cut stair stringers with ts55 saw??

[Zaphod]

Greetings,

Anyone try to cut stair stringers with a ts55 saw?  I purchased the saw about six months ago and have been very pleased; so much so that I sold my pc 743.  I'm now in the process of building outdoor stairs and wish I still had the PC saw to cut the stringers.  The cut indicators on the ts55 are somewhat useful, but one really needs to see exactly where the cut line is to accurately cut stringers. 

I've pondered making a type of right angle jig which accounts for the offset between the blade and edge of the saw make the riser cut and another for the run cut.

Alternatively, I could use my 1400 guide rail, clamps, and the stop but this seems like it would take an eternity to accurately cut three stringers.

Thanks,

Zaphod

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      How about a jig saw?

Seth

 

[Kevin Johnson]

I have not felt confident using my TS55 off the rail, it does not feel right to me.  When I am cutting stringers I usually use a either my worm drive or my sidewinder.  However, if I were inclined to use the TS55 I think that you would need to use the rail and set the depth to full so that you can use the marks on the saw for your end points.  Then finish off with a handsaw or jigsaw.

 

[greg mann]

Using an MFS with the side stops would allow for easy movement along the stringer. I think ther is an illustration of this in the 2007 catalog albeit with the 1400 router, not the saw. I think a template for the jigsaw isn't a bad idea either.

 

[Lou Miller]

I've used my 55 for a lot cuts like stringers, square cutouts etc. I started out using the stops on the rails. They work okay, but they do take some fooling with to get them just right. Maybe I've just grown comfortable with the saw, but I've done away with the stops now. I still use the rail, but I stop and start my cuts by eye. I'm very happy using the 55 now. I used to reach for the wormdrive or a PC trim saw for stuff like this at first, but not any longer. IMO, its just a matter of getting familiar with the saw as its not the easiest one to see the cutline with. It can be done somewhat easily once you get used to it though (and I'm blind in one eye, so if I can do it, anyone can). I had to trim out the sides of a set of steps (15 treads and 14 risers) recently with 12" wide maple. Using the 55 was a piece of cake to notch around the risers and treads. What really worked great was after the initial cuts were done, I was able to scribe everything in with ease. Taking off 1/32" is so much easier with the 55 than it ever was with a worm or a trim saw. Of course I had to finish the inside corners with a hand saw, but the cuts looked perfect. 

I never use the saw without the rails. I don't like it one bit. I had a couple of kickbacks the first few times I tried it, and have just decided to never do it again. As long as the rails are used, I've found that I can make a plunge cut, and actually back the saw up some (very slowly of course) to get right up to my layout lines. I don't know if that's something Festool suggests doing (most likely they don't), but it's surprisingly easy if you use the rails. Without the rails, forget about it. Getting an 800 rail for smaller cuts makes a big difference over the 1400 rails too, especially when making notches for stringers, cutouts, etc.

 

[Corwin]

I started out using the stops on the rails. They work okay, but they do take some fooling with to get them just right.

For a given depth of cut, with the blade lowered you could measure the distance from the leading tooth to the leading edge of the saw where it would engage with the stop.  Test on some scrap and make a list for future use.  And, you could share these results here...     

I never use the saw without the rails. I don't like it one bit. I had a couple of kickbacks the first few times I tried it, and have just decided to never do it again.

Same here.

Corwin

 

[The Dude]

I have not felt confident using my TS55 off the rail, it does not feel right to me.  When I am cutting stringers I usually use a either my worm drive or my sidewinder.  However, if I were inclined to use the TS55 I think that you would need to use the rail and set the depth to full so that you can use the marks on the saw for your end points.  Then finish off with a handsaw or jigsaw.

Perfect Kevin!  Using the FS 800 rail makes the job a bit less awkward.  I use this technique to cut in windows for doors...

Timmy C

 

[Zaphod]

I did use the TS55, 28T blade, and guide rail to cut three stringers.  It was extremely accurate and very slow.  The routine was to clamp the 2x12 stringer to the workbench, align and clamp the guide rail, cut, reposition stringer if necessary, clamp, position guide, clamp, cut, repeat.  I was pleased that the stop worked perfectly to control the saw while making plunge cuts; simply position the saw's rear cut indicator mark on your mark, slide the stop to the saw, tighten, and cut.  Finished the inside corners with a jigsaw.  Between thirty six cuts on three stringers, the largest variance is 1/16".  Took a few hours to complete all cuts.