DIY Kapex Crown Stops/Table Extensions

[itasor]

I picked up a Kapex as soon as they went on sale February 1st, but I just couldn't see spending $200 more on the Festool crown stops/table extensions. For around $30, I made these DIY crown stops using Incra T-Track and some 3/4" and 1/4" poplar I had from another project. If you had to buy it all, it would be around $50-60 with enough Incra T-Track left to build some longer extension wings!

I got the Incra T-Track from Amazon, as I couldn't find any local sources: http://amzn.to/1Hqj3ba

No specific plans, as you can customize them to the size you need. I made mine 5.5" wide and just the standard width of the 1x8 deep. Any questions, let me know!

 

[overanalyze]

Awesome!! Great video! Thanks for sharing.

 

[itasor]

Awesome!! Great video! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks! I forgot to explain something -- the idea of the separate wedge, shim, and table extension is because it's a cheap and simple way to get the table extension perfectly flush with the Kapex. Just keep sanding down the shim and test fitting until perfect. If you didn't glue it all, you could even take it apart and sand the shim to fine tune the fit.

I was a little worried about how secure and level they would be once tightened down, but no issues there. Very secure and though they *very slightly* pull upwards from level when tightened down excessively, clamping the board across them for the crown stops brings them back to perfectly level.

 

[overanalyze]

I copied this idea from someone else here. It would work very well with your setup.

I have the Multiblades adapters with the t-track.

 

[JZ Bowmannz]

Awesome!! Great video! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks! I forgot to explain something -- the idea of the separate wedge, shim, and table extension is because it's a cheap and simple way to get the table extension perfectly flush with the Kapex. Just keep sanding down the shim and test fitting until perfect. If you didn't glue it all, you could even take it apart and sand the shim to fine tune the fit.

I was a little worried about how secure and level they would be once tightened down, but no issues there. Very secure and though they *very slightly* pull upwards from level when tightened down excessively, clamping the board across them for the crown stops brings them back to perfectly level.

That's great creation!

Would you mind to take a picture of the left side of the wing? I did the same thing with all wood, but couldn't get the left side to work properly, because the angle transfer device has a plastic housing that is in the way of the clamp.

[attachthumb=1]

[attachthumb=2]

Maybe I have to copy you on the aluminum angle. And you are right, when tighten them down, they do go up. The adjustable clamp under the wing is a great idea.

Thanks. JZ

 

[itasor]

I can take a picture tomorrow, but it works exactly the same on both sides. The aluminum 1/16" 1"x1" angle works perfect with the 3/4" (1") poplar. It leaves makes just enough of a "lip" that it doesn't bottom out in the groove. Even the on left side where the miter finder is, there is still the same little groove for the aluminum angle to "hook" in. I think the difference is that the aluminum is thin enough (buy the 1/16" thick kind, not 1/8") to get into both grooves, where (from your pictures) it looks like your wood latches have a thicker part. The worst part about the aluminum angle is that you only need like 5-6", but have to buy 3 or 4 feet.  [big grin] More for other projects I guess...

 

[Stoli]

I got a little queasy with the hand placement during the trenching cuts...

 

[JZ Bowmannz]

I can take a picture tomorrow, but it works exactly the same on both sides. The aluminum 1/16" 1"x1" angle works perfect with the 3/4" (1") poplar. It leaves makes just enough of a "lip" that it doesn't bottom out in the groove. Even the on left side where the miter finder is, there is still the same little groove for the aluminum angle to "hook" in. I think the difference is that the aluminum is thin enough (buy the 1/16" thick kind, not 1/8") to get into both grooves, where (from your pictures) it looks like your wood latches have a thicker part. The worst part about the aluminum angle is that you only need like 5-6", but have to buy 3 or 4 feet.  [big grin] More for other projects I guess...

Thanks for the help! I'll modify the left side with your idea. I think I have some left over 1/16" angle somewhere. The right side is pretty good so far.

 

[Rob-GB]

I got a little queasy with the hand placement during the trenching cuts...

Why?
If the red line hits your digits you move them before pressing the trigger thus saving having lots of red splatter to clean up later  ;D

Rob..... going back to my cad work now  [wink]

 

[Stoli]

I got a little queasy with the hand placement during the trenching cuts...

