Drill Press Table

derekcohen

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Joined
Jun 22, 2008
Messages
933
A couple of weeks ago I took advantage of a Black Friday sale and purchased a Nova Voyager drill press for a great discount. This replaced a Taiwanese model I had for 25 years. Yeah, I know this machine is OTT, but it is an amazing tool. For those who are not familiar with the Voyager, it is a computerised, variable speed drill press with a 2 hp direct drive motor (240v). I have already used it to determine the ideal speed for a selection of forstner bits, and then drill to a preset depth, and stop automatically at that depth.

Putting it together was .. uh  ... a little scary. The motor section is extremely heavy, and I was concerned that I would drop it in my usual clumsy fashion. Anyway, it was put together without mishap. A Nova fence was one of the freebees thrown in ...

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Nova recommend that one not use a mobile base, however I need to do so since my machines occupy one side of a double garage, and some machines need to be mobile. The drill press is one. The ideal mobile base is as low to the floor as possible. A low centre of gravity is more stable, but also you do not want to raise the drill press up too much as the controls and computer screen may be moved out of your comfort zone.

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Steel mobile base on lockable wheels ...

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This post is more about the table I built for the drill press. Some may be able to use the ideas here. Most of the ideas are old hat, but there are a couple of novel ideas. My old drill press  used nothing more exciting than a piece of plywood over the cast iron table. Somehow it was sufficient, although the work holding sucked ... and this is what I wanted to address here. Plus, the sacrificial board became chewed up and useless very quickly, and I had an idea to improve on this.

I was not crazy about the cast iron table as a work surface. For a top I found in my local salvage yard a 18" x 25" UHMW slab 30mm (1-1/4") thick. This is about as perfect a table top as one could get - it is very resistant to damage, and yet will not damage wood placed on it.

It planes without any tearout :)

DP13.jpg


The first task was to dado in aluminium tracks for the fence and hold downs, and then to create a circular mortice for a sacrificial section ...

DP1a.jpg


Using a power router to waste UHMW is an interesting experience - lots of plastic string everywhere, and dust control was not working well. The circular recess was time consuming and finicky. The template began as a 2" forstner cut hole. This was then progressively widened to 4" using a rebate and a flush cut bit in the router table. Finally, the template was used with a pattern cutter to create the circular recess, above.

The circular sacrificial disks are 1/2" thick MDF. I found it quicker to saw them fractionally oversize on the bandsaw, and then turn them on the lathe ...

DP2a.jpg


Here now is the basic table ...

DP3a.jpg


There is a cut out at the rear for the winder ...

DP4a.jpg


Now why did I choose a circular sacrificial section? I have seen many drill press tables using square sections. I cannot recall seeing any with round disks (unless it was dedicated to a sander, but that is not the same thing). The drill bit is not centred on the square. Instead, it is moved to the rear of the square. That way one can rotate the disk four times after it becomes holed. My objection to this design was that one only obtained four points, and as soon as one section became holed, it could no longer back up the drill.

Now a circular disk, on the other hand, has an infinite number of positions (infinite until the circle is completed). Just rotate as much as you need. More work to make, but better in the long run.

DP5a.jpg


Here is the finished table ...

DP6a.jpg


The Nova fence came with those twisty levers. They are useless ... difficult to achieve the ideal tautness and hard to get to behind the fence. I replaced them with the long knobs. These needed to be cut down by 3/4" to avoid fowling the downfeed handles.

DP7a.jpg


The tracks not only hold the fence, but also Incra hold downs ...

DP8a.jpg


... and even the Micro Jig clamps for taller boards ...

DP9a.jpg


I hope there is something you can use.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Nice job, they are a real nice piece of kit.

I made a mobile base for mine, and a melamine table. I replaced the table lift crank handle with a wheel, as I wanted a full width table. Added a Wixey laser and an Albrecht chuck.
Well pleased.

Enjoy yours  [thumbs up]
 
Hi JJ

I shall be adding a Wixey laser (ordered), and I have also another laser to install, one with a long, straight line. This is to aid in aligning angles for staked legs. If you need to add a light, a LED book light works well.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 
"a LED book light works well."

An LED sewing machine light works well too, and may be brighter
than a reading light. Many also have magnetic bases. You can find
them for
 
Nice job on the table Derek. The Wixey laser is really nice. A ton better than the earlier generation manufactured from someone else. That was trash.

