Connecting 2 guide rails to produce an accurate reference edge?

MMCO

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I am finishing up my transition from a cabinet saw to MFT tables and track saws. I have a number of guide rails but none are longer than 1900mm (75"). My question, can you achieve an accurate reference edge on a 4' x 8' piece of material by connecting two rails or should I buy the longer guide rail? Obviously, I could cut down the 4x8 sheet and then reference each piece separately, but I am looking to save some time.
 
It can definitely be done. Lots of people do this every day. I single long rail is quicker/easier, but presents storage issues.
Two shorter rails, like your 1900 and a 1400, along with some kind of straight edge to align them, are far more portable and store easier too.
 
It can definitely be done. Lots of people do this every day. I single long rail is quicker/easier, but presents storage issues.
Two shorter rails, like your 1900 and a 1400, along with some kind of straight edge to align them, are far more portable and store easier too.
Thank you, that was the answer I was hoping for after I looked at the significant jump in cost for the longer rails compare to the shorter ones.
 
I use a 3rd 1400 when connecting two other 1400s. Or a 800, depending on what I have with me.

If I ever live with more space, ceiling height and money... I will still buy a 3000 rail.
But as with more things Festool this might be a 10 year plan thing.. I tend to look forward a bit... like I got the LR-32 1400 as second rail years before I got the LR-32 set.
Maybe by then Festool will have finally released a holey (LR 32) 3000
 
For the most reliable results, a straight edge (or a 3rd rail functioning as a straight edge) is helpful. I have found that relying on the squareness of the end cuts on the railing to result in a straight edge is not a “best practice”. A 4’ long aluminum ruler is an inexpensive way to accomplish this.
 
When you combine rails, you shouldn't butt them up tight - the rail ends are not necessarily cut square. Leave some space - they have been this way since the beginning.

Peter
 
For the most reliable results, a straight edge (or a 3rd rail functioning as a straight edge) is helpful. I have found that relying on the squareness of the end cuts on the railing to result in a straight edge is not a “best practice”. A 4’ long aluminum ruler is an inexpensive way to accomplish this.
+1
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To add a couple oblique comments of mine:
- keep note that you must use either Makita (advised) or the old-type Festool non-self-aligning connectors when using a straight edge/3rd rail for reference
- be mindful of the bend of the rail when placing it - the anti-slip strips are so strong the rail can be bent up to 0.5 mm over a 2 m distance and the anti-slip strips will just hold it that way without a complaint ..

The second point is actually a bigger concern in practice that single rail versus a joined rail. Thankfully, it is relatively easy to address as long as one is conscious of it.
 
I tend to look forward a bit... like I got the LR-32 1400 as second rail years before I got the LR-32 set.
Maybe by then Festool will have finally released a holey (LR 32) 3000
I was advised, by my dealer, to do that too. When I got my first TS55, I had no idea about the LR32 system, but I did listen. At that point, there was no difference in cost (in NA) so why not?
Is the 2424 rail not available there?
I had to wait a few days, to get it shipped from FUSA to my dealer, but I got one. I have only used it for that once, but it is still nice to have.
 
I do this all the time, but I use the third rail from the back (of the two connected) as a reference guide. I clamp it at four points with flash clamps, then tighten the connector screws only afterward.
 
At that point, there was no difference in cost (in NA) so why not?
Is the 2424 rail not available there?
There was always a cost increase for holey rail where I live.
Yes we have a LR-32 version of the 2424, but what good will it do me? Still too short for ceiling height cabinets and also still too short to cut 2440mm sheet goods. My 3rd rail was also a holey 1400.
 
There are two ways manufacturers make cut-offs on extrusions. The first way is to make 12’ to 20’ long “sticks” and cut to length from the sticks. The advantage is that they can get very accurate cuts for squareness. The disadvantage is that they can generate a fair amount of scrap and it is labor intensive.

The second way is a “flying cutoff” at the extrusion line, resulting in no scrap and minimal to no labor cost. The squareness of the cutoff was quite poor in early iterations, but later that was much improved. Depending upon how new their equipment is, the squareness can be quite good or quite bad.

I have no idea how Festool makes the cutoffs.

This YouTube video demonstrates a modern flying cutoff line. Note that aluminum extrusion lines run quite slow as they need to let the aluminum to cool off as it leaves the extrusion dies or it will warp or won’t be dimensionally accurate across the profile. When you see extrusions that are not arrow-straight it is likely that the manufacturer was trying to maximize profits by running the extrusion line too fast.

The slow feed rate is a benefit when using a flying cutoff.

 
There was always a cost increase for holey rail where I live.
Yes we have a LR-32 version of the 2424, but what good will it do me? Still too short for ceiling height cabinets and also still too short to cut 2440mm sheet goods. My 3rd rail was also a holey 1400.
So, join two 1400mm LR 32 holy rails using the Guide Rail Index LA-LR 32 FS (Item number 496938) to get the spacing right and two Connector FSV/2 (Item number 577039) to keep the rails lined up and spaced right as you use them. Problem?
 
So, join two 1400mm LR 32 holy rails using the Guide Rail Index LA-LR 32 FS (Item number 496938) to get the spacing right and two Connector FSV/2 (Item number 577039) to keep the rails lined up and spaced right as you use them.
Yes, but the spacing only when actually using the LR-32

Still not 3 meter, not as easy to move as one 3m rail.
 
There was always a cost increase for holey rail where I live.
Yes we have a LR-32 version of the 2424, but what good will it do me? Still too short for ceiling height cabinets and also still too short to cut 2440mm sheet goods. My 3rd rail was also a holey 1400.
If you really do need the full 3 meters, then yes, that's a problem.
We definitely do make cabinets that are that high too (on a 5 x 12 CNC) but that is in a commercial cabinet shop. It is also for clients that have huge spaces. In a residential situation, getting something like that in the door, would be a problem. Even if someone would want that, it would likely be built in two pieces.
I don't know if I will ever need the full length of the 2424, but it has been used in cases where the 1400 was not enough.
 
I've done lengths of about 2500, so doabble with 2*1400
The 2424 rail would have been too short or at best the base would have partly run off the rail.

No clue where they came up with 2424

I think there also used to be a holey version of the 1080?
 
I just align the tracks face down on the outside reference of a sheet of MDF or plywood, then tighten the connectors. Also place a measuring tick mark on the cut line near the joint just as a reference.

The LR32 guide rails are a bit different in consideration if you are using for line boring - the slot holes will not be correctly aligned with 32mm spacing between the slots if butting two rails together. Don't ask how I discovered this over 20 years ago.. how time flies.
 
Second the Betterley. While you can cinch it up, it can slip if you're manhandling it - the betterley is a quick simple piece of mind to reassure your track assembly is still colinear.
 
I just align the tracks face down on the outside reference of a sheet of MDF or plywood, then tighten the connectors. Also place a measuring tick mark on the cut line near the joint just as a reference.

The LR32 guide rails are a bit different in consideration if you are using for line boring - the slot holes will not be correctly aligned with 32mm spacing between the slots if butting two rails together. Don't ask how I discovered this over 20 years ago.. how time flies.
IF you are using the LR32 rails and are trying to maintain the hole spacing you need to use an end stop as a spacer while tightening the connectors I believe.

Peter
 
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