Curved stair

Rob-GB

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Nov 7, 2009
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The architects vision.

Joy%252520Lane%2525202.jpg


The means to the end require formers to build around, for both inner and outer strings. This is for the inner with the smallest radius.

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I made two veneers of pine 3.8mm thick to wrap around the core of solid and staved pine components all glued with Cascamite, the battens are screwed to the whole thing to keep it “clamped”.

DSC00922.JPG


The outer was formed in a similar manner but from 8mm flexi ply, I then cut all the tread and riser apertures with a combination of the Trion and TS55 with a little fettling from a Jap saw and 2” chisel…my fault I should of ordered some more Festool blades for the Trion.  [embarassed] Then I started to fit treads and risers…

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It took a while but I got there…

Built.JPG


The shame of it is the sides will be covered in plasterboard (drywall) and the rest in carpet! [sad]
Oh well, kept me occupied for a few days.
Cheers for looking.
Rob.
 
Rob

Looks great, how do you find using MDF for treads and risers, does it split the tread when you screw the the riser to the tread. What is the thickness of the strings, And how did you work out how thick the strings should be.
 
That's really impressive! I sort of get a headache trying to figure out how you calculated all that  [huh]
 
[scared] nice!  Very impressed! 

I know anything curved is a pain and these curved stairs would of been a head scratcher  I'm Sure!

Nice!

Jmb
 
bellchippy said:
Rob

Looks great, how do you find using MDF for treads and risers, does it split the tread when you screw the the riser to the tread. What is the thickness of the strings, And how did you work out how thick the strings should be.

Always use the best quality MDF you can buy i.e. not the stuff that goes all fluffy when cut, min 25mm thick for treads. Pine string is 38mm flexi ply one 42mm. Lastly, from experience mostly.

[quote author=nydesign]That's really impressive! I sort of get a headache trying to figure out how you calculated all that [/quote]

I draw everything in Autocad first and take it from there.

Thanks rookie08.

  [quote author=jmbfestool] nice!  Very impressed! 

I know anything curved is a pain and these curved stairs would of been a head scratcher  I'm Sure! [/quote]

Pain! no! It's good fun and what I love about this job. Anything curved generally incurrs greater costs though due to added wastage and set up costs it entails, getting some customers to understand that fact is often harder than the project! [wink]

Thanks for all your kind remarks,
Rob.

 
Looks much better than the architects drawing. I like how the risers angle back, this should create a nice shadow line when installed.
Your stairs look slightly wider than the drawing, are they? 
I know it's not your design but the height of the stair walls/railings in the drawing make the stairs look like a tunnel.
Tim
 
This is OT but what's the cool looking machine behind the stairs in the last photo?  [cool]
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Looks much better than the architects drawing. I like how the risers angle back, this should create a nice shadow line when installed.
Your stairs look slightly wider than the drawing, are they? 
I know it's not your design but the height of the stair walls/railings in the drawing make the stairs look like a tunnel.
Tim

Er! No actually, they are slimmer by two outside skins of gyproc/drywall....but you got me worried just then and I had to review the drawing [eek] ;D
We had renders of another job that looked even more claustrophobic but it seems to be the in thing at the moment. I am sure in the whole context of the build the design will be a natural fit, from the drawings I have seen and our site survey it will be a light and airy home with some nice modern features.

Cheers, Rob.
 
nydesign said:
This is OT but what's the cool looking machine behind the stairs in the last photo?  [cool]

That is a four sider, it is alledged that it will plane, thickness and spit out perfectly square and micrometer perfect dimensioned lengths of wood.....which it does most of the time until you need to replcate something you put through that morning before someone used it on another project..then  [doh] [dead horse] [bite tongue] useful bit of kit 98% of the time  ;D

Rob.
 
Hi Matt, firstly thank you for your kind comment, next, not seen anything marketed as such, but do know it can be done using a set of matching spindle cutters, and does not need to be a shown in the example. The technique has it's uses but does involve a fair amount of sanding and a lot of glue lines (that may not suit every client) in some situations it does negate the old short grain issues though.
It is also a short step away from the old bundled dowel rods method of forming a handrail, something I would love to see an example of outside of a book. ;D

Rob.
 
Rob-GB said:
...but you got me worried just then and I had to review the drawing [eek] ;D

Sorry about that didn't mean to scare you...my own bias.
I hate that sinking feeling when I think something might be the wrong size...it's nice to find out that it's right when you check though.
Tim
 
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