Difference between C- and T- drills

daviszr1

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Aug 25, 2008
Messages
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Okay, I searched back to 2010 for this and couldn't find anything.  The Festool site is it's usual unhelpful self.  What's the difference between the C-body and T-body drills?  Why would one choose a C-12 over a T-12, for example.  The CSX is a different animal, so that's not an issue.  Is it just the design of the handle?

 
Hey Ben,  I asked the same question today at the hands on at Connect.  T and C's function exactly the same way the difference is in the ergonomics.  The C puts your hand more directly behind the axis of the drill bit or screwdriver,,, giving what feels to me, better leverage.  The T feels more like a traditional cordless drill.  It all comes down to which feels better to YOU in your hands.  You will know right away when you try them both at the same time.
 
Jim covered it. The C drills are the same as there T counterparts.  Only difference is in how they are intended to be held.  Here is a picture to show how the C drills are intended to be held.

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You can see from the picture the C drills are held like a corded drill with the hand up high on the drill body.  As Jim pointed out the advantage is having your arm more inline with the drilling axis.  This means less effort or pushing on your part to drive and drill. 

Warning, the following is personal opinion and not everyone will share this view.

The theory of being inline with the drilling axis works well when you can get you body inline with the drill.  This works very well on the small size of the CXS but.....on the larger C drills I find it to be more of a liability than asset in some situations.  When reaching up, down or sideways, I find the C drills are harder to apply force than the T drills.  This is mainly because of the elongated trigger on the C drills.  The long trigger doesn't allow you to get more than your pinky on the main grip.  The index finger and thumb are on the upper body of the drill and don't add much in the way of grip.  The middle and ring fingers are on the trigger and don't provide any grip on the drill to apply force.  This means a much weaker grip on the drill and subsequently less force can be applied to the drill when reaching.  For this reason I find the T drills to be better suited for the general construction type work I do.       
 
Brice Burrell said:
Warning, the following is personal opinion and not everyone will share this view.

The theory of being inline with the drilling axis works well when you can get you body inline with the drill.  This works very well on the small size of the CXS but.....on the larger C drills I find it to be more of a liability than asset in some situations.  When reaching up, down or sideways, I find the C drills are harder to apply force than the T drills.  This is mainly because of the elongated trigger on the C drills.  The long trigger doesn't allow you to get more than your pinky on the main grip.  The index finger and thumb are on the upper body of the drill and don't add much in the way of grip.  The middle and ring fingers are on the trigger and don't provide any grip on the drill to apply force.  This means a much weaker grip on the drill and subsequently less force can be applied to the drill when reaching.  For this reason I find the T drills to be better suited for the general construction type work I do.       

Good point Brice, I never thought of that.  Jeez, just when I thought I had it all figured out on which to buy, you got me back on the fence again!
 
Jim Kirkpatrick said:
Brice Burrell said:
Warning, the following is personal opinion and not everyone will share this view.

The theory of being inline with the drilling axis works well when you can get you body inline with the drill.  This works very well on the small size of the CXS but.....on the larger C drills I find it to be more of a liability than asset in some situations..........      

Good point Brice, I never thought of that.  Jeez, just when I thought I had it all figured out on which to buy, you got me back on the fence again!

Don't take my word for it.  Go to a dealer a try out both types of Festool drills in person, and remember, you've got 30 days to decide if you've made the right choice for the type of work you do.
 
I'll try them tomorrow at JLC Providence.  when I return.  Most of my work will be at bench level but like you say, i have 30 days to try.  Thanks for the reminder.
 
Brice, After taking another look at them both with your thoughts in mind, I totally see your point. I can't believe I'm saying this but I'm going with the T handle. Thanks bro!
 
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