Domino Connectors Exterior. Railings.

[tut789]

I am rebuilding a deck and railings, probably in cedar. I was wondering if domino connectors could be used to join the sections/panels of railings to the posts. This would allow a panel to be removed and replaced if there were any damage, without needing to remove the whole railing system.

Are the connectors exterior rated? Has anybody tried these outside.

Also did Festool get rid of the their deck fasteners? I was just curious how they worked.

 

[Vtshopdog]

Get the Sipo version of domino tenons, they are for exterior use.
Here is an example:
https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/494873---d-10x5085-mau#Overview

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

Are the connectors exterior rated? Has anybody tried these outside.

Also did Festool get rid of the their deck fasteners? I was just curious how they worked.

Not for exterior use as supplied, but there might be a workaround:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/domino-connectors-outdoor-applications/

One of the posters mentioned Owatrol Oil. I've used Fluid Film on metal tools, and it shines in terms of rust prevention!

 

[peter halle]

So if I read this correctly, you want to use the Festool connector system to hold railing panels in between supporting posts.

You want them removable for the future.

I don't see this as a longterm solution.  The connectors have rotatable parts and also depend on the fact that there are supplemental dominoes (Sipo would be the most appropriate).

But, without going thru The whole dynamics of code approved, longevity of the fasteners, etc., if you need those other dominos for strength - it won't work.  You can't slide that panel in and out with the protrusions.

If I have missed something please let me know.

Good luck!

Peter

 

[Cheese]

I've done in-fill panels for a sun deck but I don't think you want to use the Festool D8/50 connectors for that purpose. First off the panels would need to be a minimum of 12 mm thick to work with the 8 mm connectors. In-fill panels are typically only 1/8" to 1/4" thick, certainly not structural in nature but rather just a safety item to prevent things/people from accidentally falling through the opening.

I've used both 1/4" thick hardboard and 1/4" cedar lattice with #10-24 threaded rod to secure the panels. The panels needed to be removed for snow removal from the deck during the winter months.

 

[tut789]

You understood what I am trying to achieve, but you are right the locating dominos would prevent removal and it sounds like the KD connector is not going to be strong enough, or acceptable to the inspectors ( I am nor cal ).

Sounds like I have to come up with another solution for a removal railing panel.

I looked at ZipBolt who now have an epoxy coated connector for exterior use, but reviews indicate that they fail to tighten and are not strong enough for a railing that is > 6ft above grade.

Thanks.

So if I read this correctly, you want to use the Festool connector system to hold railing panels in between supporting posts.

You want them removable for the future.

I don't see this as a longterm solution.  The connectors have rotatable parts and also depend on the fact that there are supplemental dominoes (Sipo would be the most appropriate).

But, without going thru The whole dynamics of code approved, longevity of the fasteners, etc., if you need those other dominos for strength - it won't work.  You can't slide that panel in and out with the protrusions.

If I have missed something please let me know.

Good luck!

Peter

 

[guybo]

Hi, you might lok @Knapp connectors like these

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Hi, you might lok @Knapp connectors like these

They have all kinds of cool stuff! I had never heard of them, thanks guybo

 

[tut789]

Hi, you might lok @Knapp connectors like these

Thanks. I'll take a look.

 

[Cheese]

For the sun deck floating in-fill panels I installed, I just fabricated my own fasteners. I took some 1/4-20 threaded stainless rod and put a 90° bend in the end to form it into a "L". Then I took a stainless flat washer and tack welded it to the short end. So the short "L" end with the welded washer is installed in the in-fill panel and secured with another flat washer and an acorn nut. While the long end of the bolt is installed and secured into the railing post. This allowed about a 3"-4" gap around the entire panel that permitted air flow in the summer across the deck. With no airflow on a hot day the deck can become unusable.

To remove a panel just remove the 4 acorn nuts, make sure the panels are numbered and the up orientation is marked to make reinstallation simple when several panels are removed.

This is what the bolt looked like except it obviously had threads on both ends.

[attachimg=1]