festool automotive polishes

[HowardH]

I was looking at the Australian site and noticed some automotive polishes that look very interesting.  i know its a NAINA issue but since UL doesn't have jurisdiction over a polishing compound, I'm wondering why it isn't available here.  It would seem to be a natural to use with my Rotex 150 and fine sponges.  Has anyone used the stuff and can one order it from a non-US site without potentially triggering a trade war or some such provocation?    

 

[ForumMFG]

If you can find a non-US site to ship it to you there would not be any problem.

 

[Aegwyn11]

Why mess with it? You can get the 3M pro polishing compounds for reasonable prices pretty much all over. I've used them in the past when I used to do custom fiberglass work and they work really good.

http://selector.3m.com/selector/us/en/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarkets/aad_p/viewlist.asp?FAM=Rubbing_Compounds&LL=aad&ITEMLIST=3454,3455,3456,3457,3458,3459,3460,3461,3462,3463,3464,3465,3466,3467,3468,3469&P=

No offense to the Festool stuff, but I'm going to bet you can get the same results out of the 3M compounds at a fraction of the price here in the US.

 

[ForumMFG]

I agree, I detailed cars professionaly for 5 years.  We used a lot of 3M buffing compounds w/ a high speed buffer.  They make great products.

 

[HowardH]

That's good news. Thanks for the heads up!  The rotex does a great job polishing.

 

[Bob Marino]

Howard,

I agree with all the others here - for whatever reason (enviromental??) they are not available here, but there are so many excellent polishes readably available, you are not at a loss.

Bob

 

[ForumMFG]

Bob,

That could possibly be the reason the Festool Polishes are not in the states because we already have a lot of extremely good polishing agents.  If Festool can't make the best product, the won't sell it in the states?

-Dave

 

[ForumMFG]

Bob,

So you use the RO125 to polish your car?  I should try that sometime.  I always used a Makita High speed buffer with variable speed.  It's an awesome buffer and light weight.  Doesn't make your arms tired.  If your like me, If I were to use the RO for buffing my car, I would enjoy a side handle on it.  I've already come into situations where I could have used a side handle on it.  Are there any after market handles or universal handles you can buy to put on the RO125?  I think Festool should have at least put a connection on the RO125 so people could buy the same handle for the RO150 and use it on their RO125.

-Dave

Update:  Bob not Tom =) 

 

[Bob Marino]

Tom,

So you use the RO125 to polish your car?  I should try that sometime.  I always used a Makita High speed buffer with variable speed.  It's an awesome buffer and light weight.  Doesn't make your arms tired.  If your like me, If I were to use the RO for buffing my car, I would enjoy a side handle on it.  I've already come into situations where I could have used a side handle on it.  Are there any after market handles or universal handles you can buy to put on the RO125?  I think Festool should have at least put a connection on the RO125 so people could buy the same handle for the RO150 and use it on their RO125.

-Dave

  I don't know about Tom, but I do use the  RO 125 rather than the RO 150. I know there are many other high speed buffers out there, but for me, with the RO's, there's no need to look elsewhere. But I have never felt the need for the side handle for the 125; Ilike the smaller size. I am not sure about any after market handles for the 125.

Bob

 

[woodshopdemos]

I have had many years of buffing new and used cars. Held the record, I think, for the number of burn through ridges on 55/56 Buicks. I finally did learn a light touch. At that time we used Dupont No 7 buffing compound and diluted it with water 1;1. When I started use of Rotex 150 i paid trip to auto stores and brought home one of everything. Polish with compound by 3M or Mothers seemed to be what I was looking for. Have used them both with success but really have to watch the action...still easy to burn through. I had a new car and saved the old for giving away to local church. But before it went bye bye I used it as practise car. I suggest every one do the same -- find an old car to practise on. If youwant the best test, find a black or at least dark car and go at it...you can make it look brand new if not rusted though.

This use of automotive buffer that I used for buffing out mahogany sink top. I used the Beall buffing system and got a mirror perfect top -- that was 9 years ago (before Festool here). I still have the heavy buffer and like the cotton pads it used but Rotex 150 used now.

When I first got Rotex 150 i did a lot of experimenting. My final process that I found and still use today is the Rotex to 22o grit paper and then changing to soft buffing pad and use the Menzerna system:

At that time, we would go through all the Menzerna grades. I since have found that the first Menzerna is too harsh and I start with the second compound. In any case, no matter what you use, apply the compound to the piece manually (old T shirt works fine). Once evenly spread, use the buffer lightly.

These pages have the  whole process. It was done years ago but still works. polishing technique

 

 

[Les]

John,

Did you have any finish, stain or topcoat, on the piece before you buffed?

 

[woodshopdemos]

Les, in the case of the Koa, no it was bare wood to start.

I prefer to use it in a finish "menu"  typically, 1) sandeind sealer, 2 -glossy polyurethane 4 thin coats with light sandingg (400) between; 3) let cure for 5 days; 4) start buffing sequence ( mentioned above)

This gives you a strong durable finish and high gloss. If you dont want hgh gloss, use satin poly finish but only as last coat - that gives you a sheen but stil has the depth of finish as the glossy.