ES150/5 pad brake (collar) becomes hot and starts to melt

[Nijn]

Hi,
I got a ET150/5 grinder, that was out of service due to carbon bushes worn out.
I replaced them and the motor runs fine.

Now when I put back the sanding pad and let it run, the collar/ pad brake becomes hot and starts to melt.
Does anyone have an idea why this happens?

note: When the machine is stopped I can spin the sanding pad by hand and it goes round very well.

Thanks,

Nijn

 

[Nigel]

Hello Nijn,

I had this happen with my RO 150. At the time Festool France were ignoring my requests for help and I was desperately in need of it so I completely dismantled it.

The problem was the orbital movement had stopped completely and the pad was spinning in a circular only direction. this causes a hotspot on the pad and the collar which start to smoke.

You can check it by trying to sand - you will score the wood very easily like an angle grinder.

The cause was a dried up ' excentric'  bearing. Once cleaned out and re-packed with new grease it works fine.

Hope it helps.

 

[semenza]

Hi Nijn,

  Welcome to the FOG!  [smile]

If you were in NA I would suggest that you call the Festool USA service number , but  ..........................

Wish I could help.

Seth

 

[Nijn]

Nigel,

Thanks for your reaction.
The pad has got an orbital movement. But the pad does touches the collat always on the same spot.
I will inspect the bearing as it does not go round as it should.
 
regards,

Nijn

 

[Nijn]

Nigel, you were right on spot.
The bearing got stuck due to dust that got inside.
I had success in removing the bearing's dust sealing cover and then cleaned the bearing.

One problem, I cannot put back the dust sealing cover without removing the nut to hold the pad.
Does anyone knows how to remove it or has a tip?
Thanks,

Nijn

 

[Nigel]

Hi Nijn,

I wish I could help further but I only have the RO 150 which is a different assembly. I had to take the whole thing apart from the top. In other words splitting the the plastic sides off and then working from top and bottom to get the driveshaft apart [if I remember correctly]. However your model may be completely different.

Good luck

Nigel

 

[Nijn]

Removing the bearing(s)

needed tools:

- long bolt M8 + nut + 1 big washer M8
- 2 keys M13
- 1 Key M17
- 1 Hexagon Socket M32

Steps:
1) put the nut on to the bolt and turn it in
2) put the washer over the bolt
3) put the bolt through the socket
4) turn the bold into the nut of the machine, use the M17 key to hold the nut.
Note :: the bolt need to be long enough so you can still put the M17 key to hold the nut.
5) Turn the nut back out and keep the bolt still. Here two M13 keys are needed.
6) Both bearings will come out at once.

Result:

Bearings:

 

[Nijn]

Yesterday I bought a new set of bearings ( 6001 2Z + 6001 2RS) and had the intention to press them in but I can just put them in the hole by hand so without too much force.
I would guess that the bearings should fit in the hole medium drive.
Back to the old bearings. One of them needs more force to push it in. The other one has the same feel like the new ones.
I will have to glue them in I guess.
Other suggestions?

Thanks Nijn

 

[Nijn]

The machine works well again.

To make the story complete:
I glued the bearings in with some Loctite 648.
I hope that I don't have to remove them later again because that will be not an easy job...

Regards,

Nijn