Confusion/Frustration Polishing Car with RO 150 FE+

[extiger]

My Festool is vintage 2006. Never used it before. Had my Toyota repainted, and waited the required 90 days before buffing.

I spent 3 hot hours yesterday morning on the hood and trunk areas, and to my eyes, the finish had more luster and depth before I started this crazy dance. Used Griot's rubbing compounds and Lake Country pads. This morning, I watched a few instructional videos on AutoGeeks website. And I think I was shooting blanks yesterday. Probably because of the terminology of machines. It didn't ease my mind.

My Festool was often called a Rotex. To me, that meant it could rotate (with a flip of lever) or it could jiggle. The Icons on the machine switch show a Circle with a rotating arrow in one position of the switch. The other position shows a Circle, and then a bunch of smaller circles inside --- each with a much smaller  rotating arrow.

I was in the latter mode. The terminology from years past would term that Random Orbital Sanding mode.

Back to my unsuccessful polish of the car. In watching the AutoGeeks videos, they use the term Dual Action Buffer for other brands of machines. And they explain that action as being enabled by a clutch mechanism. Press down real hard and the clutch stalls. For safety. Press sort of hard and the pad rotates and simultaneously oscillates. So it makes the  big circle, and then dances the small circle dance at the same time.

The demonstrator of a Porter Cable DA buffer advised viewers to make a black marking pen dot so you can verify that the pad slowly goes around, while it jiggles. I think I wasn't 'cutting' the paint at all. And needed to. The video said that by relieving pressure on the pad, it would then only oscillate and not be cutting.

The compounds I was using were the ultra fine. When that got me nowhere, I backed down one step to fine compound and then finished again with ultra fine. So one machine has Rotex. Others have Random Orbital. And several other brands have Random Orbital. What am I missing here?

 

[semenza]

Not sure if you have read these threads or not , but maybe they will help....

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/ets-1503-for-car-polishing/

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/car-polishing-with-rotex-125/

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/ro-150-best-pad-combo-for-car-polishing/

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/rotex-and-polishing-a-car/

http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/other-projects/1873-polishing-your-car-rotex-part-1-a.html

http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/other-projects/1874-polishing-your-car-rotex-part-2-a.html

Seth

 

[peter halle]

For polishing I believe that you should have been in the other mode.  Seth has posted some great links for you.

Peter

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

For polishing I believe that you should have been in the other mode.  Seth has posted some great links for you.

Yes, like Peter said, you would need to be in Rotex mode (or aggressive mode) for polishing. The easy way to tell if you're in the right mode is to try to turn the pad by hand (with the sander unplugged). If it's easy to turn, you're in Random Orbital mode. If it's harder to turn, you're in Rotex mode. It's been too long since I've used one of the older models to remember which way the switch needs to be rotated.

 

[extiger]

I'll read the links. But for a short answer, is this on track?

1st Rotex mode to start out, for more paint removal,

2nd Switch to Random Orbital for finish. Less cutting action.

Thanks.

 

[peter halle]

NO.  Sorry for the caps.  Rotary (aggressive action at various speeds based on cutting action of the compounds and your comfort level) action.  The Rotex in this mode is actually better than other polishers - certainly could be debated - because it is not entirely rotary (like a disk sander) but does also offer some action that eliminates holographs on the surface of the paint. 

PS:  I love Griot's stuff.

Peter

 

[woodie]

The random orbit mode will work for light paint correction it just takes forever to do. You don't want to apply much pressure in this mode as it will stall the action. The Porter Cable was my first polisher and I struggled with the same frustrating results. Hours spent and little to no difference to the finish. Truthfully I'm not sure why so many people recommend the PC (or any random orbital)... sure you're less likely to damage the finish on your car but you're also less likely to improve it.

I purchased a FLEX XC 3401 VRG several years ago and ditched my PC. The 3401 gives you the safety benefit of a random orbit polisher but the rotation is gear driven so you can apply pressure and not stall the polisher.  It's great for doing light correction and working on highly contoured panels. You can do heavier paint correction with it too, it just takes a little longer to break the polish down.

If you want to use the RO150, the rotary mode is definitely your best option.  Use this mode cautiously as you can burn through clear coat if you're not careful. Work small areas at a time and be sure to allow the polish to "break down". Allowing polish to fully break down is really important.

 

[extiger]

Thanks. I think I understand my error.

I didn't want to wander  off track too much, but my way of doing things is rooted in my age. 70. I've restored 8 antique automobiles, mostly from the 30's. But 1 1947 Lincoln Continental. Painted them myself with lacquer. In the driveway. Learned buffing and polishing with an old Sioux grinder. It must have weighed 40lbs.

So, the watchword was 'caution'. go slow. little pressure. Very easy to burn through the paint. The new modern finishes are extremely hard and durable. So tomorrow, when I pick up the Festool and go at that car again, I will attack it with fury. I want to see that paint dust fly.

I got inspired to do this after taking my engineer friend over see the shop facility of Beverly Hills Ferrari. No kidding. My friend Adolfo manages the place. About a mile from home near Santa Monica. They had about 40 cars in there, including two racing jobs. Even some of those had mediocre paint jobs. Not so much the painting, but the deterioration of the finish. An Italian guy was buffing out the hood and fenders of deep maroon car. You can't blame me for getting inspired.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I should have mentioned, lower the speed to 2-3 for polishing.

 

[extiger]

Understood, Shane.

 

[leakyroof]

Thanks. I think I understand my error.

I didn't want to wander  off track too much, but my way of doing things is rooted in my age. 70. I've restored 8 antique automobiles, mostly from the 30's. But 1 1947 Lincoln Continental. Painted them myself with lacquer. In the driveway. Learned buffing and polishing with an old Sioux grinder. It must have weighed 40lbs.

So, the watchword was 'caution'. go slow. little pressure. Very easy to burn through the paint. The new modern finishes are extremely hard and durable. So tomorrow, when I pick up the Festool and go at that car again, I will attack it with fury. I want to see that paint dust fly.

I got inspired to do this after taking my engineer friend over see the shop facility of Beverly Hills Ferrari. No kidding. My friend Adolfo manages the place. About a mile from home near Santa Monica. They had about 40 cars in there, including two racing jobs. Even some of those had mediocre paint jobs. Not so much the painting, but the deterioration of the finish. An Italian guy was buffing out the hood and fenders of deep maroon car. You can't blame me for getting inspired.

As someone who works on cars, and owns a Festool Shinex...Maybe attacking with fury is too strong... Go carefully , as repainting with the current auto finishes is not like your Lacquer days [blink]