Circle cutting jigs. (ROUTERS)

magellan

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Joined
Jan 18, 2011
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211
Hello all
Like a lot of us I’ve had a few home made circle cutting jigs in my 40 yrs of woodworking.  I now have an urge to make a universal one that would work with all of my routers.  I currently use a .250 plywood one that works but I’m not crazy about it. 

I’m thinking about using long drill rods 5/16”  Since Festool doesn’t make a universal fence for their routers I’m thinking of using the Guide Stop as the pivot point.  Using a longer 8mm bolt in the knob and then using a Parf Dog as the center point.  Each router has Guide Stops so it would be a matter of changing the drill rods from say the 1400 to the OF 1010.  This way I could swing circles in any diameter.  I do have concerns about when the radius starts getting larger than say 24” that the rods may flex.  I could make stabilizer that slide on that have set screws. 

I thought I saw a post a long time ago about someone who designed something similar using the Guide Stop as the pivot point

Looking for suggestions on something universal and stong.  I want to get away from the plywood.  I did think about using an aluminum plate but I think I want to pursue the drill rods and Parf Dogs unless there have been negative results that someone has experienced

Thank you all for taking the time to consider this
 
What I do on my 1010 is just exchanging the guide rail accessories handle with an 8mm(?) screw that is ground to a sharp tip. Pre drill a little for the top to drop in, off you go...
 
magellan said:
I do have concerns about when the radius starts getting larger than say 24” that the rods may flex.  I could make stabilizer that slide on that have set screws. 

Here's the stabilizer that Micro Fence uses.
Stabilizer-Bar-700x1-caption.jpg

MFcirclejig.jpg
 
Have you considered using the tablesaw to cut (not too small) circles?

I no longer cut circles with a router and arm... also meaning no more fighting against the cord or hose.
 
Cheese said:
magellan said:
I do have concerns about when the radius starts getting larger than say 24” that the rods may flex.  I could make stabilizer that slide on that have set screws. 

Here's the stabilizer that Micro Fence uses.
Stabilizer-Bar-700x1-caption.jpg

MFcirclejig.jpg

The Micro Fence works great for me.  I've circles and arcs with a radius as large as 28".  I use the stabilizer and there is no noticeable flex.
 
HarveyWildes said:
The Micro Fence works great for me.  I've circles and arcs with a radius as large as 28".  I use the stabilizer and there is no noticeable flex.

That's good to know. I just have their router edge guide which is super. [thumbs up]

I still cut circles on the band saw or with a jig saw.
 
Hey fellows
Thank you for the replies.  Jdm5 that’s pretty much what I was thinking other than drilling a hole.  I would like to use a Parf Dog and my MFT style table.  I’m going to see what dogs are available with 8mm threaded holes.  I believe that is the size of Guide Stop bolt.  I’ll check closer when I get in the shop

Cheese.  Exactly what I’m thinking also.  In my case I don’t have the ability to machine the two halves but I can use a solid piece of aluminum and drill and tap as needed.  I’m thinking with as large as a radius that I’m looking at I’d need two stabilizers.  I’m looking at a 45” radius
And I have 6 at 2” thick or 12 at 1” thick.  I can laminate in the vacuum bag if I go 1” thick

I have to say I’ve not tried circles on a table saw.  I believe I understand the procedure and I would think it goes a lot faster.  How does the finished cut turn out?  It seems I would have to build another jig to hold the work pieces right?  Interesting!!!

I’ve got a few days to before I have to make a decision

I appreciate the input everyone.  Keep the ideas coming
 
How about using the Festool Routing template MFS ?

I use a MFS with my 1400 and have cut some large circles and quadrants
 
magellan said:
Hello all
Like a lot of us I’ve had a few home made circle cutting jigs in my 40 yrs of woodworking.  I now have an urge to make a universal one that would work with all of my routers.  I currently use a .250 plywood one that works but I’m not crazy about it. 

I’m thinking about using long drill rods 5/16”  Since Festool doesn’t make a universal fence for their routers I’m thinking of using the Guide Stop as the pivot point.  Using a longer 8mm bolt in the knob and then using a Parf Dog as the center point.  Each router has Guide Stops so it would be a matter of changing the drill rods from say the 1400 to the OF 1010.  This way I could swing circles in any diameter.  I do have concerns about when the radius starts getting larger than say 24” that the rods may flex.  I could make stabilizer that slide on that have set screws. 

I thought I saw a post a long time ago about someone who designed something similar using the Guide Stop as the pivot point

Looking for suggestions on something universal and stong.  I want to get away from the plywood.  I did think about using an aluminum plate but I think I want to pursue the drill rods and Parf Dogs unless there have been negative results that someone has experienced

Thank you all for taking the time to consider this

The simplest universal way is to base it on a fixed size of template guide. The Festool routers come with a 30 mm guide (copying ring or whatever) and many commercial jigs favour this size.

As one of the others have suggested use a Parf Dog as a trammel (pivot) point at one end of a piece of scrap MDF. Then make a 30 mm hole at the right distance away and you have a simple and very effective circle cutting jig.

If you want to jazz it up a bit then you can make it adjustable:


Peter
 
quote author=magellan link=topic=54361.msg532818#msg532818 date=1513706274]

I have to say I’ve not tried circles on a table saw.  I believe I understand the procedure and I would think it goes a lot faster.  How does the finished cut turn out?  It seems I would have to build another jig to hold the work pieces right?  Interesting!!!

[/quote]

There are different ways to tablesaw a circle, using an existing crosscut sled, building a new base used with the sawfence or used with the T-track, etc. The jig is a hardboard or mdf or plywood with a nail or rod as the centre point.

Here is one of the many examples you can find on youtube:

If you have an 1-1/2" thick stock to cut circle, it may take a while with a router; piece of cake on the tablesaw.I built a nook table using the tablesaw and using the same jig, I chamfered the edge on the underside with ease, too.
 

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Like another poster, I use the MicroJig solution with my OF1400. I had it previous to "discovering" Festool and continue to use it...it's a very fine piece of tooling, albeit not inexpensive.
 
I've used lazy susans (actually bar stool swivels) and double sided tape in the past for making rounds on my router table, also a great way to sand with stationary belt or oscillating danders
 
Another Micro Fence Circle Jig user there. Havent seen anything better. Certainly cheaper though. Jasper Jigs is supposed to be adding a Festool compatible version soon, but who knows when thatll happen.
 
Rob
Your post and write up are what I’m thinking of doing. My reasoning is I have only  had  to swing this big of an arc twice in 20 yrs so spending $400.00 on the MicroFence right now  is what I’d like to avoid.  And it can be universal to all my Festool routers by changing the spreader/stabilizers to fit the width of the particular router fence mounting hole pattern.  I built a large style MFT table last year and I’d like to make use of the holes to use as a pivot point. 

I’m thinking of use aluminum for the stabilizers.  Drill and tap set screws.  Few hours work should yield pretty good results.  I believe I’ll use a long dog as a center point with a screw as the pivot

Thank you for the pictures and link to your thread
 
[member=10212]magellan[/member] Glad you found it helpful  [smile] Aluminum would be a great choice, easier to work and lighter than the steel ones I have.
atb Rob.
 
ScoFF - worked a charm. Thank you.  folks - very easy to use and set up.  small adjustments are easy.  Limited only by the length of the bars which I am sure you can source fairly easily if needed.  Thanks again.
 
I did a similar thing using my OF1010, basically replaced the handle on the rail attachment with the appropriate size bolt.  Worked well.

One trick I found, was to pre-curl the extractor hose and power cord in a circle before making the cut.  Avoids having to fool with it while making the cut. 

Bob
 
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