Deeper tenon

kclark

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Joined
Dec 31, 2012
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I was working on a project yesterday and ran into not a problem since I got it worked out but lets just say a slow down zone. I was working on a gate project with rails and stiles that are 2" X 2". I was able to do the rails easily by setting my face plate at 15mm and flipping from one face (top then bottom) to the other. But when it came time to do the stiles, I could do one 15mm spacing but I had to freehand the second domino as I couldn't drop the face plate enough as the second domino would have been 38mm and the faceplate only goes to 30mm. So my question I guess would be how do others handle tenons that are further than 30mm away from the face plate of the domino or is there an aftermarket add on that can move the face plate beyond 30mm. I hope this makes sense.
 
Draw a line through the horizontal axis of the location into which you want to place a mortise.  Then carefully line up the ears on the baseplate with the line, find your center and plunge away.  I know my terminology isn't dead-on accurate.  Look straight in at the bit.  It oscillates right-left.  Follow the centerline of the bit's oscillation and you'll find the fixed ears at the edges of the baseplate.  They are precisely 10mm above the bottom of the baseplate. 

Edit: The attached PDF file will help you visualize the line across the ears.  It's the red line. 
 

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Thanks for the reply and that makes perfect sense but it really doesn't help me in what I was doing yesterday. Not that your tip isn't great or bad timing, it's just that I was using 2"X2" stock and the "ears" are not seen on something that narrow.
 
I have needed to do that type of mortise placement only a couple of times. I make a platform (shim) for the Domino to sit on that places the mortise at  the correct height. I butt the wood to be mortised against the platform and clamp everything down. I only have to do a left-right alignment using pencil marks. The mortise height is maintained by the platform.
 
Mark center of the material than a line centered where you want it. clamp your material onto a table and find a shim to bring the center of the domino bit to the center of our material from the table top. Than line your marks up and plungr away.
 
If the thickness was constant, could one reference from both the top and bottom sides?
 
bird hunter and taylor mann could you possibly have a drawing or picture of what you are saying. I'm having a little difficulty in fully picturing what you are saying.
 
I don't know how to insert a drawing so I'll try words.

If you wanted the tenon exactly in the middle of a 2" thick board, the center line for the mortise would be 1" from both the top and the bottom of the board.

The center line on my Domino 500 is 10mm up from the sole plate.

If I had the board clamped to my work bench and had the Domino resting on the bench with the fence in the vertical position, and cut a mortise, the mortise centerline would be 10mm from the bottom of the 2" board and from the surface of my bench.

So, I need to rest the Domino's sole plate on something that will elevate the Domino 1" less 10mm. That's the shim I mentioned.

You would butt the shim up against the 2" board and rest the Domino on that shim. Then you would plunge into the 2" board. The centerline of the mortise would be centered 1" from the top and bottom of the 2" board.

The fence is not used at all using this method.

If you are using a Domino 700, the 10mm might be a different number.

I hope this helps.
 
The title of the thread could almost be the title for a lover song.
(I am morticfied)
 
Using the quick sketchup image this might make it a little clearer about what I am referring to. I hope.
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In my opinion, the mortises in the vertical piece are done WRONG. They are off by 90 degrees. Rotating them makes everything a piece of cake(assuming the stock is square and the same size).

HTH
 
They would be correct the horizontal piece would rotate 90 degrees so that it butts into the vertical piece. this is for a gate at the top of stairs in my home.
 
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