Kapex feature which allows you to set the depth of the cut at various places above the bed of the saw AND which lets you quickly switch back and forth between that function and normal cutting. You do have to be careful, because the saw does flex, so that the harder you push, the deeper it will cut. For example if you have set the saw to cut to within 1/4" of the bed, if you push too hard on the handle, you're going to get the cut a little closer to the bed than 1/4".
Peter Hamilton-Scott
Member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2009
- Messages
- 145
Erik,
My compliments on your very nice and attractive project. I also liked your description of the tools you used. I believe, but cannot confirm, that stacked dado cutters are not legal in the EU for safety reasons. I have a cheap-ish DeWalt 744XP portable TS. I asked DeWalt about fitting a different slot that could accomodate stacked dado cutters but they shot me down for thinking of such a thing. [big grin]
Fortunately, I have enough Festools to conjure up alternative and safer solutions. [wink]
My compliments on your very nice and attractive project. I also liked your description of the tools you used. I believe, but cannot confirm, that stacked dado cutters are not legal in the EU for safety reasons. I have a cheap-ish DeWalt 744XP portable TS. I asked DeWalt about fitting a different slot that could accomodate stacked dado cutters but they shot me down for thinking of such a thing. [big grin]
Fortunately, I have enough Festools to conjure up alternative and safer solutions. [wink]
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2007
- Messages
- 1,671
erik,
yes very nice looking project your step daughter will enjoy that for years to come.
yes very nice looking project your step daughter will enjoy that for years to come.
butzla
Member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2008
- Messages
- 1,233
Eric, You should take a look at John Lucas's Tip on cutting dadoes in plywood with a Festool router using playing cards as shims. Works like a charm.
