Extending Guide Rails

[BruceB]

Now that I have a TS55, 55" and 106" guide rail I realize that they are both not long eneough to plunge the saw before starting the cut (per Rick Christopherson's manual) and still have eneough rail at the other end to fully guide the saw thru the cut on 4'x8' sheet goods.

So my plan is to buy a 32" rail with 4 connectors and cut a couple of 10" long pieces off it to add to the 55" and 106" rails (total cost of $125).

Would it be better to put the extensions at the starting end or the finishing end ? Does this make sense ?

Bruce

 

[semenza]

Hi,

I used to have the 106" and found that it was just enough (with out the hose deflector ) if positioned carefully. I always found the 55" to be a bit too short.  I moved up to the 118" for easier positioning and it is also handy for rough cut "8 ft" boards. I have a 55" that I use for cuts less than 48". But I go with the 75" for 48" cuts.

In any case.....  

I would put a single extension at the end of the cut. That way the blade will have already done most of the cut before the saw travels onto the extension.  And the start will all be on the main rail.  However if they are aligned well it shouldn't matter too much which end.

You could also go with extending both ends so that at least a portion of the cut would be made with the saw on the main rail at both ends.

But, if you have had them for less than 30 days an exchange for longer would be the way to go.  [smile]

OR, keep the 55" (because  it would still be handy), sell the 106". Then buy a 118" and 75", rather than spending the money on the 32".  

OR, Cut the 106" into two custom length rails, and buy the 118"    ???

Lots of options  [cool]

Seth

 

[RDMuller]

I was going to do the same thing, but I became so attached to the 32" rail that I did not cut it in half, but rather move it from the 55 to the 105 when I need to extend them for full sheets.  A short extension is definitely needed to really use the parallel guides and the parallel guide extensions when working with 48 x 96 material, and even more so when using the 49 x 97 commercial materials.

 

[BruceB]

Thanks for the reply's and advice. I've decided to buy a 55" rail and cut two 8"-10" sections for extensions leaving me a usable leftover rail of 37".

[big grin]

Cheers,

Bruce

 

[RDMuller]

Brilliant

 

[Steve R]

Remember to not butt the two rails together. You want to leave a little gap as this will let the connectors do their job of aligning the rails.

I learned this at Festool training last month here in St. Paul, MN. I had always before let them touch. Festool said that they don't guarantee that the end cuts are perfect 90's on the rail.  [eek]  I don't know that it has ever been an issue for me but.... I now do it the Festool way....  [big grin]

Cheers,
Steve

 

[fidelfs]

Remember to not butt the two rails together. You want to leave a little gap as this will let the connectors do their job of aligning the rails.

I learned this a Festool training last month here in St. Paul, MN. I had always before let them touch. Festool said that they don't guarantee that the end cuts are perfect 90's on the rail.  [eek]  I don't know that it has ever been an issue for me but.... I now do it the Festool way....  [big grin]

Cheers,
Steve

I really like when we share knowlege like this one.  I will join my rails this way from now on.

Thanks Steve

 

[jtwood]

Remember to not butt the two rails together. You want to leave a little gap as this will let the connectors do their job of aligning the rails.

I learned this at Festool training last month here in St. Paul, MN. I had always before let them touch. Festool said that they don't guarantee that the end cuts are perfect 90's on the rail.  [eek]  I don't know that it has ever been an issue for me but.... I now do it the Festool way....  [big grin]

Cheers,
Steve

That is terrific information.  Thanks for that.

 

[Christian A.]

Remember to not butt the two rails together. You want to leave a little gap as this will let the connectors do their job of aligning the rails.

I learned this at Festool training last month here in St. Paul, MN. I had always before let them touch. Festool said that they don't guarantee that the end cuts are perfect 90's on the rail.

Thanks for this helpful information. I wonder why you don't find such important tips in the manuals.

Have a nice weekend,

Christian

 

[Steve R]

I'm glad others find the tip as helpful as I did.

some other tips that came out that day … some I have heard before others I had not … they were….

#1 When clamping a rail down DO NOT put the clamp tight against the wood. If you do you will get a little compression mark where the clamp curves. Keep the clamp ¼ to ½” away from the product it will hold just a well.

#2 Finish Sanding - Always place the sander on the material THEN start it.  ALWAYS LIFT OFF the material before shutting it off.

#3 With the TS saws - never turn the saw off if you have not allowed it to raise out of the cut. As any saw blade may wobble a bit when it slows down and may leave some marks/cuts in the work/product.

 

[monte]

I also find that placing another rail's back edge to the back edge of the rails your connecting in an overlapping manor is helpful for getting a truly straight cut.  ( ESP if your making a  10 to 16 ft cut )

If you don't have a surplus of rails laying about then any other narrow straight stock will do.

 

[danrush]

Using another rail (or any sure straightedge) certainly helps with rail alignment, but for my work flow in the field here's what I do: 

I own a number of rails, and check each one upon purchase for square.  If the end is off,  I then trim off just a hair with my Kapex to true up the ends of the rails.  Now I just snug up the ends when connecting.  I've been using this system for years and never had anything but a truly straight cut.

This system saves me the time and effort of locating a straightedge, lining it up, tightening the connection, and double checking that I did in fact follow the straightedge and not skew the process somehow.  As long as I have a nice tight, clean joint between rails, I am assured of a straight cut.

Dan

 

[monte]

Perrrrrrsonaly,

I prefer the method of leaving a gap of about a credit card between the rails when joining them. I find there is far less of a chance of the ts holding up at the junction of the rails then when butted tightly together. 

So with that method I then double check plumb with another straightedge.