Cutting solid surface worktops

[Woodchippie]

Which blade would be best to cut bush board Encore worktop?

I have a 48 tooth blade for my ts55, but would a finer blade be better, safer and not chip the surface?

I wondered if anyone has any experience of cutting these worktops,and could I get a good enough cut from ts55 (blade dependant)so I would have to use the router for a straight joint.

 

[Phil Beckley]

Hi
I have worked with this type of material and the Laminate blade will be best. Great cut and longer life due to the bevels.
https://www.festool.co.uk/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=496308&name=Special-saw-blade-160x2-2x20-TF48
rg
Phil

 

[tjbnwi]

Are you justing cutting to size or cutting and joining?

If you are just cutting to size the blade Phil link is what you need. If you're cutting and joining you will have to mirror cut the joint location with a router run on the guide rail.

Tom

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Woodchippie,

I have cut Encore on many occasions with both my TS55 and TS75 saws. I initially bought the TS75 specifically for this job. I did get the Corian/Solid Surface specific blade for the TS75 and it cut the material clean enough that I had no need to rout the mating edges.

I think Festool do a Solid Surface blade to fit the TS55, but I'm not sure of the part number, sorry.

Regards, Tim.

 

[Sparktrician]

Woodchippie,

I have cut Encore on many occasions with both my TS55 and TS75 saws. I initially bought the TS75 specifically for this job. I did get the Corian/Solid Surface specific blade for the TS75 and it cut the material clean enough that I had no need to rout the mating edges.

I think Festool do a Solid Surface blade to fit the TS55, but I'm not sure of the part number, sorry.

Regards, Tim.

The blade is this - Solid Surface / Laminate 48-Tooth Saw Blade - 496309 (at least in NA).

 

[Woodchippie]

Are you justing cutting to size or cutting and joining?

If you are just cutting to size the blade Phil link is what you need. If you're cutting and joining you will have to mirror cut the joint location with a router run on the guide rail.

Tom

Cutting and joining, I need to increase the depth front to back, so I need to join some 2" lengths along the back. Didn't know if I could do it from the saw cut if fine enough?
John

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

According to the sites selling this type of blade in the UK, the part number is 496308....???
Here's a link.  http://www.powertool-supplies.co.uk/festool-special-saw-blade-160x2-2x20-tf48.html?gclid=CNL2_tbT08UCFerjwgodqCAA6A

 

[Woodchippie]

According to the sites selling this type of blade in the UK, the part number is 496308....???
Here's a link.  http://www.powertool-supplies.co.uk/festool-special-saw-blade-160x2-2x20-tf48.html?gclid=CNL2_tbT08UCFerjwgodqCAA6A

Yes, looking at the responses I've received from everyone that is the blade to go for.
Thanks john

 

[tjbnwi]

Are you justing cutting to size or cutting and joining?

If you are just cutting to size the blade Phil link is what you need. If you're cutting and joining you will have to mirror cut the joint location with a router run on the guide rail.

Tom

Cutting and joining, I need to increase the depth front to back, so I need to join some 2" lengths along the back. Didn't know if I could do it from the saw cut if fine enough?
John

If you do not want to see the seam you have to mirror cut the material with a router. You can mirror cut with the TS, but the seam is not anywhere near as good.

It's not a matter of the top surface condition, it's a matter of how well the edges match each other.

Add pieces wide than you need than trim the width.

The blade with the green and red stripes is the one you need to cut solid surface.

Tom

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

John, I have a load of pictures that I took of a few sets of tops that I fabricated out of Encore. A few of them had additional sections added to them exactly as you have just described.

Just keep your blade sharp and don't try and cut too quickly. The Encore solid surface material cuts fine, its the chipboard core that makes it harder work, especially with an overall thickness of 44mm!

Tim.

 

[Woodchippie]

John, I have a load of pictures that I took of a few sets of tops that I fabricated out of Encore. A few of them had additional sections added to them exactly as you have just described.

Just keep your blade sharp and don't try and cut too quickly. The Encore solid surface material cuts fine, its the chipboard core that makes it harder work, especially with an overall thickness of 44mm!

Tim.

Cheers Tim, This is 30mm encore. It's been a while since I last used solid surface. And due to to design change because of a larger free standing boiler being fitted instead of the original one.  It's left me with a lot of alterations to the original design.
John

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Ah, I see.
I've never fitted 30mm Encore in a kitchen, only in bathrooms!!!! Bushboard do a few different colours in the 30mm that aren't available in the 44mm I think. Is that the reason you're using 30mm and not 44mm?

Either way, at least it will be easier to cut!!!!!

How are you planning on holding the additional 50mm sections in place whilst the adhesive sets? Biscuits? Domino's perhaps? and edging clamps.

 

[joiner1970]

I've been watching a couple of videos on encore lately and I'd guess any fine blade would do as the final trim should be done with a router anyway. That's what they seem to advise.

 

[Woodchippie]

Ah, I see.
I've never fitted 30mm Encore in a kitchen, only in bathrooms!!!! Bushboard do a few different colours in the 30mm that aren't available in the 44mm I think. Is that the reason you're using 30mm and not 44mm?

Either way, at least it will be easier to cut!!!!!

How are you planning on holding the additional 50mm sections in place whilst the adhesive sets? Biscuits? Domino's perhaps? and edging clamps.

This is a Jewson kitchen design and supply. I was recommended to the customer by a neighbour of theirs to install it.
The 50 mm peices, I thought possible screw it with the adhesive. It would only be a couple of 600 mm lengths. I have a biscuit jointer and domino if needed. Probably purchase some edge clamps, as there is a lot of edging to do. The boiler has to be accessible from the top.
John

 

[Woodchippie]

New blade turned up yesterday(https://www.festool.co.uk/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=496308&name=Special-saw-blade-160x2-2x20-TF48), just in time to start worktops. Its been a long hard day, but I had the pleasure of using alot of my Festool kit.
Ive added a few photos, the blade went through the Solid surface worktops  like a hot knife through butter.

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4]

I also had to join some 25mm strips to the back to make it deeper for the boiler. I joined them straight from the saw cut without a problem.[attachimg=5]

 

[Woodchippie]

The Rotex made short work of the sanding. I tried some of the Norton abrasives that came with the installers kit. There not bad but cause there's so many holes all the dust doesn't get extracted.[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=5]

 

[joiner1970]

Looking good, would love to have a go at some solid surface

 

[blaszcsj]

When doing a butt joint i just use my track saw, the festool SS blade, put the two pieces against eachother and go right down the middle. I can not even see a seam after glue up. It is way faster and easier than a router.