CMC router top plate not flat

[onevw]

I just noticed my CMS router top plate is not flat.

It's sunken down in the center long length when putting a 2-foot Woodpecker scale on the router top plate.

So it's down 10 thousand compared to the ends.

What the tolerance expected from Festool on the router top plate?

Rick

 

[FestitaMakool]

Who knows, I suspect that is something only FT may or may not have.
As it happens, for the time being I have the old and new router table. And I noticed early that the old one is at least as thick as the new one, but has in addition two fairly beefy stiffening rails on the underside, this does also incorporates a c-channel (t-track) above table for some reason.
It seems quite stiffer than the new one.

 

[xedos]

A hundredth of an inch is pretty good for woodworking in my world.  I'll bet some things on that Avanti have worse tolerances.

 

[FestitaMakool]

For woodworking it is probably not an issue. But those who work with special hardwood, joinery and very tight tolerances might opt for a dedicated spindle router instead - the CMS system is good for what it is, and will be among the best alternatives in its class. Features are taken from large stationary routers, so I think it is very well executed by FT.

 

[onevw]

A hundredth of an inch is pretty good for woodworking in my world.  I'll bet some things on that Avanti have worse tolerances.

Your talking about the Piaggio180 I guess. And yes one of the best-built aircraft you can buy today but on the first flight the bathroom door fell off just as we rotated we hoped that was not the way it was going to be for the whole flight!

 

[onevw]

From Festool USA
Hello,
Thank you for the pictures and information. The amount of gap described and pictured is within tolerance for the CMS table. Please keep in mind that the router table is made of aluminum and the weight of the router can slightly affect the way the top sits. Based on the measurements and pictures, the tabletop is within tolerance.


So If I turn the Router Plate upside down in the CMS and Leave it for some time it should go back to flat???

 

[FestitaMakool]

Ah, well it might just be the weight of your router. Try removing it, then check the plate.

Since I have done a thorough clean up of my router and tables prior to selling. I thought I could compare and post some photos of the differences of the plates:

Old plate:
[attachimg=1]

Comparison new vs old:
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]

 

[onevw]

Yes, I did remove the router and no change in the plate.

I do want to say one thing about Festool USA They did respond to my email with an answer. And they are correct the Not Flat router plate is a minor issue for me.

I have had many companies never respond.

In the past year I have had a need to contact Bora, Laguna, Festool, Rockler all with a return email and satisfactory results.

Rick

 

[Svar]

This is typical for wide extrusions. I've bent plates like this (not CMC) to make them flat using some 2x4 blocks and a car jack. Screw clamps might work as well. It's a trial and error - bend a bit, check, bend some more, etc. It springs back after each compression, but at some point will yield.

 

[Oldwood]

This is typical for wide extrusions. I've bent plates like this (not CMC) to make them flat using some 2x4 blocks and a car jack. Screw clamps might work as well. It's a trial and error - bend a bit, check, bend some more, etc. It springs back after each compression, but at some point will yield.

Good advice from Svar^
If you try this repair I would err on the side of having a slight crown. I find that is less problematic in a router table than a sunken top. You tend to apply force at or near the cutter and with a crown this eliminates the chance for snipe at the ends of your piece.

 

[FestitaMakool]

I agree with the advises here.
When “straightened” you could by your self, or visit a machine shop to have a couple of stiff aluminium profiles attached to the bottom of your table.
It would most likely mean that you would have to drill and tap a few holes (maybe also through to insert tapped insertion nuts) all to stiffen and secure the profiles or rails. Something similar to the rails of the old router table.
Strangely the extruded module on the jig saw have two c-channel profiles on the underside. The plate however is thinner.

 

[onevw]

I looked into the under reinforcement idea but did not see a good place to mount a rail with 1400 installed.

 

[FestitaMakool]

Sure, the eventual rail would be far out to each side. At the rear it could come closer though.