Done with phenolic plates...

spikfot

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Joined
Jan 28, 2008
Messages
448
I have 2 from a well known brand and have had problems with sag on both. The 2nd one has never been mounted in a router- sitting in my shop for the past year in the box. I pulled it out and decided to set a straightedge on it and there it was- light shining through. I can place a razorblade in the gap in the mid-span. (can't find my feelers).
next time it will be aluminum, and I won't miss that nasty smell....
 
Lee Valley makes a swell steel router table, no plate needed (just a small plastic screw on bushing that goes around the bit.  Never had any flatness issues once I switched.
 
No reason to replace your router table just because your plate is not flat.  An aluminum plate will correct your issue.
 
William, are you sure the gap you see shouldn't be pointed up. The weight of the router would pull it back flat?
 
William Herrold said:
I have 2 from a well known brand and have had problems with sag on both. The 2nd one has never been mounted in a router- sitting in my shop for the past year in the box. I pulled it out and decided to set a straightedge on it and there it was- light shining through. I can place a razorblade in the gap in the mid-span. (can't find my feelers).
next time it will be aluminum, and I won't miss that nasty smell....

I bought the PRL from woodpeckers and its not given me a bit of trouble in over 6 years.  Made like a tank and engineered to take it.  I've got a  PC7518 in it. 
 
sroxberg said:
William, are you sure the gap you see shouldn't be pointed up. The weight of the router would pull it back flat?

No, the gap is in the middle of the top, and as I said, it is new in the box.
 
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