Also a fan of Albrecht keyless chucks. The UHMW makes a great table material. It’s tough to kill.

I also did an offset table insert, however it was square which only gave me 4 turns. I really like the circular geometry, it just makes sense.

Aesthetically I love the black/silver contrast.  That alone is enough to dumpster dive for the UHMW.
 
Hi Derek, Great job with that drill press table! I did the same with my drill press table. Round inserts as sacrificial backers made more sense to me as well. I wanted to add an option for drum sanding, so if had to make inserts for inserts[1]  [blink]. I does work great though.

[1] I posted some photos in this thread that show what I mean with that.

 
derekcohen said:
Hi JJ

I shall be adding a Wixey laser (ordered), and I have also another laser to install, one with a long, straight line. This is to aid in aligning angles for staked legs. If you need to add a light, a LED book light works well.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek, thanks, I’ll take a look at the LED book lights.
 
Rich Kline said:
Thanks!  Is it similar to Phenolic? 

No, two different animals. Phenolic is comprised of layers of paper and a resin.

UHMW is polyethylene plastic. Very slippery and very durable but not as stiff as phenolic.
 
Cheese said:
I also did an offset table insert, however it was square which only gave me 4 turns. I really like the circular geometry, it just makes sense.

Cheese, I have seen some pics of yours in one of the Voyager drillpress threads, and it looks like a Woodpeckers table. Is that right?  I ordered one being delivered today. If so, did you just offset it by an inch or so to be able to allow the rotation of the filler plate?  I assume the Woodpecker is centered on the filler.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
08G8V8 said:
Cheese, I have seen some pics of yours in one of the Voyager drillpress threads, and it looks like a Woodpeckers table. Is that right?  I ordered one being delivered today. If so, did you just offset it by an inch or so to be able to allow the rotation of the filler plate?  I assume the Woodpecker is centered on the filler.

Yes it is a Woodpecker table, I like it a lot. For me one of the best features is the short fence but with 6-8 stainless stops attached. If doing multiple pieces that have the holes in the same place just set the stops and each piece will be the same. On long pieces I will work left to right, rotate the piece 180º and then work right to left.

[attachimg=1]

I started with the hole in the center of the insert, then offset the square insert by about 1/2" and now I'm thinking about making an adapter so I can use a circular offset insert.

The DP3 fence is also nice to have. This summer I needed to bore holes in 2" PVC pipe. The holes needed to be centered and located at the same distance on all of the pieces. I clamped a stop to the DP3 fence and then clamped each PVC pipe to the fence and bored the holes. Easier, faster and more accurate than placing each item in a vise.

[attachimg=2]
 

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I ordered the number 2 package with the knuckle clamps and 2 plastic flip stops. I already have a couple of the metal flip stops. I almost ordered the DP3 fence, but I ordered extra angle extrusion from 8020 on my order that is coming this coming week. I have some 3x3x.25 angle that I can make a fence from.

I will be offsetting my table when I set it up this weekend.

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Cheese said:
08G8V8 said:
Cheese, I have seen some pics of yours in one of the Voyager drillpress threads, and it looks like a Woodpeckers table. Is that right?  I ordered one being delivered today. If so, did you just offset it by an inch or so to be able to allow the rotation of the filler plate?  I assume the Woodpecker is centered on the filler.

I started with the hole in the center of the insert, then offset the square insert by about 1/2" and now I'm thinking about making an adapter so I can use a circular offset insert.

I assume you plan on just routing to the minimum diameter to remove the square and make it round at the same depth. That sounds like a good feature, so I will follow your lead down the road, but will just use it offset slightly for now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
DISCLAIMER: For anyone who doesn't know, I work for Woodpeckers.

The circular inserts look like a pretty nifty feature, and we've contemplated them a time or two...BUT...

Everyone reading this is equipped to make square replacement inserts in a moments notice. There are far fewer who are equipped to make round inserts, and even if you have the stuff, they take more time and are harder to make fit perfectly.

Every time I have an oddball scrap of ply or MDF, it gets cut up into insert squares instead of going into the trash. I have a stack by my DP. Always have fresh support.
 
Very nice Derek !

I did a similar thing with the Nova fence using a rockler drill table with t-tracks, knobs, and a square sacrificial plate.  But I do like your design much better.

Just curious, how did you mount your table to the existing Nova table?

 
Why not use a round insert in the existing square hole?  You could use the four open corners as an insert lifting/rotating access point.
 
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