Does anyone know if the Rapid Clamp will work simultaneously with the FS-WA..

[Econoline]

Does anyone know if the Rapid Clamp (489790) will work simultaneously with the FS-WA Angle Stop (577040), or the FS-WA (205229)?

 

[guybo]

hi, i use it for long rips ,you do have to go to the oppsite end and tighten

 

[FestitaMakool]

In short, no.
It relies on the t-track under the guide rail and it will interfere with both angle attachments.

Edit: Didn’t think of using only the handle like Guybo..  [big grin]
Consider the “L” one if used as intended. That handle swings to the left and does not interfere with the cut line, unless you are left handed or use it like Guybo here.
I got the “R” one, and want the “L” one..

 

[Econoline]

Understood, thanks one and all. Anyone know of a light-weight, light-duty plastic version of a track square?
I'm not going to cut against it, just for reference.
E

 

[mino]

Understood, thanks one and all. Anyone know of a light-weight, light-duty plastic version of a track square?
I'm not going to cut against it, just for reference.
E

Not exist and cannot exist (an be trully square to be more exact). Plastics warp heavily with temperature so once you go big it is tricky (uneconomical) to have it retain shape.

You best bet is to make one from ply. Would still be light and can be made more stable/accurate than a plastic one for peanuts.

Just use the tried-and-true 3-4-5 method from ancient Egypt to get a (big) square angle on a ply sheet, then cut off as big a square you want.

I did it like this:
- first chose a "starting point" A - where my square angle will be, put a small nail in it
- then measured a point B generally along the long edge of the ply 1600 mm from the starting point and marked it (with putting a small nail in it
- then measured a tentative position C1 for a point C along the shorter edge 1200 mm from the starting point - approximately, just marked it (no nail yet)
- then measured a tentative position C2 for a point C as a distance of 2000 mm from point B and as close as possible to C1
- repeat adjusting position of tentative C# until it is precisely 1200 from A and 2000 from B, put nail there now, that is your C point
- cross-check the distances are indeed 1200/1600/2000 exactly
- make a cut with a tracksaw along the A-B line (cutting along whole sheet)
- make a cut with a tracksaw along the A-C line (again cutting along whole sheet)
- now we got a precise square where point A once was, all we need to do is arbitrarilly cut-off as big a sqaure we want/need

Notes:
Ideally, you would use a huge Compass, but most people would not have one big-enough, so a Class 1 tape measure used per above it was for me.

The precision of the procedure is limited to the ratio of your point-placement imprecision to the distances between points ABC. The bigger the distances, the higher precision. So you want to "create the square" useing whole sheet, even while you will use only small part of the edge for the actual square.

 

[squall_line]

[member=61254]mino[/member], I think the 2000 and 1600 lines should say "(5x400mm)" and "(4x400mm)" respectively...

 

[mino]

[member=61254]mino[/member], I think the 2000 and 1600 lines should say "(5x400mm)" and "(4x400mm)" respectively...

Thanks ... started with the long edge at a nice round 2400 when drawing it and then realized one cannot fit 1800 mm across a sheet ... at least the sizes are proper.

When I was doing mine, I actually went with max-available-cross-width that was a multiple of 3 /in mm/ ... every thousand counts. Right?

[smile]