Cutting 4 inch slab?

[JeremyH.]

Hey guys, what would you recommend for ripping and cross cutting 4 inch slab? It would need to be squared out.

 

[mastercabman]

A slab of what?

 

[RJNeal]

Jeremy, what tools do you have available ?
Rick

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Either one of my table saws or my bandsaw.

 

[JeremyH.]

Maple.

The table saw I can use is smaller blades so I can do it if I flip it. Squaring is hard though because it requires a sawbox and then much less blade is available. I thought there might be some other thoughts. For a bit I was looking at large circular saws that go on tracks. 

 

[tbellemare]

I think I'd use a Trion with the Guide Stop, S 145/4 FSG blade, and full eccentric motion.

Don't forget to set the blade guides properly...

Tom

 

[Birdhunter]

Understand the slab is 4" thick, but what are its other dimensions?

 

[JeremyH.]

A range of custom cuts from 12 to 24 in would be typical. A jigsaw with a good blade and track was a thought of mine! I just haven't tried it to know. I'd hope a good jigsaw can take doing it for a long time.

 

[JeremyH.]

Would a radial arm saw work well?

 

[jacko9]

Bowsaw is the weapon of choice for splitting very wide planks.  I've resawn 24" wide slabs with a sharp bowsaw without any problems.

jack

 

[JeremyH.]

With some guides?

 

[jacko9]

With some guides?

Pencil line and patience.  A Bow saw is cheap but it takes a "lot" of work.  now I just got a catalog from Timberwolf so if your serious about cutting big slabs check out their web site.

Jack

 

[JeremyH.]

Oh, I know about Mafell and Protool....

A radial arm saw seems to make sense for a nice cut. They're high power should be straight and just enough depth. Or am I wrong?

The Bow Saw seems like I'd end up without a straight cut.

 

[jacko9]

Oh, I know about Mafell and Protool....

A radial arm saw seems to make sense for a nice cut. They're high power should be straight and just enough depth. Or am I wrong?

The Bow Saw seems like I'd end up without a straight cut.

With 12 - 20" wide stock you might want to consider ripping it to narrow widths and then use the bandsaw to get the thickness you want, you can then use your domino joiner to register off your one flat side and glue the piece back to the width you need.

If you use your thickness planer you can get both pieces the same thickness and your domino will register them in the same plane for gluing them back to the wider piece you need.  Most times the grain will align quite nicely with just a little shift in the length so cut the pieces a little longer than needed.

Jack

 

[JeremyH.]

I can't sell it then... or not for anymore than a cutting board. The point is that it's an uninterrupted slab.

 

[jacko9]

I can't sell it then... or not for anymore than a cutting board. The point is that it's an uninterrupted slab.

Glue up that matches is pretty tricky but it can be done with careful alignment.  If you decide that you need an uninteruppted width, the hand bowsaw is still a viable option.  Cut to the marked line and plane to the line - it works.

Jack

 

[flair woodworks]

A jigsaw and rail is a good option.  Another way is to use a table saw or tracksaw as deep as you can go, then finish the cut from the other side, erring on the waste side, and finishing up with a flush-trim router bit.

 

[Bohdan]

Perfect solution but I don't know if its available in NA.

 

[peter halle]

If you were to try the jigsaw on a rail for a cut that thick you may have some issues.  Just as you get drift with a bandsaw you may get drift with a jigsaw blade that long.  From what I have read here in other threads about the Carvex and the rail together Festool does not recommend that combo on material as thick as yours.

Peter

 

[JeremyH.]

I'd choose the Mafell Jigsaw, in this case.

The flush bit for the router after cutting and flipping is actually a pretty darn good idea! I'll have to look into it.