Domino DF 700 XL Recommended Domino Spacing

[SplinterBound]

It is obvious that you can put domino's anywhere you would like.  However, is there a chart? or recommended spacing that suggests for each size domino?  I am sure there are a few people out there who have been using domino's for a while and have had success with their spacing.  The spacing would be based upon strength of joint.
    I did read the manual and do see the recommended stop pins which can alter your pin to center distance.  Which would work with the spacing that the pins can create.

 

[jarbroen]

Festool provides recommendations, I think it's in the manual.  It's something like 2x the thickness of the domino between mortises.
This would apply more to solid wood joints rather than plywood.

You'll find tons of useful posts if you look for threads on the topic.  Plenty of experienced users sharing their tips and tricks on domino size/spacing.

If you post more specific questions on a particular project you'll be likely to get some good answers.

 

[Birdhunter]

As a longtime user (not an expert), I think spacing isn’t all that important. For panel glue up, the tenons just provide alignment. I use an 8” spacing. No rational, just feels right. For strength, I go with. 4-6” spacing. Again, it feels right. I use the same spacing for all size tenons. Seems to work.

 

[SplinterBound]

Festool provides recommendations, I think it's in the manual.  It's something like 2x the thickness of the domino between mortises.
This would apply more to solid wood joints rather than plywood.

You'll find tons of useful posts if you look for threads on the topic.  Plenty of experienced users sharing their tips and tricks on domino size/spacing.

If you post more specific questions on a particular project you'll be likely to get some good answers.

Yes, I did read thru manual and saw that recommendation.  But will have to search some more.

 

[SplinterBound]

As a longtime user (not an expert), I think spacing isn’t all that important. For panel glue up, the tenons just provide alignment. I use an 8” spacing. No rational, just feels right. For strength, I go with. 4-6” spacing. Again, it feels right. I use the same spacing for all size tenons. Seems to work.

I have seen 6" as one of the recommendations on a long piece.  But was wondering if there was a more scientific answer regarding strength and distance.  But maybe it doesn't really matter all that much unless you are jumping on the piece of furniture??

 

[Birdhunter]

I once made a king size bed using 12mm tenons at 8” intervals. At that time, the young couple only had one kid, but he was very active. The bed was a trampoline for him. Years later, the bed is rock solid. The solid full sized headboard used 8mm tenons at 10” intervals just for alignment. It’s still solid.

All the. Wood was quarter sawn. White oak. Beautiful stuff!

 

[ChuckM]

The lateral spacing depends on factors such as wood, joinery and purpose, which is to say that there isn't one single rule.

For edge jointing on long flat boards, 6" to 10" are fine, but less spacing or more dominoes may be needed if there're more high/low spots to cover. Edge jointing in fact can be done without any dominoes or dowels or biscuits if the mating pieces are properly prepared. I use just glue and cauls (wooden or steel) for straightforward panel glue-ups.

The desire to have a very tight joint is also a factor, such as in a miter joint.

If in doubt, err on the safe side, and put a few more here and there provided there's room. A dry-run will ensure that you can handle the glue-up.

Enjoy the domino machine. Once mastered, it'll allow you to do a lot of things without cutting one single M&T or dado. I sold my mortiser soon after the acquisition of the DF500. The only time a dado set may be used is when I need to do a sliding dovetail.

 

[SplinterBound]

The lateral spacing depends on factors such as wood, joinery and purpose, which is to say that there isn't one single rule.

For edge jointing on long flat boards, 6" to 10" are fine, but less spacing or more dominoes may be needed if there're more high/low spots to cover. Edge jointing in fact can be done without any dominoes or dowels or biscuits if the mating pieces are properly prepared. I use just glue and cauls (wooden or steel) for straightforward panel glue-ups.

The desire to have a very tight joint is also a factor, such as in a miter joint.

If in doubt, err on the safe side, and put a few more here and there provided there's room. A dry-run will ensure that you can handle the glue-up.

Enjoy the domino machine. Once mastered, it'll allow you to do a lot of things without cutting one single M&T or dado. I sold my mortiser soon after the acquisition of the DF500. The only time a dado set may be used is when I need to do a sliding dovetail.

Thanks for the response.  I think I will go with the 6" rule on panel lengths.  And the typical pre pegged(domino fence) to edge spacing on the ends of the panels.