Why?
If the red line hits your digits you move them before pressing the trigger thus saving having lots of red splatter to clean up later  ;D

Rob..... going back to my cad work now  [wink]

For a normal cut I wouldn't mind, and have violated the hands free zone myself.  I guess I don't have enough experience with the trenching operation to ensure the piece won't somehow catch and twist and bring my hand into the blade.

 

[Rob-GB]

I got a little queasy with the hand placement during the trenching cuts...

Why?
If the red line hits your digits you move them before pressing the trigger thus saving having lots of red splatter to clean up later  ;D

Rob..... going back to my cad work now  [wink]

For a normal cut I wouldn't mind, and have violated the hands free zone myself.  I guess I don't have enough experience with the trenching operation to ensure the piece won't somehow catch and twist and bring my hand into the blade.

Ahhh! The mistake to be made is grip too hard on the workpiece and hang on no matter what...that usually ends in tears.The other is to rush it and force the tool to try and work harder than it ought to. However, If things start to go wrong let go with BOTH hands, the wood and tooling is cheaper to replace or repair than you. I ought to justify my thoughts a bit here...I do a dry run with anything that I suspect is worrisome, if I feel it would be detrimental to my person after that then I invent a plan 'B' or ask someone else to do it  ;D ( I have never asked someone else to do a job I was not prepared to do myself, including wheelbarrowing aggregate 200 yards from where it could be tipped, to the jobsite; midsummer in Crete. The younger guys quit complaining after an hour of me doing the shovelling + 'barrowing whilst they had been taking turns ) ...............back to cadding out door designs

Rob

 

[downtheroad]

I got a little queasy with the hand placement during the trenching cuts...

Why?
If the red line hits your digits you move them before pressing the trigger thus saving having lots of red splatter to clean up later  ;D

Rob..... going back to my cad work now  [wink]

For a normal cut I wouldn't mind, and have violated the hands free zone myself.  I guess I don't have enough experience with the trenching operation to ensure the piece won't somehow catch and twist and bring my hand into the blade.

Ahhh! The mistake to be made is grip too hard on the workpiece and hang on no matter what...that usually ends in tears.The other is to rush it and force the tool to try and work harder than it ought to. However, If things start to go wrong let go with BOTH hands, the wood and tooling is cheaper to replace or repair than you. I ought to justify my thoughts a bit here...I do a dry run with anything that I suspect is worrisome, if I feel it would be detrimental to my person after that then I invent a plan 'B' or ask someone else to do it  ;D ( I have never asked someone else to do a job I was not prepared to do myself, including wheelbarrowing aggregate 200 yards from where it could be tipped, to the jobsite; midsummer in Crete. The younger guys quit complaining after an hour of me doing the shovelling + 'barrowing whilst they had been taking turns ) ...............back to cadding out door designs

Rob

FastCap just posted this Youtube video on a new product addressing these situations.

10 Million Dollar Stick

 

[iamnothim]

That is one impressive video of an amazing set of crown stops.  You nailed them, they're perfect.
Well done!!

If only I owned a Kapex.

 

[itasor]

Wow, the FastCap product is a good idea.

I guess everyone is comfortable with their fingers a different distance from the blade...I didn't even feel or notice it was as close as it appears in the video.  [smile] The trenching was done very slowly and carefully (the video is at 4x or 8x speed, so it looks rushed). The laser definitely does provide a better sense of a "safe zone" and I've noticed the Kapex's soft start means the saw head doesn't jerk around when starting the blade like it does on my Dewalt, so it's much easier be careful.

Thanks for all the comments! I've never made a woodworking video before, so this was just sort of a "test".

 

[iamnothim]

Wow, the FastCap product is a good idea.

I guess everyone is comfortable with their fingers a different distance from the blade...I didn't even feel or notice it was as close as it appears in the video.  [smile] The trenching was done very slowly and carefully (the video is at 4x or 8x speed, so it looks rushed). The laser definitely does provide a better sense of a "safe zone" and I've noticed the Kapex's soft start means the saw head doesn't jerk around when starting the blade like it does on my Dewalt, so it's much easier be careful.

Thanks for all the comments! I've never made a woodworking video before, so this was just sort of a "test".

But you've made a lot of other videos, right?
If not you are a prodigy.
Amazing.