festool domino and long seam corian

iphacou

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Jul 8, 2015
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any thoughts as to the possibility of using the festool domino to help with vertical top alignment in long run seams of 1/2 inch corian using domi plate attachment?
 
Do you already have the domino?

My Zeta P2 was acquired with the diamond cutter.
One could attached the halves permanently or with a clampX.

The other choices are doweling system and regular biscuits.
 
Bumping this - a friend was asking for a contemporary shelving unit using Corian shelving - has anyone used the Domino to mortise Corian?  I haven’t worked with it.
 
Don't insert any device into the solid surface materials. Murphy's law says an item falling will strike the spot the device is inserted and break the face off of the solid surface material. [eek]

Explain why you want to mortice the Corian please?

Tom
 
Friend saw attached - asked if I could build it.

Thought Corian or similiar might be good for the shelves - crazy?
 

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I'd notch the uprights and inset the shelves.

I'll think on how to attach them or what product to use.

Tom
 
I ask the counter fitters which cutter to use for Corian and they told me carbide.

 
Thinking about how to attach the material to the uprights.

On the bottom, I'd drill straight up and attach the plate with 2 or 3 screws, flip the unit, drill up at a slight angle on the other shelves, counter sink, screws into the uprights from the bottom.

Tom
 
waho6o9 said:
I ask the counter fitters which cutter to use for Corian and they told me carbide.

Carbide works well, saw blades should have the proper rake angle and tooth geometry for solid surface material.

Tom
 
I think more than a mechanical connection (screws).  Dado/rabbet + suitable mechanical fasteners (3M makes some really awesome and versatile adhesives).
 
Naildrivingman said:
I think more than a mechanical connection (screws).  Dado/rabbet + suitable mechanical fasteners (3M makes some really awesome and versatile adhesives).

I was thinking of suggesting VHB or UHB.

There is a member here who’s specialty is plastics. Hopefully they see this thread.

I’m thinking the shelves should be more of a softer polyester. I have polyester plate I use to make cutting boards.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Naildrivingman said:
I think more than a mechanical connection (screws).  Dado/rabbet + suitable mechanical fasteners (3M makes some really awesome and versatile adhesives).

I was thinking of suggesting VHB or UHB.

There is a member here who’s specialty is plastics. Hopefully they see this thread.

I’m thinking the shelves should be more of a softer polyester. I have polyester plate I use to make cutting boards.

Tom
Not familiar with UHB/VHB, but anything that can be fastened with screws and accepts such fasteners like wood, should be considered.  I still feel that ultimate support strength falls into the dado/rabbet primary physical connection category.
 
Naildrivingman said:
tjbnwi said:
Naildrivingman said:
I think more than a mechanical connection (screws).  Dado/rabbet + suitable mechanical fasteners (3M makes some really awesome and versatile adhesives).

I was thinking of suggesting VHB or UHB.

There is a member here who’s specialty is plastics. Hopefully they see this thread.

I’m thinking the shelves should be more of a softer polyester. I have polyester plate I use to make cutting boards.

Tom
Not familiar with UHB/VHB, but anything that can be fastened with screws and accepts such fasteners like wood, should be considered.  I still feel that ultimate support strength falls into the dado/rabbet primary physical connection category.

UHB is 3M Ultra High Bond Tape, VHB is 3M Very High Bond Tape. They are 2 sided tapes that are very aggressive and strong.

Tom
 
If this were my science project...I'd consider small diameter stainless dowel pins epoxied into the Corian and wooden uprights. The problem with the Domino approach (even though the cutters would work) is that you're removing too much material from the Corian.

This piece is designed to be used as an accent piece and is certainly not a bookshelf that will support 100's of pounds of items. This is just conjecture, but I'd assume there'd be less than 15# of stuff on each shelf.

If the Corian used is 1/2" material, which it appears to be, I'd use 1/8" or 3/16" diameter pins. This leaves a lot of material to remain in the Corian so that its strength is not compromised. Shear strength on a 3/16" dowel pin is around 3000#, I'd guess a 1/8" diameter pin would be about half of that.

Dowel pins would be easy to locate in the middle of the Corian thickness...thinking about this a little more, you could probably get by with using 3/32" pins. The best approach is to purchase some scraps and experiment. You may find that the Achilles heal is actually the wooden supports. [big grin]

 
I disagree with some of you on the thickness.

Those shelves look to be 3/4" to me.  I wouldn't even attempt that design with 1/2" thick shelves, especially in Corian.  You're asking for them to sag.

Besides , that looks like a European design , and they are not fond of 13mm.  We see that thickness on side and end panels , but not for shelves.

 
antss said:
I disagree with some of you on the thickness.

Those shelves look to be 3/4" to me.  I wouldn't even attempt that design with 1/2" thick shelves, especially in Corian.  You're asking for them to sag.
They might be fabricated to have a side height of 19 or 20mm, but the maximum thickness of Corian you can buy is 12mm, isn't it?
 
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