clam clamps?

[jeep jake]

Has anyone used these before? They look really heavy duty. I don't do much interior trim, but when I do I spend a ton of time getting miters tight. If this would make my life easier, and a better end product.  I would love to order some. Please let me know if you have any experience with these, or a better clamp preference. I currently use, regular spring clamps. 

 

[Oldwood]

Hi,

I have not used them as I don't do enough of that type of work to justify them but Gary Katz is a big fan of them & he does a lot of that sort of thing.
http://www.garymkatz.com/toolreviews/clam_clamps.html

HTH
Gerry

 

[tjbnwi]

They work extremely well. You'll want to take one of the pins out of each leg. On MDF I've used just 1 pin.

Tom

 

[RKA]

The way it was explained to me, these are ideal for wide casings (3.5"+).  On smaller casings it puts a little too much pressure on the inside of the miter, even with some pins removed.  I haven't had a chance to put them to task yet, but I can tell you they are very well made.  If you drop one, make sure your foot isn't in the way. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

The way it was explained to me, these are ideal for wide casings (3.5"+).  On smaller casings it puts a little too much pressure on the inside of the miter, even with some pins removed.  I haven't had a chance to put them to task yet, but I can tell you they are very well made.  If you drop one, make sure your foot isn't in the way. 

There is an adjustment to change the clamping pressure which helps on smaller casing.  On smaller MDF casing, probably not going to happen.

 

[fatroman]

I've been putting 3 1/2" Adams casing in my house.

I ordered the clam clamps after I tried the Collins ones and didn't think they did enough to close the joint. While the Collins ones are great for small profiles, the clam clamps are absolutely fantastic for the big ones. I'd heartily recommend them.

 

[RKA]

The way it was explained to me, these are ideal for wide casings (3.5"+).  On smaller casings it puts a little too much pressure on the inside of the miter, even with some pins removed.  I haven't had a chance to put them to task yet, but I can tell you they are very well made.  If you drop one, make sure your foot isn't in the way. 

There is an adjustment to change the clamping pressure which helps on smaller casing.  On smaller MDF casing, probably not going to happen.

Brice,
Can you elaborate?  I looked at mine and I don't see any adjustment to the eccentric delrin cam.  On one side of that cam is a flat and the other is a detent to hold it's clamped position.  Any position in between causes the clamp to release fully.  I don't know what I'm missing unless he changed the design. 

 

[Knight Woodworks]

Love mine, got four pair. Very heavy duty, much better than spring clamps.

I've used them on wooden casing as small as 1/2" X 2 1/2" with success. Thinner than 1/2" is problematic as the pins are too close to the edge. No experience with MDF casing.

As far as clamping pressure is concerned, I'm not aware of any adjustment, I just crank the lever until the joint is tight and I get squeeze out. Seldom do I need to use max pressure.

Consider using biscuits or dominos in your miters.

John

 

[Brice Burrell]

The way it was explained to me, these are ideal for wide casings (3.5"+).  On smaller casings it puts a little too much pressure on the inside of the miter, even with some pins removed.  I haven't had a chance to put them to task yet, but I can tell you they are very well made.  If you drop one, make sure your foot isn't in the way. 

There is an adjustment to change the clamping pressure which helps on smaller casing.  On smaller MDF casing, probably not going to happen.

Brice,
Can you elaborate?  I looked at mine and I don't see any adjustment to the eccentric delrin cam.  On one side of that cam is a flat and the other is a detent to hold it's clamped position.  Any position in between causes the clamp to release fully.  I don't know what I'm missing unless he changed the design. 

I see you didn't read the instructions. [tongue]  The screw at the inside of the V can be adjusted to slightly increase/reduce the cam action/clamping pressure.

 

[justinh]

Clam clamps are great for casing miters. I have 8 and could use 8 more.  I have used them elsewhere but casing is where they shine.

For 2 1/2" casing i have had good luck with Ulmia clamps at the long point and a spring clamp made by Collins tool that is a component of their Miter Tite system.  It is just a spring with two hooks on the end that dig into the outside edge of the casing and this exerts extra pressure on the short point.  I then stitch the back with an upholstery stapler.  The clamps cost about $8 a piece.

The screw at the back of the Clam Clamps doesn't adjust the clamping pressure but changes whether more pressure is exerted on the long point or short.

Justin

 

[Knight Woodworks]

Brice

Thanks for that info.

John

 

[RKA]

Thanks Brice!  I actually dug up the one page instruction sent with the clamps and he omitted any mention of that screw.  So I did read them!  [tongue]  What justinh said makes sense.  The eccentric cam is fixed on the right side of the clamp in your picture, as is the brass support on the left side.  By adjusting that pivot point you would only be increasing or decreasing pressure on the outside of the miter (long point), essentially balancing the clamping pressure across the miter.