Cleaning reclaimed lumber prior to stain

[Cabana Dan]

I apologize if this has been answered before. I searched but didn't find an answer.

I have a load of reclaimed pine (old growth) that has was the floor of a mill and in a barn (which both date to the early 1900s). I need to clean the wood and do not want to use something that would hamper my finishing efforts later. I have heard dish soap, just water and a steel brush, etc. Any recommendations?

I plan on a distressed finish, but haven't decided on it yet.

Thanks in advance.

Dan

 

[Scott B.]

I apologize if this has been answered before. I searched but didn't find an answer.

I have a load of reclaimed pine (old growth) that has was the floor of a mill and in a barn (which both date to the early 1900s). I need to clean the wood and do not want to use something that would hamper my finishing efforts later. I have heard dish soap, just water and a steel brush, etc. Any recommendations?

I plan on a distressed finish, but haven't decided on it yet.

Thanks in advance.

Dan

Hi Dan

I do a good bit of monkeying around with reclaimed. Old heart pine is nice, they don't grow that way any more.

Do you have pictures?

If I could see the current condition and get an idea of the look you are going for, I'd be happy to advise.

 

[mo siopa]

I suggest you heed Scott's advice.  Reclaimed pine is an animal unto itself.  It was likely not kiln dried and the resin pockets will probably be an issue with finishing using any modern products.  Dish soap is a new one for me.  I'm not sure exactly what it is supposed to do but I am definitely interested.

 

[Leifer]

Painter.
You want the dirt off the wood. (or the snow off the road)
Always go from easiest -- to -- hardest, until you think you are done.
.....and from water based, to solvent based.

Blow off dirt.
Brush off dirt.
Rub off dirt.
Wash with water.
Wash with soapy water.
repeat no soap.
Dry.
Rub with gentle solvent (kerosene).
Rinse with gentle solvent.

Beyond that, you'll catch fire and I want no part.

 

[Leifer]

The reason to use water and soap on old wood (after blowing) ......is that even simple sugar spills, or other layers of water-soluble gack should be addressed, and removed.

This prepares and cleans the surface.....for any solvent based rub.

A simple example would be......"a row of theater seats" vintage, sticky and dirty.
These would need a thorough water cleaning....if wanted to be re-stained. The oil stain won't penetrate dirty-rotten sweet splashes.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I would never use soap on anything that is going to be painted. Soap always leaves a residue and soap and paint are no friends.

Recommended cleaning agent for painting is an ammonia solution, which is very good at solving grease/dirt and leaves no residue. And if you don't want to use that, there are surrogates that have the same effect, though they are often a lot more expensive.

 

[Scott B.]

This works well for stain prep on reclaimed. View attachment 1

 

[Bohdan]

If you want to wash it first use sugar soap it degreases and removes water soluble gunk leaving the surface ready for finishing.

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

I just finished a coffee table for my sister.  I found some heart pine on the side of the road that was removed from a house.  I asked the owner if I could have it and he helped me load it into my truck.  The wood was pretty beat up and had a lot of square cut nails in it.  I pulled all the nails,  and went over it lightly with my ro150 to remove the dirt and any really bad rough spots. 

I built the table using my domino.  It was a pain in the butt being that the wood was twisted.  If I planed the wood it would have taken away from then look I wanted.  I jointed all the boards with my ts75.  Then used my Domino to put everything together. After the table was assembled I sanded any other areas with my ro90 and used tung oil to finish the table.

 

[Scott B.]

Very cool, Tyler!

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

I trying to figure out how to flip my pictures right side up

 

[Picktool]

Nice!

Turned ya pics over & made smaller

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

Thanks it was hard standing on the ceiling to take the pictures.

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

What projects do you have in mind with the reclaimed pine?

 

[Cheese]

I just finished a coffee table for my sister. 

Nice looking table...the wind won't blow that one over. I like the color that the wood turned using tung oil.

 

[Rollin22Petes]

Another thing you can do is use a wheel brush sander we have one in the shop we use and it works great plus you can get different grit brushes for them depending on how aggressive you want to be. Festool makes one but it's unfortunately NAINA and I think Makita is the only other option but not sure Timberwolf tools carry's them.

 

[Baartman]

I use a scotchbrite pad and my RO125.

I cut the scotchbrite pad oversize (think 150mm for a RO125).

If the wood is excessively dirty, I'll wire brush it first and remove obvious splinter hazards. A wire brush screwed to a sawzall blade works well, but use a thick blade. Wire wheels or grinders can remove too much material.

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

I just finished a coffee table for my sister. 

Nice looking table...the wind won't blow that one over. I like the color that the wood turned using tung oil.

The color did turn out good.  I played around with a couple options and the tung oil looked the best.  Its definitely a heavy table.  The top measures 58in x 40 in.

 

[Picktool]

Another thing you can do is use a wheel brush sander we have one in the shop we use and it works great plus you can get different grit brushes for them depending on how aggressive you want to be. Festool makes one but it's unfortunately NAINA and I think Makita is the only other option but not sure Timberwolf tools carry's them.

Makita 9741 $478 cheapest i've found but my pockets have holes