Cutting the FS Rail?

[onocoffee]

I've been thinking about shorter rails, like the 800 or 1080. I remember Mino was pretty convincing on why the 1080 rail is the better choice. I currently have a 1400 rail and was thinking about getting the FS Rail Set that comes with two 1400 rails, connectors, clamps and bag for $400, but three 1400 rails seems a bit superfluous (especially when the 100th Anniversary rail comes out).

With this in mind, I was thinking that I could cut my current 1400 rail into 1000 and 400 sections. The 400 would give me a piece to attach to the 1400 for sheet crosscuts much like the TSO add-on rail, and I could use the 1000 for general short cuts.

What is the best way to cut the rail? Maybe a 80T non-ferrous blade on a sliding compound miter saw? Put the blade in a table saw?

Thanks!

 

[luvmytoolz]

Personally I'd sell two 1400's and get a 3m or 2.7m. I got an 800 with my first saw circa ~1980 and I haven't used it in probably 30 odd years at least. Just found it that little too awkward a size.

 

[tjbnwi]

The TS-55 or Kapex will easily cut the rail. We cut aluminum all the time with either.

Tom

 

[peter halle]

When I attended a Festool event at an out of town event that I fly to, a friend and member here gave me a damaged uiderail. I brought it to the show and asked if they would cut it as part of a Kapex demo. Handed it to Brent Shively, put it in the Kapex with the standard blade and after getting rid of the damaged area I had two pieces small enough to put in my luggage and that was the only aluminum demo of the day.

 

[onocoffee]

Personally I'd sell two 1400's and get a 3m or 2.7m. I got an 800 with my first saw circa ~1980 and I haven't used it in probably 30 odd years at least. Just found it that little too awkward a size.

I hear you. However, it is a rare occasion for me to rip 4'x8' sheet goods. And as cool as it might be to have the 3000, its a bit impractical to store in my smaller sized shop.

 

[derekcohen]

I've been thinking about shorter rails, like the 800 or 1080. I remember Mino was pretty convincing on why the 1080 rail is the better choice. I currently have a 1400 rail and was thinking about getting the FS Rail Set that comes with two 1400 rails, connectors, clamps and bag for $400, but three 1400 rails seems a bit superfluous (especially when the 100th Anniversary rail comes out).

With this in mind, I was thinking that I could cut my current 1400 rail into 1000 and 400 sections. The 400 would give me a piece to attach to the 1400 for sheet crosscuts much like the TSO add-on rail, and I could use the 1000 for general short cuts.

What is the best way to cut the rail? Maybe a 80T non-ferrous blade on a sliding compound miter saw? Put the blade in a table saw?

Thanks!

I was in the market for a 800 rail for my MFT, and was offered a new 1400 for less than a new 800. I decided that I would cut it, and then connectors could take it back to 1400 when needed.

The track was cut on a Slider. Any table saw or mitre saw can do this. Carbide blade tips eat aluminium for breakfast

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Coen]

Yeah for the 3000 it's handy to have (near) 3000 as ceiling height.

 

[semenza]

Yup, miter saw with regular wood (carbide) blade. I cut a few over the years. I made sure the rail was held down well just in case a tooth caught a lip, channel groove, etc.

Seth

 

[jeffinsgf]

Only problem with cutting aluminum with your woodworking saw is finding aluminum shavings for the next 5 years.

 

[semenza]

Only problem with cutting aluminum with your woodworking saw is finding aluminum shavings for the next 5 years.

Yeah, there is that. I think I may have moved excess objects out of the general saw area, and maybe added some additional "shielding" in the form of cardboard or plywood pieces to block shavings. Made getting at the aluminum "dust" easier with the vac for clean up.

Seth